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mr.poo
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Apr 23, 2003, 6:43 AM
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man a lot of the responces in the post on the 5.12 equivalent for trad talk of 5.11 being a elite position for a climber. well on of my friends who is a lot older than me and way more experienced climbs 5.11 trad. No these 5.11s are not easy over rated climbs, they are real deal classic 5.11s in NRG. the thing is, most of the responces have said that trad is limited to 5.11 and 5.12 at most. well if any of you have seen the new DVD Front Range Freaks there is a part of the video called Trad Freaks where Topher Donahue gets a first acent of a 5.13 with just gear. the guy climbs a friggen 5.13 with nuts and cams. so what do you guys have to say about that
and Topher Donahue is a pro but he isn't the worlds best trad climber so i think it isnt fair to say 5.12 is the best a trad climber can do.
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psych
Apr 23, 2003, 7:31 AM
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I'd say "Holy crap!" And that I'd love to see that entire video...
I'd ALSO say, you managed to post this in it's own little message, and not in the original.
/me claps Mr.Poo on the back. "Good work, lad"
Mike... :wink:
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vegastradguy
Apr 24, 2003, 6:08 PM
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well, Tommy Caldwell climbed the Salathe wall in under 24 on trad, and it has several 5.13 pitches, not to mention the Huber boys, Potter, and a multitude of valley boys.
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freed
Apr 24, 2003, 6:28 PM
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if you want to see paople you have never heard of climbing 5.13 trad just go to Indian Creek any weekend of the season.
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mesomorf
Apr 24, 2003, 6:44 PM
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Geez, if it's 5.13 AND trad, that must make it harder than Realization. And Kauk's 5.14 trad line must be the hardest climb in the world!
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marks
Apr 24, 2003, 7:04 PM
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im not a pro or anything like that,just someone who likes climbing alot i have done .13's trad.if i can anyone can.you just have to commit to what you like
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brutusofwyde
Apr 24, 2003, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: im not a pro or anything like that,just someone who likes climbing alot i have done .13's trad.if i can anyone can.you just have to commit to what you like
Oh yeah? Well YOU don't need a chrome-plated walker to cross the street now, do you?
:oops:
Brutus
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murf
Apr 24, 2003, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: if you want to see paople you have never heard of climbing 5.13 trad just go to Indian Creek any weekend of the season.
And you'll never go to a place where the ratings have less meaning....
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podunkclimber
Apr 29, 2003, 6:50 PM
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Anyone who can lead at their own personal climbing limits deserves respect, and when that limit also coincides with the limits of the decimal rating system, you deserve even more. Even if 13 you've climbed is really a over inflated 11, you still get my props. It all has no limits, every time we think climbing does, someone goes out there and does something even harder, and pushes the limits farther. Ethics has a lot to do with it, and your own personal style.
I'm a recent convert to the idea of leashless ice climbing, I just recently saw Petzl's Pitch Sorbet, and was won over by the idea after seeing how free it made the leader. The new Quark Ergo didn't hinder much either. As the tools of your passion get refined along with our ideas about how things should be done we will constantly be in awe.
Climbing is above all a personal journey, walk your own path, challenge your self, and have fun.
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pbjosh
Apr 29, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Off the top of my head I could 100 or more climbs that are 5.13 or harder trad. Some of these are so damned famous everyone should know them:
The Nose
Salathe Wall
Regular NW Face of Half Dome
Moonlight Buttress
Grand Illusion
Sphinx Crack
Magic Line
The Phoenix
And as others have said there are areas that are stacked with 5.13 and in some cases 5.14 trad pitches:
Moab and surrounds
Boulder and surrounds
Yosemite
The Needles
Joshua Tree
The Gunks
Idaho/Wyoming (City of Rocks, Vedauwoo, etc)
In my personal opinion climbing 5.10 trad (solidly, as in 10+ OW and slab as well) is a good accomplishment that most will never actually reach. Leading 5.11 trad solidly is stellar. I don't know many people that are solid 12 OW or slab climbers. Now if you want to talk about hand and finger cracks, there are a lot of choices in the 5.13 and 5.14 range and those are all spectacular achievements as well. But I still don't know a single 5.13 slab climber, heh ;)
josh
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stonefiend
May 31, 2003, 3:11 AM
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kauk slab rings a bell..
penty of v7 and harder slabs out there.. no reason they shouldn't exist on routes.
i know plenty of routes with v7+ cruxes on slabs.. albeit slightly less than vert.
stfu.
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pico23
May 31, 2003, 3:40 AM
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In reply to: im not a pro or anything like that,just someone who likes climbing alot i have done .13's trad.if i can anyone can.you just have to commit to what you like
(under my breath) bullsh!t
(fake sneeze) bullsh!t
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