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jgill
Nov 25, 2002, 3:21 AM
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When I climbed in the Tetons in the 1950s there were very few really good female rock climbers. Now, there are a number of brilliant female climbers who regularly climb near the top of the scale. (This has been paralleled by the emergence of superlative young female gymnasts.) Who were the pioneers of this striking transition in womens' rock climbing?
[ This Message was edited by: jgill on 2002-11-24 20:08 ]
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andy_lemon
Nov 25, 2002, 3:47 AM
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Quote:superlative young female gymnasts
I guess I don't have to tell you who the first person was that busted out gymnastic moves on rock since it was you.
I think Lynn Hill set the standard for female rock climbers. Katie Brown turned some heads too!
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farmerc
Nov 25, 2002, 4:29 AM
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First i must bow down to the venerable John Gill
*bow*
I was reading a book called the history of climbing in the northeast, and it seems as if there were some pretty early female climbers around the Gunks and the Adirondacks. I'll be interested to hear what people have to say on this.
~Chris
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ambler
Nov 25, 2002, 1:12 PM
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Bev Johnson, Anne Marie Rizzi and Sybille Hechtel were among the first women leading on big routes in Yosemite, in the early 1970s. They struggled against male stereotypes to define themselves as climbers, not climbing groupies.
By the mid-70s, Diana Hunter was leading free routes near the top grades, forshadowing the ultra-strong women climbers of today. There is a picture in Godfrey and Chelton of her leading Wide Country on the Bastille; in the day (and with the gear at the time) that was a formidable pitch. By then attitudes were changing, but Diana's graceful ascents of routes most men couldn't do were a breakthrough.
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buzyrock
Nov 25, 2002, 1:40 PM
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There is a good info in the article at http://www.camp4.com/index.php?newsid=412 written by Heidi Hass
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thomasribiere
Nov 25, 2002, 6:41 PM
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Isabelle Patissier was famous in France in the 80's, as Catherine Destivelle who was a great alpinist too.
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rollingstone
Nov 25, 2002, 7:04 PM
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I met Sybille Hechtel this summer in Tuolomne, and she is still crankin' routes that are hard; she recalled Yosemite in the early 70s with Seattle climbers Carla Firey and Julie Brugger, not to mention Catherine Freer. Be sure to check out Pat Ament's new book on the History of Free Climbing in America. The pictures could use improving, but there is a wealth of information broken down by year...great source for info!!
[ This Message was edited by: rollingstone on 2002-11-25 11:05 ]
[ This Message was edited by: rollingstone on 2002-12-11 15:52 ]
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gunkjunkie
Nov 25, 2002, 7:12 PM
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How about Bonnie Prudden? On many FA's at the Gunks - including the impressive crux pitch of Bonnie's Roof.
Deirdre
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ambler
Nov 25, 2002, 7:16 PM
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Hey, I'm happy hear that Sybille is still going strong!
Wish that was true for Diana and Bev as well.
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jgill
Nov 25, 2002, 11:57 PM
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I'm trying to recall, but I think the first really good female climber I met in the 1950s was Jan Conn - she and Herb did a tremendous amount of climbing in the Needles of the Black Hills, and were fairly equal in ability. They made climbing shoes out of low top tennis shoes, scoring the smooth soles to make them stick better. She was especially good in chimneys and cracks.
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ambler
Nov 26, 2002, 12:35 AM
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And some of those old Conn routes might scare sporthogs today -- 5.8 in the Needles can be playing for keeps.
Still, I'm inclined to think of the early to mid 70s as a real breakthrough era for women in US climbing -- El Cap and Half Dome, and 5.10+ free leads, remain big goals for many climbers today. And what the leaders were doing was widely noticed by others, women and men (moreso than with Jan Conn or Bonnie Pruden's fine achievements, I suspect).
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camhead
Nov 26, 2002, 12:54 AM
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You people are not giving proper homage to Lynn Hill, only one person has mentioned her thus far!!!
Bev Johnson
Robyn Erbesfeld (sp?)
Steph Davis
and, most of all:
Josune Bereciartu (first female ascents of 14c and 14d, ratings wise she is by far the hardest climbing woman in the world)
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jgill
Nov 27, 2002, 3:30 AM
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I think you are correct, Ambler, about the 1970s being an accelerated period for female climbers. I wonder about the 1960s. I once met a woman boulderer in the mid 1960s. She was working on some of the problems at Jenny Lake. I don't remember her name, but if anyone has heard of this probably unique individual, speak up!
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apollodorus
Nov 27, 2002, 4:25 AM
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Unlike men, women tend to do things and not brag about them. Chuck Wilts' wife (name?) and Liz Robbins were both players in the Golden Age. Ancient myths hold fast to the first ascent from the Lost Arrow notch, done by an Indian maiden who recovered the lifeless body of her betrothed.
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ambler
Nov 27, 2002, 2:01 PM
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Mid 60s in Tetons...might she have been one of the Vulgarians? There were a few solid (and interesting) women climbers among their ranks as I dimly recall. We need a Gunks historian here.
[ This Message was edited by: ambler on 2002-11-27 06:39 ]
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jgill
Nov 27, 2002, 9:29 PM
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Yes, I knew the Vulgarians. Interesting bunch. Those of us camping in the old Climbers' Campground learned to stay well away from the dirt road when they decided to hold an automobile rally! I don't recall any outstanding women climbers in the bunch, but I could be wrong. Liz was certainly a player in the Golden Age, but to my recollection, not an initiator. I spent some time with the two of them in the Needles in the early 1960s. She climbed very well, as did her predecessor(with Royal), Janie Taylor. Janie may have been the premier female climber in the country about 1960. As for Liz, Pat A. claims that in 1964 she may have been the first female in America to do a 5.10, following Royal up Lichen Nightmare.
Still, it may have been the rise of the Womens' Lib movement in the latter 1960s and 1970s that provided impetus for women to become leaders, and not followers, although throughout the history of climbing you can find isolated instances of strong, self-motivated, bold women climbers. When Lynn and others began their careers the artificial ceilings were beginning to dissolve.
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climbsomething
Nov 27, 2002, 9:35 PM
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Is Lynn Hill too simplistic or America-centric of an answer?
Lynn Hill is my hee-roe
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russmanswife
Nov 27, 2002, 9:36 PM
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just a little thougth what about over in europe? i imagine there would be some women that were climbing long before the women over here.
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climbsomething
Nov 27, 2002, 9:37 PM
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Strong female climbers... behold what hath emerged in modern times...
swiped from climbnow1's fantabulous albums)
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rockpossum
Nov 27, 2002, 9:44 PM
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My Top 5...
1.Lynn Hill
2.Patissier
3.Lynn Hill
4.Katie Brown
5.Lynn Hill
and I think an honorable mention should go to Lynn Hill.
My wife and I saw her speak and took up climbing the next weekend. She too is my hero.
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moeman
Nov 27, 2002, 9:47 PM
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Its to be expected that the 60s and 70s were the big transitional period for female climbers. It coincided w/ the same sort of thing happening in many other aspects of society.
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jer
Nov 27, 2002, 10:40 PM
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http://www.womenclimbing.com
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jgill
Nov 27, 2002, 10:52 PM
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A good source, jer. Thanks. The 1960s, the immediate prelude to the big surge in womens' climbing is still murky. I suspect there were other females we haven't mentioned who were starting the momentum...
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just_me
Nov 27, 2002, 10:53 PM
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Jan Conn Rules!!
Even though she often climbed with her husband, it was NOT the case that he did all of the leading. She has tons of first ascent credits all over the Needles of SD.
To prove to others that she was not simply "hauled" up by her husband, she also did all female ascents. Here is a great story about the first all female ascent of Devils Tower in 1952.
http://www.nps.gov/deto/all_girl_climb.htm
[ This Message was edited by: just_me on 2002-11-27 14:54 ]
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elvislegs
Nov 27, 2002, 11:09 PM
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Has anyone mentioned Nancy Feagin (sp)? Well rounded and tough as nails. I like it!
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