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brucemaclachlan
Jun 5, 2012, 11:34 PM
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Registered: Jul 10, 2011
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I climbed at Leavenworth last year with some mates (Clamshell Cave and Martian) and am heading back in a few weeks. Any recomendations for sport climb areas, especially places with good top roping in the 5.6 to 5:10a region? I have the guidebook, but am looking for recomendations for some mellow/lazy climbing fun, no trad this time, and as little lead as possible.
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jp_sucks
Jun 5, 2012, 11:45 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2006
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Check out the areas in the guidebook around 8 mile campground (also a good campsite). The stuff up on the hill across the road has lots of toprope access. Also a good spot just past the campground entrance a few hundred feet below the road on the left (forget the name).
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shaoleung
Jun 6, 2012, 4:52 AM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2008
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If you're looking for sport, closer to Seattle is better. Exit 38 or Little Si. Little Si has longer and tougher climbs. If you go to Exit 38, the Far Side has a bunch of great climbs in that range. Leavenworth is phenomenal for trad and mixed gear/bolt routes. Otherwise pickins are slim. Perhaps the best sport climb in your parameters is Condorphamine Addiction. It's a slog up to the base - 45 min to an hour for most folks. The climb itself is 3 or 4 pitches. Great views. TRs - can't help you there. I know Leavenworth has em, but I like the sharp end.
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redlude97
Jun 6, 2012, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Clem's Holler has some good 10- sportish routes, though they do have to be led. Gun rack(9/10a) has a great double roof section that is fun to pull, and Javelin(10a/b) may be the best bolted 10- in leavenworth. Otherwise head to classic crack, Barney's rubble area, or the playground crags.
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chris
Aug 21, 2012, 2:53 AM
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
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shaoleung wrote: If you're looking for sport, closer to Seattle is better. Exit 38 or Little Si. Little Si has longer and tougher climbs. If you go to Exit 38, the Far Side has a bunch of great climbs in that range. Leavenworth is phenomenal for trad and mixed gear/bolt routes. Otherwise pickins are slim. Perhaps the best sport climb in your parameters is Condorphamine Addiction. It's a slog up to the base - 45 min to an hour for most folks. The climb itself is 3 or 4 pitches. Great views. TRs - can't help you there. I know Leavenworth has em, but I like the sharp end. Ditto
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