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definition of a "dyno?"
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Poll: definition of a "dyno?"
a dynamic move in which both feet cut from the rock 36 / 36%
a dynamic move in which all parts of your body cut from the rock 19 / 19%
other 24 / 24%
pancakes 21 / 21%
100 total votes
 

Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 3:27 PM
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definition of a "dyno?"
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ok, my girlfriend and I are in disagreement on this. I say that, any time you throw for something,your feet cut, and your body swings out, that is a dyno. Even if you are keeping a lower hand on the hold, such as this:



it is still a dyno.

My gf, on the other hand, says that only an "all points off" dyno is a true dyno. Anything less is just a deadpoint (I actually say that a deadpoint is any dynamic move in which one or no feet come off)

so, poll up, yo. I'm interested to see the results.


clausti


May 23, 2008, 3:31 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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originally you said your feet didnt have to come off you mutant seabass.


Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 3:34 PM
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backpedaling?

your what's wrong with climbing!


majid_sabet


May 23, 2008, 3:39 PM
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Your GF is upset for something else dude and you are too slow to figure out my man. It is time to let her see the real DYNO


Partner j_ung


May 23, 2008, 3:43 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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I chose "other," because you're both wrong. "Dyno," is short for dynamic movement. Everything from the tiniest pop to to the biggest all-points-off throw is accomplished by generating momentum, riding that momentum to the target hold and then grabbing for it at the deadpoint (in this context when forward progress ends but before gravity takes over), therefore, all of those are "dynoes." This is not a subjective definition. If some fool now chimes in with, "But I was taught that..." then that fool was probably taught by another fool.

I'll allow, though, that in the right context, for example a dyno competition, rather than both of you being wrong, both of of you could be considered right.


redpoint73


May 23, 2008, 3:45 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
Your GF is upset for something else dude and you are too slow to figure out my man. It is time to let her see the real DYNO

That's the best thing you have ever written on this site!


clausti


May 23, 2008, 3:46 PM
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j_ung wrote:
I chose "other," because you're both wrong. "Dyno," is short for dynamic movement. Everything from the tiniest pop to to the biggest all-points-off throw is accomplished by generating momentum, riding that momentum to the target hold and then grabbing for it at the deadpoint (in this context when forward progress ends but before gravity takes over), therefore, all of those are "dynoes." This is not a subjective definition. If some fool now chimes in with, "But I was taught that..." then that fool was probably taught by another fool.

I'll allow, though, that in the right context, for example a dyno competition, rather than both of you being wrong, both of of you could be considered right.

if someone tells you they did a "dyno", what do you take that to mean? not a tiny pop. that is the context that i am talking about, dyno as generally understood when describing things in conversation.

this originally arose when camhead was telling me about some route they were tryng, that it had a "dyno" in it, but that most people didnt take their feet off. i was like wtf are you talking about.


Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 3:48 PM
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ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.


imnotclever


May 23, 2008, 3:55 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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I thought she was your fiancee.


snoopy138


May 23, 2008, 4:02 PM
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j_ung wrote:
I chose "other," because you're both wrong. "Dyno," is short for dynamic movement. Everything from the tiniest pop to to the biggest all-points-off throw is accomplished by generating momentum, riding that momentum to the target hold and then grabbing for it at the deadpoint (in this context when forward progress ends but before gravity takes over), therefore, all of those are "dynoes." This is not a subjective definition. If some fool now chimes in with, "But I was taught that..." then that fool was probably taught by another fool.

this is correct.

camhead, yore rong.

itz clausti's fault, though.


majid_sabet


May 23, 2008, 4:02 PM
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camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


olderic


May 23, 2008, 4:03 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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Of course j_ung is right. A dyno is anything that is not static. Static is where you can freeze frame and hold any intermediate position in the "move" for several seconds. But what we have here is a classic evolution of the language. And, as is typical - the girls seem to be more evolved then the boys.


Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 4:04 PM
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imnotclever wrote:
I thought she was your fiancee.

she is my fiancee, but that term is just kind of weird. it smacks of "oh, after extensive negotiation between my representatives and the representatives of clausti's father, we came to an agreeable purchase price of seventy three cows and two dozen sturdily-built negros, in exchange for her being now called my fiancee."


clausti


May 23, 2008, 4:06 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?


Arrogant_Bastard


May 23, 2008, 4:08 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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Well, I've participated in a few Running Dyno Competitions (RDC) in my day, so I'm somewhat of an authority ("ah-thor-a-tie").

Let me start off by saying you're both wrong, and it's both of your faults.

I mostly agree with J_ung, however I usually reserve the term 'Dyno' for the big throws. For example, one might say:

"I don't understand the enjoyment of spending your entire day on these pebbles that consist of two easy moves and a jump"

When it comes to the short pops, as J_ung called them, I usually refer to them as dynamic movements. For example:

"No you ignorant, pre-pubescent, un-bathed, pathetic excuse for a climber, I will not ‘just grab’ that hold, I will do it statically instead of lunging for every hold like a God-damned amphetamine addict having a seizure. If it wasn’t pouring rain outside I wouldn’t be in this damn gym. Go campus somebody else’s project.”


camhead wrote:
imnotclever wrote:
I thought she was your fiancee.

she is my fiancee, but that term is just kind of weird. it smacks of "oh, after extensive negotiation between my representatives and the representatives of clausti's father, we came to an agreeable purchase price of seventy three cows and two dozen sturdily-built negros, in exchange for her being now called my fiancee."

Dude, you paid 73 cows and two dozen negros for Clausti

I wouldn't have gone a hair over 50 cows. They can have the negros, ever since this Civil Rights movement I can't get them to do no work.


(This post was edited by Arrogant_Bastard on May 23, 2008, 4:46 PM)


Partner camhead


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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
camhead wrote:
imnotclever wrote:
I thought she was your fiancee.

she is my fiancee, but that term is just kind of weird. it smacks of "oh, after extensive negotiation between my representatives and the representatives of clausti's father, we came to an agreeable purchase price of seventy three cows and two dozen sturdily-built negros, in exchange for her being now called my fiancee."

Dude, you paid 73 cows and two dozen negros for Clausti

I wouldn't have gone a hair over 50 cows. They can have the negros, ever since this Civil Rights movement I can't get them to do no work.

yeah, I actually think that I paid too much; I mean, I can't even keep her tied down with core strands!


granite_grrl


May 23, 2008, 4:16 PM
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Re: [j_ung] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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Okay, so anything with dynamic movement is a "dyno". Technically yes. But in terms of describing climbing moves (for me):

dyno - large dynamic move, generally where you feet cut, where you cannot recover if you miss your target.

deadpoint - small to medium dynamic move, where typically at least one foot remains on the wall, which is possible to recover from if you miss (though generally with difficulty).


Arrogant_Bastard


May 23, 2008, 4:22 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
Okay, so anything with dynamic movement is a "dyno". Technically yes. But in terms of describing climbing moves (for me):

dyno - large dynamic move, generally where you feet cut, where you cannot recover if you miss your target.

deadpoint - small to medium dynamic move, where typically at least one foot remains on the wall, which is possible to recover from if you miss (though generally with difficulty).

A deadpoint has nothing to do with the size of the move, it's hitting the hold right at the apex of the movement (i.e. zero vertical velocity). I think it's most impressive on the big moves, it looks really odd when their body suddenly stops moving.


granite_grrl


May 23, 2008, 4:27 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Okay, so anything with dynamic movement is a "dyno". Technically yes. But in terms of describing climbing moves (for me):

dyno - large dynamic move, generally where you feet cut, where you cannot recover if you miss your target.

deadpoint - small to medium dynamic move, where typically at least one foot remains on the wall, which is possible to recover from if you miss (though generally with difficulty).

A deadpoint has nothing to do with the size of the move, it's hitting the hold right at the apex of the movement (i.e. zero vertical velocity). I think it's most impressive on the big moves, it looks really odd when their body suddenly stops moving.

Whatever. Its not like I'm a boulderer or anything, I like my rope.

Heck, I don't even look good in a bennie! (or even a touque!)


majid_sabet


May 23, 2008, 4:27 PM
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Re: [clausti] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?

You must be Cam's GF

Nice to know you too


Arrogant_Bastard


May 23, 2008, 4:31 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?

You must be Cam's GF

Nice to know you too

You obviously don't understand the process of shuttting the fuck up.


snoopy138


May 23, 2008, 4:34 PM
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?

You must be Cam's GF

Nice to know you too

You obviously don't understand the process of shuttting the fuck up.

with over 37 posts per day, obviously neither due you.


Arrogant_Bastard


May 23, 2008, 4:36 PM
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snoopy138 wrote:
Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?

You must be Cam's GF

Nice to know you too

You obviously don't understand the process of shuttting the fuck up.

with over 37 posts per day, obviously neither due you.

He has a point.


Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
clausti wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
camhead wrote:
ok, jung, but what about for specific "dyno problems," since this is in the bouldering forum?

And majid, you are right. the reason that my gf is really mad at me is because the other day we were fooling around, and I went to tie her up, but all I had were core strands from my 11mm static line. I tied her up, but then my chonson snagged on the strand, and it fricking broke! the strand, not my chonson. thanks a lot, dude.

Cam

I am telling you man, ladies have a different way of communicating especially when it comes to their personal needs. This Dyno debate is only to tell you that your odometer is near the 100K and you started burring oil. I am sure she would leave you soon for some other younger rat but just do not feel bad ok. You can always dyno by yourself.


hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh?

You must be Cam's GF

Nice to know you too

You obviously don't understand the process of shuttting the fuck up.

with over 37 posts per day, obviously neither due you.

He has a point.

oh!


Partner camhead


May 23, 2008, 4:41 PM
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Re: [camhead] definition of a "dyno?" [In reply to]
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I dyno'd right into that PTFTMFW

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