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bertman
Oct 10, 2003, 12:29 AM
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during my experimentation with developing materials to make my own holds, i came across an idea to make a realistic-feeling crack climb for my wall. The section of the wall in question is two 8x4 sections on hinges that i can reposition so they are a few inches apart. Then i can take the goop, which i will explain later, and just apply it to the sides of the plywood/frame structure, leaving a crack with whatever features i put into it. Due to the fact that this stuff likes to drip, it would have to be done little by little, slowly building upon each layer, and may take a few days to complete, but it would be pretty cool. The goo feels like real rock if mixed correctly, and can even be made to feel like granite if you mix large-grain sand crystals or something in it. This is all theory thus far, because i havent done it yet, but im just posting this so people can try it out and give feedback. Here's how to make the goo:
Ingredients:
-Bondo (polyester resin) found in hardware stores by the quart or by the gallon $26/gallon i dont know the quart price
-Sand (silica sand works well, but you can experiment with different grain sizes for different texture) $3/bag
-Extra hardener for the Bondo $3/tube
Just mix the bondo and sand to an easily sculptible mixture, be sure to use tools or whatever and try not to breathe the vapors in too much, then put in the hardener at about 1.5 times the rate given by the bondo can. The more hardener, the harder it will get, and the faster it will harden, but if you put too much in it can conceivably catch the wood on fire and thats not cool. Mix thoroughly, then just use some kind of tools or even gloves to apply a coat of the goo to the area you want, then let it cure for about a half hour, then apply another coat, adding features as you go. This technique can also probably be a good way to texture a wall.
The goo seems to cure pretty well to plywood, though you might want to put something into the wall that sticks out a bit so the goo can fill in the gap and hold to the wall better, for example a lag bolt that sticks out about a quarter of an inch or so.
As i was messing around i dripped a little bit onto one of my sections and it works as a good foot chip and hasnt sheered off as of yet, though i cant speak for larger sections of goo, so you might want to try the sticking-out-lag-bolt idea.
Anyway, thats just an idea, so feel free to try it, it might be a good way to add another cool feature to your wall. If anyone tries it please reply to this thread or PM me.
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kman
Oct 10, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Let us know how it works out!!
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squish
Oct 10, 2003, 12:44 AM
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Very good ideas!
Have you considered drilling some small holes through your plywood instead of using lag bolts? The bondo could simply form a plug. Perhaps cover the back of the hole with masking tape if the bondo is too runny?
I'm thinking this would be lower profile than gluing over lag bolts, and might provide just enough support, especially for larger areas. And after all, you say that a simple dripped-on foot chip hasn't sheared off yet...
Just another idea.
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bertman
Oct 10, 2003, 12:49 AM
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thats a good idea too.
im thinking of pouring a bunch all over a panel of my wall, leaving enough room around the t-nuts for holds to still be placed/changed. That way, i wouldnt need foot chips cuz i could use natural features. Of course, if i got sick of a certain configuration, i could modify it by adding some more on certain parts, as long as they were always small features such as foot placements, otherwise changing it would make it very bulky very fast...
i cant wait till the sun comes up tomorrow (no school) so i can try it out!
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squish
Oct 10, 2003, 12:55 AM
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In reply to: changing it would make it very bulky very fast... |
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flying_dutchman
Oct 10, 2003, 1:04 AM
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pour the goop onto the plywood sections before you mount em, then you wouldn't have to worry about the stuff dripping off. Just takes a little planning ahead.
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bertman
Oct 10, 2003, 1:07 AM
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well its not the dripping off thats the problem, its the fact that the goop tends to settle before drying, so to make, say, a lip that sticks out you would have to let the first part dry, then add layers sequentially, kind of like building a goop food pyramid. Then if it was a bit goofy looking you could pull out that grinder idea to even it out :P
Sandblasting also adds an interesting texture, but due to the fact that you would have to do do open sanding it would be a waste of sand. Not to mention sand itself isnt the best blasting medium to use. Starblast or Black Magnum tend to be a bit more aggressive.
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gemiller
Oct 10, 2003, 12:11 PM
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Hmm, If someone who finishes this please post a pic, I am going to be building my wall soon and would like to see what this will look like.
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coclimber26
Oct 12, 2003, 1:27 AM
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Sounds good. The epoxy mix adheres well to cement and ok to plywood. It should work fine. The same mix that you have can be used to glue real rocks to your wall aswell. Have you though of inset holds? There is a company out now (can't remember the name) that makes 3ft sections of incut crack holds. Basically you cut out a slot in your wall 3ft long and screw the hold in and it's recessed. I started making my own holds recently and it is going well. It cuts costs by about 1/3 from buying premade holds.....good luck.
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rideandclimbkid
Nov 26, 2003, 1:55 AM
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there are 2 parts to 2-part epoxy.(hmm look at that) you have the epoxy which is the actual strength-bearing half, and you have the hardener. hardener serves no bonding or supporting purpose. more hardener will solidify your compound faster, however it compromises strength. too little, and the epoxy will not completely dry. epoxy does not air-dry. the hardener removes electrons from certain elements of the epoxy, thus making them unstable. unstable atoms seek other unstable atoms...the epoxy bonds to itself. heat is a byproduct of this chemical reaction. heat does not solidify the epoxy. my point is.....50:50 produces a good hold. 20:80 hardener produces a weak hold. 20:80 epoxy will only dry to the touch. it will not chemically "dry"
just clearin up some misconceptions of epoxy
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cragmasterp
Nov 26, 2003, 3:37 AM
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"This is all theory thus far, because i havent done it yet, but im just posting this so people can try it out and give feedback."
sorry dude
bondo does not work for cracks
i have tried bondo and it lasts for a few sessions then cracks, sometimes leaving sharp shards behind.
I have found that just taking a grinder with an aggressive disc to a pair of 2x8's and painting them with paint mixed with sandblaster media (not too aggresive) then mounting them a good handjam's width apart, and backed with plywood so you can't reach through to be the most effective homeade cracks.
My wall has a variety of cracks made this way in everything from fingers to off width to overhanging hands to flaired horizontals. I originally did try bondo to create texture but it all has snapped off of the wood, leaving nasty sharp shards behind.
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trguy
Dec 17, 2003, 12:56 AM
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The goop recipe works great. We've been making our holds and texturing our home made cracks out of this for years. Even textured a 700 sq ft slab. Might check your local plastics shops for polyester resin you can probably get it cheaper there.
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