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flamer
Mar 18, 2004, 11:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Unprotected sex in a RED ROCKS bathhouse
Thursday March 18th, 2004.
I've been climbing in Red rocks for 3 days now, done some great routes and met a cool new partner.
By today my fingers are alittle raw, my legs alittle woren out, and my body is generally fatigued.
So what's next? It's SOLO time!!
I've been looking at some routes in Red Rocks that would make good car to car speed solo's, and decide on Jonny Vegas.
The route is supposed to be of high quality, it's very moderate, the hike isn't to far(but not to short!), and the descent is uncomplicated.
PERFECT!
So after a night of blackjack(and fifty bucks richer) it's time to have some quick fun in beatiful oak creek canyon.
THE DRIVE
I have this old punk CD, it's a compilation of bands from the Epitaph label...And it gets me amped up!! It's my CD of choice for pre speed 'o stuff so I plug it in. When I go thru check point charley the guy at the booth smiles at my golden eagle pass, glance's at my truck and says " have a good day climbing!", I smile and wish him well. Then laugh to myself- "HuH, HuH, he said 'day'".
Now normally I drive pretty fast. But when I'm all amped up for something like this and the punk rock vibe is flowing, I drive really fast.
The tourist's on the loop road look at me like I'm nuts as I squeeze by them on the left. Come on people this is a 2 lane road!!
The turn off to the oak creek trail head comes quick and I tear a$$ down the short gravel approach road. Of course I forget about the bump in the road and catch some air, but that's what trucks are for right?
I slide to a stop with my dust trail engulfing me.
Several cars in the lot but no people- GOOD! They would only ruin my vibe.
GETTING STARTED
I gear up- lightweight alpine harness, daisy chain, rappel device, 50M X 9MM rope(tied to my back), shoes, chalk.
I force myself to stretch, it's always hard to do this when I'm ready to charge. But it always pays me back when I start moving.
My watch set to chrono, I toe the imaginary line made up by the sign at the start of the trail, BEEP!! I start the watch and am off!!
I hate the first 2-3 minutes of cardio, it hurts!! I know it's better to warm up first, but da*n it I already stretched!! I push through the"you can't do this too me" feeling my body gives and am now making good time down the trail.
I'm noticing that my sense's are starting to pull in, heighten if you will.
I see the lizard's running their daredevil paths in front of me. This makes me happy, I'm of the belief that these little guys are good luck for climbers. Seeing them push's me further down my path towards the"focus".
THE FOCUS
For me soloing bring's me so far into myself that the only things that matter are what is right in front of me.
Sometimes I get this from doing things other than free soloing, but never is it more pure.
The focus is dangerous for me, it's addictive. I crave it.
I keep it in check by staying within my limit's, and thinking things through ahead of time. What will I do if something goes wrong? What are my options? I memorize these options and they come into play when I need them.
THE BASE
I make the base of the climb in just over 20 minutes. Not bad. Not great.
On the way I notice 2 party's on the route, I hope they're cool.
I sit and switch shoes. A 2 minute time waster.
"Off belay" yells the guy just finishing the first pitch, "you're off" comes the female reply.
Then she start's singing, what a lovely voice!
I scramble up to the base and say "hi! what's your name?" She tells me (and I forgot), and I tell her I like her singing, she blush's and says she didn't know I was down there. I ask if I can climb through, she hesitate's then says "ok, but there are 2 people ahead of us as well", I thank her and am off.
THE CLIMB
Knobs. Classic Red Rocks Knobs.
I fly up the first pitch. When I reach the belay I meet the girls partner. "where ya' from?" "Duluth, Mn." "cool! Sorry if I'm in your way your partner said I could pass"- "no problem I've never seen a soloist before". Pitch 2 away I go!!
More knobs. Then some smaller knobs at the "crux".
I catch team number 2 while they are racking for pitch 3.
"HI!" I say they greet me and say I can pass. They are also from Duluth and are friends of the first team. Thanks for letting me pass!! Nice people from Duluth!!
Pitch three- you guessed it Knobs!!
Pitch4? Slab...and super easy. I motor up the final slabs and top out. Watch says 33 minutes. The route took me just under 13 minutes. SWEET!! I moving well. And I feel awesome.
I head over to the solar slab gully and begin my descent.
THE DESCENT
Now I brought the rope along because there are fixed rappels down this gully and I wasn't sure if I'd want to down climb them all. The rope never left my back.
I come across 2 guys from Montana who had simul climb solar slab. They were gracious enough to let me pass through and even waited to throw their ropes until I was clear. Thanks guys!!
The bottom section of this gully was alittle weird to down climb so I did some traversing to find the easiest path. Even though I could have just rapped I know that dealing with the rope would kill to much time. And I'm feeling plenty solid.
Back at the base, watch says 50 minutes. DA*N!! I don't think I'll break an hour!
I switch shoes again- 2 more wasted minutes!!
THE FINAL DASH
Down the trail I go!!
Crashing through bushs, sliding down slippery slopes, and bounding over rocks.
I always laugh at what this must look like, to someone watching me.
My slightly out of control head long tumble down small climbers trails. Rope swinging wildly on my back, catching on everything. Eyes ablaze with a healthy mix of Adrealine and endorphine's. Sweat!!
I get back to the main trail and really start to run.
I finally yield to the loose mix of sand and stones that make up this trail and almost take a spill. But I catch myself without lossing any momentum, and keep pushing.
Almost there....BEEP!!! I hit my watch just as I cross my trail's-end finish line.
1 hour 8 minutes 15 seconds.
Not too bad for an onsight free solo!
WHY??
Some people will ask why I would do such a thing?
My answer is the focus. When I'm in focus nothing else matters.
My body preforms without thought, my mind is sharp. It feels good!!!
Am I risk taker?? Maybe. But I'd rather die in focus than sitting on the couch watching Dr Phil, eating potato chips.
ADDITIONAL THOUGHTS
Red rocks lends itself to Car to car speed climbing like few other climbing areas.
Whether you are climbing with a partner or solo, the possibilties for this type of climbing in RR are awesome!!
In addition you have the loop road, which lends itself to "human powered link ups"
For example; You could park at Check point charley, jump on your bike, ride the loop road, leave your bike at the trailhead, run the trail do the climb, get back on your bike and stop your watch back at CPC!!
A climbing triathalon!!!
Also Johnny Vegas will easily go under an hour. Probably under 45 minutes. Next time no rope, and hopefully I'll be in better shape. Plus Knowing where the route goes will be beneficial!
Hope you've enjoyed my story....
josh
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ratstar
Mar 18, 2004, 11:40 PM
Post #2 of 22
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Registered: Jan 11, 2001
Posts: 1144
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So not what I was expecting.
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cliffmonkey2003
Mar 18, 2004, 11:45 PM
Post #3 of 22
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 191
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Yup, can't be judged by the title. Sounds like a hoot Flamer, you've bigger balls and less brains than I do. :lol: Just kidding man, but soloing is insane.
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flamer
Mar 18, 2004, 11:51 PM
Post #4 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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I was refering to kalcario's description of free soloing- He said it's like having unprotected gay sex in a San Francisco bath house....
josh
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flamer
Mar 18, 2004, 11:52 PM
Post #5 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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HEY!!! Somebody changed the title!!!!
Oh well guess this is a family site and all....sure would be nice if they TOLD ME THEY WERE GOING TOO DO IT!!!!!
josh
Forget it I did get a PM ...thank you.
josh
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flamer
Mar 19, 2004, 12:01 AM
Post #6 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: Atsa my boy! So hunny, this is Mom speaking - did you remember to pack your galoshes? :lol:
Nope I left those in Colorado...this is the desert lady!!!
It's all flip flops and Margerita's down here!!!
josh
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peas
Mar 19, 2004, 1:15 AM
Post #8 of 22
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400
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This title got changed, but I've been seeing "Masterbation in a Whorehouse" on the front page for a while now. Go figure.
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flamer
Mar 19, 2004, 1:25 AM
Post #9 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Just to put it to rest I have been contatced by the person who changed it, and they have been very cool about it.
You'll notice that the title has been added to the top of the TR, this is a probably a better place for it.
Thanks for the good comments guys! I tried to right it short and sweet- kind'a like the climb.
josh
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calamity_chk
Mar 19, 2004, 2:15 AM
Post #10 of 22
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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In reply to: I smile and wish him well. Then laugh to myself- "HuH, HuH, he said 'day'".
In reply to: I scramble up to the base and say "hi! what's your name?" She tells me (and I forgot)
In reply to: Now normally I drive pretty fast. But when I'm all amped up for something like this and the punk rock vibe is flowing, I drive really fast. |
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flamer
Mar 22, 2004, 9:43 PM
Post #11 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: having been a passenger when flamer was in a hurry, all i've gotta say is, if you see a black truck tearing ass in your general direction - MOVE. :lol:
First off it's GREEN. And second- you got to the airport on time didn't you???
josh
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wigglestick
Mar 22, 2004, 10:01 PM
Post #12 of 22
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
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Hey, everybody don't let Josh fool you. He loves Dr. Phil as much as the next guy.
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stinkwagen
Mar 22, 2004, 10:05 PM
Post #13 of 22
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Registered: Mar 11, 2004
Posts: 9
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Hey Flamer,
Excellent TR. It so well captured that hurried, reckless, havin' fun feeling. http://www.rockclimbing.com/icons/thumbsup.gif
Drivin' that f*kd loop road must have been excruciating with that kind of energy.
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flamer
Mar 22, 2004, 10:30 PM
Post #14 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: Hey, everybody don't let Josh fool you. He loves Dr. Phil as much as the next guy.
Matt!! I thought you dropped off the face....
It's summertime, let's climb!
Me and The good doctor go way back....
josh
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reno
Mar 24, 2004, 4:37 AM
Post #15 of 22
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
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Heck yeah! Thanks for the great read, my brother! Wish I coulda been there (you and I ain't roped up in a LONG time...) but duty called.
While you were off climbing, drinking, and hanging out with good-looking climbing women, I was here in the cesspool: saving lives, stomping out disease, and serving the healthcare needs of the public.
Great TR, dude. Thanks again!
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wigglestick
Mar 24, 2004, 3:24 PM
Post #16 of 22
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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In reply to: In reply to: Hey, everybody don't let Josh fool you. He loves Dr. Phil as much as the next guy. Matt!! I thought you dropped off the face.... It's summertime, let's climb! Me and The good doctor go way back.... josh
I am still here, lurking in the shadows. Newly single and looking for trouble. We can climb sometime but I ain't doing no running or anything like that.
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flamer
May 6, 2004, 4:16 AM
Post #17 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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With all the current talk about soloing, I figured I'd bump this TR to the top. Maybe stir the pot a little.....sure was fun.
josh
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calamity_chk
May 6, 2004, 3:46 PM
Post #18 of 22
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Registered: Apr 23, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: having been a passenger when flamer was in a hurry, all i've gotta say is, if you see a black truck tearing ass in your general direction - MOVE. :lol: First off it's GREEN. And second- you got to the airport on time didn't you??? josh
if it's green, it must be a dark green. (btw, does getting colors wrong mean i'm fired from being a girl?)
and yes, i did get to the airport on time - thank you, sir. and it was very much appreciated. :righton:
In reply to: I am still here, lurking in the shadows. Newly single and looking for trouble. We can climb sometime but I ain't doing no running or anything like that. |
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climboard
May 6, 2004, 5:50 PM
Post #19 of 22
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Sounds like a great time!
Well, except for the running part...
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coclimber26
May 29, 2004, 3:03 AM
Post #20 of 22
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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Good piece of writing. There is nothing better then climbing efficiently up a moderate by yourself, in your comfort zone...the only thing I would have changed were more details of the route and the movement..my two cents.
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t.vegas
Deleted
May 29, 2004, 5:32 AM
Post #21 of 22
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Great TR man....
I climb at Red Rock every week, and sometimes it takes a piece like this to make me take a look around and appreciate the place from a different
point of view...rock on. :robert:
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flamer
May 29, 2004, 3:34 PM
Post #22 of 22
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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In reply to: Great TR man.... I climb at Red Rock every week, and sometimes it takes a piece like this to make me take a look around and appreciate the place from a different point of view...rock on. :robert:
Glad you liked it!
I'm stoked that it might have motivated you a bit!
josh
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