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watersprite
Jan 22, 2003, 12:16 AM
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the more I read, the more confused I'm getting. Should I start with bouldering, even though I don't care for that?
I don't want to end up a Belay Monkey just because I'm a girl!
where can I find climbers advanced enough to teach me (not amateurs) without paying a guide - tell the truth, the guides at the gyms scare me. I have no way of checking out their background.
so - any suggestions would be appreciated.
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limittester
Jan 22, 2003, 1:07 AM
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I would personally go to your local climbing shop and just start talking to the workers and get some references or ask them if they would mind if you tagged along. I have never been bouldering and don't think I will.I would much rather be tyed in (just personal preference).Good luck, be safe, and climb on.
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bandycoot
Jan 22, 2003, 1:13 AM
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That's one tough question. It's hard to just land partners. Having been in your situation, and now being in the situation that many beginners I meet in a gym I work at want me to teach them, here is some advice:
Go where climbers gather socially. They gather socialy at rock climbing gyms, and at bouldering areas. By socially I mean it is easy to interact with new people and they are usually friendly. Also, at both of these places you need little experience. At places where people rope up they are distracted and busy climbing with their partners. Remember, don't be shy! Go talk to new people and be social yourself!
Post on this web site for partners. There are people here from all walks of life and levels of experience, and I think that there is even a partners forum!
Find a climbing club or assocation in your area. They may have fees, but they usually teach what you need in classes, sometimes cheaper than a guide.
It can be hard to find a climbing partner. Those who are experienced like to climb hard. I personally would rather team up with an experienced climber and climb one of the harder longer traditional climbs in the area than take a beginner cragging. However, if someone becomes my friend, I'll take a day or two of my weekends and "show them the ropes" literally. Don't expect it to be easy to get into this sport. It is very knowledge oriented, and there is no way to teach yourself as in many other sports. On the same note, as you meet your goals and improve and learn, it is the most rewarding sport I've ever found!
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dino
Jan 22, 2003, 1:20 AM
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watersprite, Just go for it. Buy some gear and go practice at the crag. Build belays at ground level; jump up and down on them. Place pro, test it and take it out. This will build confidence in your own handiwork. Take your books. And don't worry, you'll get tons of input while you're there-take it with a grain of salt. Bouldering really helps your foot work. Do easy ones and make sure you can jump off.
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drector
Jan 22, 2003, 1:23 AM
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I never bouldered until well after I had done some trad climbing. I would recommend the suggestion of hanging out where people boulder. You may find you like it and it does require and improve basic climbing skills.
You could also try areas where people practice a lot of top roping as opposed to hanging out at the bottom of a bunch of multi-pitch trad routes. Just last Sunday, I saw a group with three people and volunteered to belay. I got in more climbing than belaying, was able to show the person I climbed with a few tricks, and had a good day. Of course, you need to be prepared to wither boulder alone or go home if it doesn't work out. I think that if you volunteer to belay, the others will let you climb between belays.
Dave
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watersprite
Jan 22, 2003, 6:48 PM
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thank you all for the tips. I have shoes and a harness, I've done a little climbing on belay. going to do some bouldering on my lunch breaks. I'm in Palo Alto - there is the Alpine Rd. rock near me. STuff in Woodside, too - so thanks - and I'm in!!
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spider_woman
Jan 22, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Palo Alto is a beautiful place to live....Pluto's has great salads!! But onto climbing.
I am probably repeating more of the same but I will go ahead anyhow. The best way to find a climbing partner is to put yourself out there....go to the climbing gym at the busiest times (you can ask the desk when those times are if you don't already know). Hang out at the bouldering spots too. When I first started climbing I would spend most of my time in the bouldering cave at the gym. Lots of times there were people who would come in without a partner too, so they would say "hey let's go top rope", and then you were good to go. As for gym guides, usually if a gym trusts people to belay, then they are solid belayers, but you can never be to careful. Also you might ask the gym staff if they need any volunteer belayers, this will get you some exposure to good climbers that give equally good beta, and depending on the gym, possibly a discount for climbing. Happy Climbing!!
-R.
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deepresource
Jan 22, 2003, 11:06 PM
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Just buy a Grigri and it doesn't matter how good your belay is. Don't go home without it.
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watersprite
Jan 22, 2003, 11:36 PM
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thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to the gym tonight.
my other question is - a climber buddy gave me a belay device - it's not a gris-gris. Are the simple devices just as safe? I know it's physics, and I feel confident belaying, just want to be sure I can use it and the climber will be safe.
I have the bug, no kidding there!! drove on my lunch hour to look at a boulder. It was too wet to do anything but - it's neat that there are so many indoor gyms around.
thanks again and I will be back with many questions.
um- beta = info?
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flash
Jan 22, 2003, 11:47 PM
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NO!
There is a simple solution to your problem:
1. Grab a book - at the very least, you will have some basic knowledge for 2-3 knots, and of course ANCHORS.
2. Find a guide
If you are UNABLE (financially or else) to find a guide, go climbing with someone. With the basic knowledge from reading, you will be able to tell if that person is safe. I mean, that stuff isn't rocket science... Ask yourself some questions:
Does he/she seem to care about safety?
Can they answer your questions?
Start reading a book: Perhaps toproping, how to rock climb, etc... or simply get the Mountaineering Guide which will include just about everything.
Remember this:
Everything is redundant in climbing. Anyone telling you otherwise is probably taking short shortcuts.
Bouldering?
Personally, I don't care for it, so I can probably assume my answer.
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misha
Jan 22, 2003, 11:59 PM
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out of pure curiousity, why dont you guys like bouldering?
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redpoint73
Jan 23, 2003, 3:26 PM
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Bouldering is a quick way to get climbing. no messing with ropes and gear - you just focus on the act of climbing (but its recommended that you have a spotter and bouldering pads). That is why some people recommend it for beginners.
But if you don't like it, then there is no real NEED to boulder. I can understand the inherent fun of climbing up a 50 (or 1000)foot as oppossed to a 15 foot boulder. Many people climb and never ever boulder.
Try hooking up with partners here on the forum, or post a message at your gym. Its not too difficult (if you are careful) to figure out which climbers are knowledgable and safe, and which are not. Although many of the climbers I know (including myself) climbed with a nutball when when they were beginning. But once you figure out that they are not safe, you just stop climbing with them.
Some advanced climbers may shy away from climbing with you, and may want to stick with partners in their ability level. But there are plenty others that would be more than happy to "teach you the ropes". So don't be frustrated if someone you approach is not interested, just try someone else.
As for checking on credentials of guides, you can ask if the guide service is AMGA certified. There are many reputable, certified guides in California.
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kman
Jan 23, 2003, 10:55 PM
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Deepresource said: "Just buy a Grigri and it doesn't matter how good your belay is. Don't go home without it."
Since you put a smilie in there I would assume you are joking. Some newb might read that and take it seriuosly though. Yes...it always matters how good your belay is, gri gri or not!!
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orangekyak
Jan 23, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Hey new girl ...
It's totally normal to question everything and everyone whether you are new or not.
It is wierd to learn to trust gear, and to trust other people. Your friend who gave you a (non gri gri) belay device sounds already like a good source. I hope this doesn't turn into a gri gri pros/cons thread. That could just confuse you more .
Go bouldering! Go to the gym! Go top-rope climbing outside with someone you trust. Don't be afraid to back away from anything dangerous. Bring a friend if you are worried - maybe you can learn climbing with someone:). I'm just advocating that you do a lot of climbing right away. If you have shoes, harness and basic belay device, don't buy more gear until you know what you want.
Lastly, I hate to be sexist, but keep in mind that most climber boys like climber girls. And there are noticably more men climbing than women. You'll have very little trouble finding people to share their gear and knowledge with you.
Regarding RC.com for partners - once you feel confident, this is not such a bad idea. It's worked out well for me.
good luck,
o.k.
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watersprite
Jan 23, 2003, 11:48 PM
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thank you and I will be climbing daily! I joined a gym (not my preferred routine) and when it's dry I have a few boulders scouted out - and there's always Castle Rock.
do you kayak also? I was going to go boating this weekend but friends cancelled.
I wonder if there is a site as good as this for watersports...
thanks again and if you don't mind - I added you to my friends list!
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climbhigher
Jan 24, 2003, 12:35 AM
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I started 12 years ago by buying a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag and started bouldering. Good way to pracitise technique and no gear to %@#$ around with. And then i started setting up topropes. A Very good way to understand how protection works and a good way to start setting up anchors. And then you can progress into Lead climbing very easy routes. (Easy to protect and Easy to climb) . It's a good thing to take a rock climbing class. A good way to meet a partner. and practice with people you trust. They don't have to be more experiece then you. It's just a good thing to have a good second opinion when setting up anchors. Good books to read is "Freedom of the Hills" (The bible) and any of the books from the "Learn How to Rock climb" seris. Also "Climbing Anchors One and Two" by John Long is good when you get more experience with gear.
I believe it's very reasonable and safe to become a self taught climber. Climb Safe and always use good PROTECTION. CHEERS, Chris.
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watersprite
Jan 24, 2003, 12:49 AM
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thank you, Chris!! I definitely need some reading material.
as a matter of etiquette, and not to just be posting Thanks all the time - hope you all know how much I appreciate this site, and the non-flame approach is especially welcome.
another question I have is - does anyone climb Aussie style - and if you do - why!????
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insomniac
Jan 24, 2003, 12:52 AM
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watersprite, check boatertalk.com for ww kayaking later..... used to Aussie rapel long time ago. we did it by tying into a figure 8 in the small of your back, running the rope up and over your shoulder, and running down the rock, instead of leaping backwards. this is not a recommendaton to try it.
[ This Message was edited by: insomniac on 2003-01-23 16:56 ]
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watersprite
Jan 24, 2003, 1:40 AM
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I would never do it, even later when I know what I'm doing!!
thanks for the boating site.
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misha
Jan 24, 2003, 3:49 AM
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you guys are paranoid. basically anyone at the gym would be a fine clibing partner. you don't need an FBI background check on these people. Nobody wants to killd you.
Damn you folks need to relax, take a pill and just go climbing without worrying about dying. Especially if your in the gym, it's very hard to get injured there so do everyone a favor and dont get your panties in a wad.
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cookiecrumb
Jan 24, 2003, 3:54 AM
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Climb whatever you have fun with. That said, some bouldering will improve your strength and technique, which will in turn let you enjoy more difficult routes.
As well, if you boulder every once and a while you'll meet people who are both less and more experienced. This is a good way to meet other climbers since it does not require that you have a partner.
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kman
Jan 24, 2003, 3:54 AM
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...just remember that when meeting someone in a gym it does not mean they know squat about setting anchors ect, for climbing outside. So no, not everyone will make a fine climbing partner. Careful who you climb with.
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watersprite
Jan 24, 2003, 5:47 PM
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thanks, kman -I wasn't worried about the gym setting. It's the outdoor settings where I would want to be with experienced people.
on another subject, how to embed a pic in a post?
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bakedjake
Jan 24, 2003, 7:52 PM
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I am a newbie as well. I find the people at my indoor wall & climbing shop are exceptionally helpfull and more than willing to give advice. I liken the climbing group to my fly fishing groups, we all help each other in the mutual love of our sport. I go to one of my local indoor walls and the first question I ask after "whats your name" is "how long you been climbing?" If they state anything above 2 years [the fools, the fools] I glue myself to their side. It's a little inconvenient for them while they're climbing but I don't seem to mind. I find my extra weight only helps to build their climbing endurance and they don't mind giving me climbing tips.
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