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salami
Apr 15, 2004, 7:56 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Anyone free this? if so got any tips? it goes at 5.10 but 5.10 what??????
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lambone
Apr 15, 2004, 8:42 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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Steep 5.10
Consistantly overhanging corner at about 20 degrees.
Finger to hand size. Lots of good pro-small nuts to mid size cams.
A bit rotten at the end.
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fern
Apr 15, 2004, 10:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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I don't remember it being too steep - though I took a 30footer from below the little overlap that was all air, so I guess it must be fairly steep. I remember the middle section having LOTS of birdsh!t (my fall was due to a cam popping from a crap-filled flare). I though the supertopo said 10c, but that may have been on the IAD speedsupersupertopo that was printed in one of the mags last year.
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bandycoot
Apr 15, 2004, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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The pitch is not as steep as lambone remembers. It is probably 2-3 degrees overhung up to two overlaps. Total overhang for the pitch is 10-15'. I just rappeled this route last weekend, and got to bounce and swing into the anchor so I know it isn't a full 20 degrees because that pitch is LONG and the bouncing and swinging would have been even MORE out of control!
I second the poor rock quality at the end. It isn't horrible, but my wife got lulled into complacency leading and plugged a cam, backcleaned and stepped up to see the rock quality SUCKED. She yelled down about the sketchy placement and I got to watch her take a 25' rag doll fall. It was pretty funny in retrospect. I was a little worried at first, because she swung into the wall a little.
Josh
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lambone
Apr 16, 2004, 4:24 AM
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yeah ok, maybe not 20 degrees...but it will feel like it...
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wonderbread
Apr 16, 2004, 2:22 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2002
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It's not 5.10. When Houlding freed the route he called that pitch 11+. And it looks much closer to 11+ than 10.
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moabbeth
Apr 16, 2004, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Hey Salami....I noticed you posed the same question over at supertopo too. Out of curiousity, where has the best advice came from and have you found it useful?
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iamthewallress
Apr 16, 2004, 11:49 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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It was A0 for me (I jugged my partner C1 lead), but a friend of mine gave it a solid 5.10++++ rating. (i.e. I was warned not to get any bright ideas...)
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