|
crackbaby
Apr 8, 2002, 5:51 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1123 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2001
Posts: 18
|
Ok all you folks who know all the climbibng lingo, I have some questions for you. In Vol 210 of climbing magazine is an article about a speed record on El Capitan. They did it in some way where both climbers were able to climb at once, called simul-climbing. But, what is "Short-fixing an anchor", "rope soloing", and "french freeing".
If someone could explain the whole process that they went through, it'd be really cool. Thanks,
|
|
|
|
|
gekolimit
Apr 8, 2002, 8:03 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1123 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 20, 2002
Posts: 144
|
IT would take some time (which i don't have at the mo) for me to explain all that. I just wanted to say
THAT ARTICLE IS FRICKING BRILIANT.
What was it, 3 and a half hours for 1100m?
I'll come back tomorrow to write up an answer If no-one else has in the mean time. Sorry.
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Apr 8, 2002, 3:13 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1123 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
I'll take a stab at these. You might also want to look at the rockclimbing.com climbing terms section under the heading of articles.
French Free- This term basically means cheating. But in the context of speed climbing it is not necessarily a bad thing. It means that you are free climbing and you cheat occasionally by pulling on a piece of gear. You can imagine how much faster you could climb a section if you yanked on a quickdraw through the hard parts of the pitch.
Rope Soloing- You are soloing, i.e. you are climbing by yourself or without somebody belaying you, yet you are still using a rope to catch you should you fall. In short you tie the belayer's end of the rope to the anchor and then using either a special solo-belay device or a series of clove hitches you belay yourself using the same techniques that you would use if you were being belayed in the traditional method.
Short-Fixing - Imagine you and your partner are trying to climb fast, real fast. You have a 60 meter rope and you lead a 45 meter pitch aid pitch. Now usually you would tie off the lead rope and sit on your butt while you wait for your partner to jug/clean the pitch. But since you are trying to climb fast and don't want to waste any time. You short-fix and continue climbing. You bring up the 15 meters or so of slack that is left in the lead line and then tie it off for your partner to ascend. Then you continue on to the next pitch using the roped solo techniques that were explained above. Then when your partner gets to the top of the pitch they put you on belay and you are already 25% of the way up the next pitch.
I hope that all makes sense.
|
|
|
|
|
roadtrip
Apr 9, 2002, 9:47 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1123 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 63
|
Well said, wigglestick!
|
|
|
|
|
|
