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bretterick
Nov 10, 2002, 9:06 PM
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it never feels comfortable, but you do learn to trust your gear and your attention changes from the fall to the stopping of the fall, cause thats where all the pain comes from anyways, congrats on your first fall! now your a real climber
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redpoint73
Nov 14, 2002, 11:15 PM
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The fear of falling is usually worse than the fall itself. You get used to falling pretty quick. Just watch out for those swinging whippers, where you might twist your ankle or bruise your heel.
If you're sketching on a hard climb, and afraid to take the fall, just remind yourself: the fall is clean, my belayer is solid, the bolt is bomber, etc. Hell, the worse part is knowing that you have to repeat all those moves you just did! . . .
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overlord
Nov 29, 2002, 3:00 PM
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whatever you do, dont look down to see where the previous bolt is
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stevematthys
Nov 30, 2002, 3:51 AM
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take a 50ft screamer. then you will be comfortable with little whips.
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wv5ten
Nov 30, 2002, 5:09 AM
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The thing is you don't want to get comfortable. That will lead to shortcuts in breaking the fall, which leads to an upped chance of serious injury or death. If it surges your adrenaline every time you're going to be more alert everytime.
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topher
Nov 30, 2002, 5:35 AM
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if you do lots of sport climbing and you only taking sport falls, you get so acustome to it that you dont even realy think about it. trad climbing falling never fells good. ive never done it but im shure an aid fall on a "hard" route has to be scary as ass! listening to pop pop pop pop..... and then having like 10 pices hanging in front of your face. i dont think that would ever fell good. aid climbers got balls!
[ This Message was edited by: topher on 2002-11-29 21:36 ]
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lemurboy
Dec 1, 2002, 9:51 PM
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Whipers on a sport route... Ok...just dont hit the ground, and watch you speed coming into the rock it hurts hiting the cliff at mach 1
whipers on trad route....you have a death wish!
My first big whip was at the red again. on Sun shine, i fell 20 ft after a freak fall...my feet just lost friction and off i went. it was only a 5.9!
anyway have fun flying!
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petsfed
Dec 1, 2002, 10:48 PM
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My first fall was on trad gear. Needless to say I haven't done it since.
You can read about it and many other first falls here
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nbrown
Dec 1, 2002, 11:40 PM
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Never taken a fall. Too scared it won't hold so I don't lead unless I know I can do it.
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coclimber26
Dec 14, 2002, 1:17 AM
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My first fall was Trad on a 1" cam, many more have followed. It definately makes you pay more attention to your pro placement.
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figure08
Dec 29, 2002, 12:39 AM
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I had my first fall today! It was great! It was my third time leading, and I was one move away from clipping the top, but I just couldn't do it so I fell. It was a pretty good fall and it was really good to get that over with and know that it's ok.
I screamed though. I never thought I'd do that! How embarassing! I tried it twice and fell twice. Next time I'll get it.
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holdplease2
Dec 29, 2002, 1:04 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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My first fall was on Trad gear (red DMM cam, still my best friend) I knew it was the crux, tho, so I had two pieces in.
Interestingly, due to the weight of the rack, inexperience in falling, and loosing hands but not feet, I ended up upside down.
Even more interestingly, I still have a small hole in the back of the (now retired) helmet which is the perfect imprint of the thumb rest on the stem of the camalot that was sticking out of the rock where I hit.
Needless to say, despite two additional (small) falls on Trad gear, I still feel the fear after having gone upside down. It sucks in general and I do everything I can to avoid it, and I mean everything. I've gotten pretty creative, believe me.
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