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builttospill
Mar 9, 2008, 8:28 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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I've used a BD Spot and a Petzl Tikka in the past and I like (and still have) both. They've served me well for car camping, ice climbing, approaches, etc.
I'm looking for something brighter for times that I'm going to be actually climbing in the dark (climbing rock, not snow or ice where the light is better). I think I read that the Petzl Zoom is the old standard, but I'm not sure if that's still true.
It would need to be significantly brighter than either the Spot or the Tikka to justify the money buying another one. But I would really like one that would make routefinding on harder rock routes (hard by my standards) simple, even in the dark.
Any suggestions for ones to look at?
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marde
Mar 9, 2008, 9:23 PM
Post #2 of 20
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Registered: Sep 3, 2006
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BD icon
petzl myo xp
both are good for climbing at night,
both are brighter than my old zoom and the batteries last way longer
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swaghole
Mar 10, 2008, 12:19 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
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I'll second the Myo XP suggestion. Great lamp, very bright, long lasting, good fit even over helmet. It's 100 times better then my old Zoom. You just can't compare. It's also pretty small and lightweight. Another great headlight is the Tikka XP. Smaller then the Myo XP but still has great output. Both of these come with the diffuser "floodlight" lense or the narrow beam for seeing in the distance.
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coolcat83
Mar 10, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
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i'll third the myo xp, great lamp compact and bright, i keep it in a little pouch on my harness and don't notice it till i need it. i also have a princeton tec apex, crazy bright but heavier and larger than the myo.
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jestering
Mar 10, 2008, 2:11 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2007
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the Princeton Tec Eos is what I use. Super-bright LED, it'll easily shine on trees/rock 300 yards away at night.
http://www.princetontec.com/...&type=&use=3
Also, hella street cred for your user name.
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builttospill
Mar 10, 2008, 4:35 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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Perfect for getting the jump on people during those alpine starts.
Kind of like this one:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Night-Vision-Headlamp---500%2b-lumens-with-/
almost a full pound of headlamp right there.
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crackers
Mar 10, 2008, 4:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2005
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builttospill wrote: Perfect for getting the jump on people during those alpine starts. Kind of like this one: http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Night-Vision-Headlamp---500%2b-lumens-with-/ almost a full pound of headlamp right there.
Yep. I've got an article I've got to post on my blog about making one of those ultimate night vision headlamps versus buying the petzl thing...In a lot of ways, the petzl thing is a pretty good deal.
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go_dyno
Mar 12, 2008, 3:27 AM
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Registered: May 8, 2005
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I work mostly in 3rd world countries in very dangerous environments. I wear a headlamp everyday 9 months out of the year.The only headlamp I will wear is the Petzl Duo with 2 independent light setups and is totally waterproof. You have the LED side with 3 different brightness settings and the Halogen side with a bright focusable beam for shit hits the fan or long throw light. I just took it off 20 minutes ago You can also get rechargeable batteries for them or the model to put the battery pack in a warm pocket in cold environments. Its not the lightest, but has saved my bacon to many times to worry about the few extra ounces. Good Luck!
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coolcat83
Mar 12, 2008, 1:32 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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that petzl ultra is almost 3/4 of a pound. i'm not sure a monster like that is so practical for rock.
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crackers
Mar 12, 2008, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2005
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go_dyno wrote: I work mostly in 3rd world countries in very dangerous environments....
Having spent over five years having fun in the mountains of the world's worst places, I'm sure that you will replace your petzl duo with one of the new Ultra's as soon as you see it. Trust me.
3/4 of a pound? 350 grams? I can deal with it...This thing might not be *practical* for every event, but is super *fun* for some things, like blinding the people looking at you across the room. Literally.
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vegastradguy
Mar 12, 2008, 3:15 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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i've been using this:
http://www.mammutusa.com/...amps_tx1Features.php
single LED for the spot, a pair of 'em for close up stuff. i really like it.
the spot has a 100m throw on it- i used it in Jtree from the ground to help some folks get off from the summit of the blob....
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shimanilami
Mar 12, 2008, 3:30 PM
Post #13 of 20
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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marde wrote: BD icon petzl myo xp both are good for climbing at night, both are brighter than my old zoom and the batteries last way longer
Exactly. And if it needs to fit in your pocket, the Tikka XP is the best.
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petsfed
Mar 12, 2008, 3:30 PM
Post #14 of 20
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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The petzl myo series is really good. I've got an original myo 3 and it is still kicking.
Has BD licked their durability problems yet? Their lamps were crazy lightweight, but I never had one last more than one season before completely shitting the bed on me.
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go_dyno
Mar 14, 2008, 10:35 PM
Post #15 of 20
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
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Cracker
I looked for the "Ultra" and can't find anything, can you give more info please? Thanks!
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gunkiemike
Mar 14, 2008, 11:40 PM
Post #16 of 20
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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go_dyno wrote: Cracker I looked for the "Ultra" and can't find anything, can you give more info please? Thanks!
Scroll up...click link...
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go_dyno
Mar 19, 2008, 3:15 AM
Post #17 of 20
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 193
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Sorry, I just immediately went to the Petzl site and couldn't find it. It looks fantastic, I just hope its waterproof and not just water resistant.
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Alpine07
Mar 20, 2008, 9:50 PM
Post #18 of 20
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Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
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Petzel Tikka XP, bright, long battery life, lightweight, plus a battery meter. myo xp also looks pretty darn nice, havent had a chance to try it out tho.
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sliianna
Aug 23, 2008, 3:07 AM
Post #19 of 20
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Registered: May 24, 2006
Posts: 27
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i use th princeton tec eos- for rock climbing. birghtest lightest headlamp out there without a remote battery pack.
(brighter spot then BD equiv XP)- excellent for multipitch etc
but i am looking to upgrade to something brighter for use during mountaineering- was caught on a ice climb in dark,light was bright but coudl be brighter and wondering about the myo XP. not sure if it wil be brighter- any mountaineers that can comment?petxl ultra doens tlast long enough.
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harpo_the_climber
Aug 24, 2008, 1:18 AM
Post #20 of 20
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Registered: Feb 26, 2005
Posts: 106
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I have a BD Icon, with a 3 watt LED and a dimmer LED. Great performance when it works. I have had mine replaced twice in two years by BD warranty.
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