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monkeyarm
Apr 25, 2003, 4:17 AM
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I am looking for advice on what gear to buy for my first rack. I am looking more specifically for passive pro to use at Devil's Lake, WI.
I am planning on taking a a class on trad placements, have already done a forum search, and have perople to climb with, but unfortunatly none of them are any more then sports climbers.
The reason I want to buy the gear now is that I can get a prodeal now, but won't be able to later on. or after I take the class.
Thanks for the help.
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moabbeth
Apr 25, 2003, 4:25 AM
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As for passive pro, just get a good set of nuts (I have the Metolius curved nuts that are awesome) and some hexes. Won't set you back too much since you're not looking for active pro. That's where things get pricey. But if you have a pro deal, you might want to get ahold of a good deal on some active pro while you have the chance cause that's the stuff you want deals on since it costs a lot more (a whole set of curved nuts is about the same prices as 1 and a half Aliens)
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monkeyarm
Apr 25, 2003, 5:18 AM
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the companies that I can get prodeals from don't sell SLCDs.
What size nuts and hexes get used the most often?
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mountaindoc
Apr 25, 2003, 5:56 AM
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Like Moabbeth said, passive pro is dirt cheap compared to cams. 2 sets of nuts and the largest 5-6 hexes will set you back $150 at the most. So if you can't buy cams, then try and get some Lowe tri cams, I use the smallest 4-5 all the time. They are great for anchors on long alpine trad routes. Also buy biners and slings and draws. Stock up on Omega wire gates and Petzl spirits and spectra sewn runners. Buy a half dozen petzl attache's(sp), a comfy harness, and some comfy all around shoes that you can wear all day long!
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arlen
Apr 26, 2003, 5:16 AM
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The first 2 sizes of BD Stoppers aren't rated for falls. So 3-13 or the equivalents would be useful (though my #3 and #4 are still shiny). Likewise the hexes that are solid get sorted out by many climbers.
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phugganut
Apr 29, 2003, 7:04 AM
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Make sure you get some Camp Tri-cams!!!
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jerrygarcia
Apr 29, 2003, 12:01 PM
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In reply to: What size nuts and hexes get used the most often?
All of them will, each climb is different.
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danielb
Apr 30, 2003, 8:09 AM
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If you are wanting a basic rack take a look at these ready made racks gives you an idea of the cost (in £ not $ sorry) and what makes up a basic rack.
Personally protection wist I would say:
1 set of rocks/wires
1 set of hexs/rockcentrics
2 8ft slings
1 16ft sling
some biners
some screwgate biners
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pico23
May 6, 2003, 9:04 PM
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TRICAMS TRICAMS TRICAMS. No rack should be without them. 2 weeks ago we led 5 pitches in a short day and only placed 3 pieces that weren't tricams. Lots of flares and pockets where cams just didn't look good.
I'd recommend .5-3.5 or 4 (they get really unstable bigger then that). With doubles on the .5, 1, and 1.5, and maybe 2 (pink, red, brown, purple). Sizes 2-4 makes nice doubles of your bigger cams (.75-2 camalots) for use at belays. I'm weird because I often tend to place the tris on the climb and have a whole rack of cams at the belay. I guess it depends on where you climb but I find red and brown most useful.
BTW, if you can get tricams from Camp, then you can get cams. Camp makes 3cu and 4cu's and are pretty cheap retail. Never seen one up close but for probably $20 a cam (pro deal) they should be good to start. You can always get another set later on and throw the camps into the gear bin till you head west and do some longer cracks.
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pico23
May 6, 2003, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What size nuts and hexes get used the most often? All of them will, each climb is different.
True true but generally the mid size stuff. For nuts go with a full set of nuts including the smallest BD equivalents (1-3). I usually only carry to the 3 but I'd never place it for pro unless that was absolutely it and in that case I'd attach a screamer. I feel pretty good about a 6Kn #4 if it is well placed in good rock. Again a screamer would be ideal on the #4 if there is any doubt. I carry the smaller stuff less for pro then for the just in case aid section on wet rock or if I can't nail the crux. I think I've only placed my #3 once for pro. Generally I find I place 5-9 the most though to answer your question so I usually carry doubles of 4-9.
I retired my hexes a while ago and only occasionally carry them. I found tricams worked much better in many cases and were more multifunctional. The small sizes can double up your bigger nuts if you only have a set of nuts. The big ones are heavy and clunky. I think my hex set was/is 1-8 BD sizes. The big ones (#10 or 11) are nice for tapping out a stuck nut though.
The best thing to do is head to devils lake and rap some routes you might lead. Get an idea of what sizes pro seems to be prevailent and go with that. you can always add more later but having the right stuff for your home crag is the key.
One other thing. Go with all wiregates for your slings. Wiregates are cutting edge, cost less, and are much stronger because they tend to stay closed. Omega is cheap, strong and light and IMO they make the best biners on the market. For my gear end I use Dovals which are superlight, very strong, and multifunctional if you get into aiding or alpine climbing (ie. biner brakes, and biner shift). For the rope end I like Omegalite 4.0's (super strong, big biner, and about average weight) or 12 grams lighter the JC wiregate. For winter the 4.0s are easier to handle than the little JC's but for alpine or long trad routes the JC's are awesome. knocking 8 ounces off my rack and not sacrificing anything is priceless.
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old_school
May 7, 2003, 5:35 PM
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Im just starting my rack, and I basically did what you did. What all these guys are saying sounds good, so if I were you I'd spend as much as possible now, and get as much as you can while it's cheap. If you don't you'll hate your self latter. Hell, I was only getting 25% off and I wish I'd bought more stuff than I did.
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crazymonkeyheadz
May 8, 2003, 4:25 AM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
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Does anyone have any good sites on issues like this. I need more stuff and a 20$ cam is AWSOME!!! even though it might be cheap it will hold me until i can afford some TCU's.
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badphish
May 8, 2003, 10:33 PM
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smiley's nuts and wild country friends are awesome! I definetley recommend both of them. as for hexes, well who cares they hardly get used enough anyway, except for an anchor.
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jerrygarcia
May 8, 2003, 10:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What size nuts and hexes get used the most often? All of them will, each climb is different. True true but generally the mid size stuff. For nuts go with a full set of nuts including the smallest BD equivalents (1-3). I usually only carry to the 3 but I'd never place it for pro unless that was absolutely it and in that case I'd attach a screamer. I feel pretty good about a 6Kn #4 if it is well placed in good rock. Again a screamer would be ideal on the #4 if there is any doubt. I carry the smaller stuff less for pro then for the just in case aid section on wet rock or if I can't nail the crux. I think I've only placed my #3 once for pro. Generally I find I place 5-9 the most though to answer your question so I usually carry doubles of 4-9. I retired my hexes a while ago and only occasionally carry them. I found tricams worked much better in many cases and were more multifunctional. The small sizes can double up your bigger nuts if you only have a set of nuts. The big ones are heavy and clunky. I think my hex set was/is 1-8 BD sizes. The big ones (#10 or 11) are nice for tapping out a stuck nut though. The best thing to do is head to devils lake and rap some routes you might lead. Get an idea of what sizes pro seems to be prevailent and go with that. you can always add more later but having the right stuff for your home crag is the key. One other thing. Go with all wiregates for your slings. Wiregates are cutting edge, cost less, and are much stronger because they tend to stay closed. Omega is cheap, strong and light and IMO they make the best biners on the market. For my gear end I use Dovals which are superlight, very strong, and multifunctional if you get into aiding or alpine climbing (ie. biner brakes, and biner shift). For the rope end I like Omegalite 4.0's (super strong, big biner, and about average weight) or 12 grams lighter the JC wiregate. For winter the 4.0s are easier to handle than the little JC's but for alpine or long trad routes the JC's are awesome. knocking 8 ounces off my rack and not sacrificing anything is priceless.
In reply to: smiley's nuts and wild country friends are awesome! I definetley recommend both of them. as for hexes, well who cares they hardly get used enough anyway, except for an anchor.
Everyone has there own rack, each is different based on where/how they climb. I love my hexes, larger sizes too. I also use my #1 and #2 stoppers while climbing, without screamers.
http://madhermit.homestead.com/files/stoppers.jpg
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climbingbetty22
May 9, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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Personally, I love my Hexes. I have yet to climb something where I didn't place one and if you learn how to place them right, they can just be bomb. Also, I know Moabbeth recommended the Metolius curved nuts. I now alot of people like them, but I just wanted to offer my opinion. I do not like them. With the with the concave shape of the two sides, I have a hard time getting suffient surface area, and thus solid placements. I find BD nuts and Wild Country Rocks to be pretty similar and really easy to place. They might be easier for you to learn to place since this is all pretty much new to you.
Good luck and enjoy your class.
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jerrygarcia
May 9, 2003, 2:59 PM
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In reply to: Personally, I love my Hexes. I have yet to climb something where I didn't place one and if you learn how to place them right, they can just be bomb..
Listen to this woman, she knows her stuff.
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