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brianthew
May 2, 2003, 12:33 AM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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My goal is to get good at mixed/dry tooling for next season and am looking to adapt my woodie at home for some dry tooling....however, my holds (CheapHolds, I wish I had known better) can't take a pick, even a taped one...anybody know of any holds strong enough to hold up to dry tooling? Even better, some that are for 7/16" bolts (again, stupid CheapHolds)...but I suppose I can re-drill.
Thanks.
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moeman
May 2, 2003, 12:41 AM
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Maybe if you made holds out of real rock...
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philbox
Moderator
May 2, 2003, 12:58 AM
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How about fabricating some holds out of steel box section.
...Phil...
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crag
May 2, 2003, 12:38 PM
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Take small sections of wood cut from 2bies and bolt them to your wall. Yeah they will wear but its cheap. If the hold mfg. Grip Head is still in biz try some of their holds which are made out of ceramic/clay, not sure what really but they stand up to dry tooling.
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morganicclimbing
May 2, 2003, 3:32 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2002
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I couldn't help but notice this thread and post a reply. We have done a lot of dry tooling on our holds and they work great.
http://www.morganicclimbing.com/AboutUs/AboutHolds.asp
http://www.morganicclimbing.com/images/cutouts/CaseyIce.jpg
Get some of the smaller ones for dirt cheap and thrash them all you want. We are working on a complete line of dry tooling holds that are designed for picks but don't have them completed yet. Check out the medium screw-on holds and you will notice a perfect pocket. Any of the holds will work because of the strong material.
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elvislegs
May 2, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2002
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In reply to: We are working on a complete line of dry tooling holds that are designed for picks
Nice to see somebody taking care of alpinists once in a while. I'll buy em.
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pbjosh
May 2, 2003, 5:13 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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No need to buy expensive holds for dry tooling. Go to the local lumber store and buy a 1x4 or 1x3 length of oak. Cut it into blocks and shape the blocks with a drill, band saw, jig saw, etc to cut slots, holes, hooks, etc. Really the two things you can simulate easily are slots where you have to switch tools 'cause they're stacked and one's pinning the other, and edges where you can match and then take your tools off in either order. Simulating underclings (steinpullers) and cammed picks/heads is much harder no matter what medium. The edges and slots will still give you a good workout though. I have a campus route in my rafters built of stuff like that.
josh
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