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cjstudent
Feb 27, 2004, 5:58 PM
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Ok so I'm expanding my rack for NC Trad and my trip out to Moab this summer.
Right now I have a full set of Camalots from .1-#3 with some doubles in some sizes. I'm looking to get some Aliens to supplement my micros, and am torn between the Hybrids and regular Aliens. I know that the cam lobes are different sizes but are the Hybrids really worth the extra touble of (finding) them? This isn't a Alien vs. other cam discussion, just Alien vs. Alien Hybrid. I used some Aliens this past weekend and loved those things...so as $$ allows I'm gonna grab some. (Or tell my partner "You need to start buying a rack...") Haha
Thanks
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drkodos
Feb 27, 2004, 6:20 PM
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If you are buying with Moab in mind I am thinking regular aliens would be better.
That being said, in general I prefer to have the hybrids if I had to choose one or the other, but that is based on the type of rock and features I climb. The other downsode is that the hybrids are only available in four small sizes, where as regular Aliens are availabl in a larger range.
In general, I think more cracks are irregulary sided than have completely parallel sides.
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pornstarr
Feb 27, 2004, 6:34 PM
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if one were to buy only a few in the smaller sizes (the hybrid range, so to speak), would you go with regular or hybrids? I guess what i wanna know is; Is there still a working range (albeit smaller) for the hybrids in more parallel cracks?
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drkodos
Feb 27, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Yes there is a working range in parallel cracks, and it is smaller. In the small sizes the difference between hybrid 1/2-3/8" and the 3/8" (blue) are not too discernable, but is noticeable.
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tedc
Feb 27, 2004, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: if one were to buy only a few in the smaller sizes (the hybrid range, so to speak), would you go with regular or hybrids? I guess what i wanna know is; Is there still a working range (albeit smaller) for the hybrids in more parallel cracks?
If you palce a hybrid in a parallell crack you will basically end up with to good cam lobes (assuming you choose the best sized hybrid) and to really undercammed lobes; or possibly even "floaters"(either way; very likely to invert when loaded). In desert sandstone two good lobes is pretty marginal (at best) for any real fall.
Did that answer your question?
If not: Buy/Use hybrids for falres, not "splitters".
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cjstudent
Feb 27, 2004, 8:17 PM
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Thats basically what I'm looking for. Thanks
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a_scender
Feb 21, 2006, 10:33 PM
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I just want to back up what tedc already said. The hybrids are excellent in flared cracks, but not a good idea in a parrallel splitter. I have a set of hybrids and have never used them in the creek, but they are useful from some desert aid climbing (Zion) and granite where there are often flares. My point being, don't think that you can use four alien hybrids to cover the size of eight regular cams. This would be a really bad idea, in my opinion.
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caughtinside
Feb 21, 2006, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: I just want to back up what tedc already said.
...two years ago?
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