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golgiapp
Jun 11, 2004, 12:43 AM
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Looking for a place in New England to work on some mountaineering skills this winter. Mainly looking to practice building snow anchors, placing ice screws/pickets and roped travel. While I realize some of this might not be possible or necessary I would be mainly using this as a chance to learn some new stuff. First thought was the presidential range but any other ideas/suggestions are welcome.
Thanks all!
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motomagik
Jun 11, 2004, 1:32 AM
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Mt. Washington - specifically Tuckerman's/Huntington ravines. Be careful!
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golgiapp
Jun 11, 2004, 2:54 AM
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I'm leaning away from the presidentials and have heard that around stowe,vt there might be some good places to practice some stuff. If anyone has done any trips like this let me know. All suggestions are appreciated!
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jimdavis
Jun 11, 2004, 2:55 AM
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NH or Baxter in Maine.
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sixleggedinsect
Jul 20, 2004, 2:56 AM
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why are you 'leaning away from the presidentials'? there are some fun snow climbs in huntington ravine that would give you the practise you're looking for, with good scenery. and if you get sketched out, you can generally find rock pro in the sides of the gullies.
pick a day with nice weather, read the avy forecast, dont do anything silly, bring the right gear. good outing!
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ninjaslut
Jul 20, 2004, 3:06 AM
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Mt Laffayette kicks azz in the winter. And if you're in a rush on the way out, just sit in the snow and let gavity to the rest...4 1/2 hours up, 1 1/2 down.
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powen
Jul 20, 2004, 3:53 AM
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I practiced all that in Conway, NH on and around Mount Washington. Unless you're a wanted man and have warrants out for your arrest, I'll be so bold as to suggest the area. :) Either way, have fun!
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drake
Jul 20, 2004, 12:17 PM
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If you want tohead over to Stowe, you might want to check out Smugglers Notch. This is an ice climbing area that can be seen from the ski resort. I guess you could practice placing screws but I'm not sure about pickets.
Does the snow in the northeast get deep enough to place pickets?
Drake
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 20, 2004, 12:51 PM
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Smuggs has some pretty steep snow and avalanch danger but it is missing the wind that makes everything so real up on mt washington. You would be crazy to not go to Mt washington for alpine training here in the N,east. Don't get me wrong. Smuggs is awsome but it ain't as big as Mt Washington. Smuggs is the better place to train for steep alpine techical stuff WI4+ hard mixed etc.
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sixleggedinsect
Jul 20, 2004, 3:42 PM
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In reply to: Does the snow in the northeast get deep enough to place pickets?
um, yes. its chilly and white up north in the winter. tuckerman's (though racked by avalanches in the winter, and therefore not your ideal training ground) has around 50 feet snow at its deepest point. therefore, i suggest you bring 45 foot pickets for maximim hold.
plenty of snow depth on the huntington gullies for pickets, less avalanche, and better view. if you dont want to climb technical stuff, you could prob find good places to mess around in the shallower slope below the gullies
cheers.
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golgiapp
Jul 20, 2004, 3:50 PM
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The only reason I was thinking against Mt Washington was that from all I've gathered the weather might be too nasty to get any instructional stuff in. As long as I have a backup location or two I'm hoping to give Mt Washington a shot.
I'm thinking of heading there in mid december, presuming it all works out with the people who would be teaching me. What areas/climbs on Mt Washington would you suggest for learning/instructional purposes?
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tradmanclimbs
Jul 20, 2004, 4:16 PM
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Even if the weather is horrible if you are tough enough you should be able to clinic on the fan in many locations below the climbs. Extreemly moderate gully climbs are south gully, central gully, and diagonal. All the gullys make excelent winter mountainering adventures. Pinnical is the most crouded and has the most grade 3 ice in it. Conditions varry drasticly as to how much snow or ice is in any of the gullys and avalanches do kill people. have fun 8^)
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golgiapp
Oct 29, 2004, 2:42 PM
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As of now I'm leaning towards going to the adirondacks, probably mid december depending on conditions. Can any one recommend some good routes or areas. We are looking at hiking in, establishing a signifigant base camp (practice building snow camps) and from there go out and practce self arrest, snow anchors and hopefully get up some peaks. Any ideas/suggestions?
Also do any of the outfitters in the area rent plastic boots?
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shakylegs
Oct 29, 2004, 2:52 PM
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If you go to the 'Dacks, contact Rock and River. I've heard, from another user on this board, that they're really good. Besides, they have lodging and will prepare your lunch. And you pretty much always count on snow there.
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thedesertnomad
Oct 29, 2004, 3:18 PM
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In reply to: The only reason I was thinking against Mt Washington was that from all I've gathered the weather might be too nasty to get any instructional stuff in. As long as I have a backup location or two I'm hoping to give Mt Washington a shot. I'm thinking of heading there in mid december, presuming it all works out with the people who would be teaching me. What areas/climbs on Mt Washington would you suggest for learning/instructional purposes?
Tuckerman's ravine is a classic (just be very very very aware of possible avalanche activity) get the reports, learn what conditions are most dangerous and above all be careful, and let people know where you are going. I have also had lots of fun right on the AT in ME (I think Bald Pate Mtn for one) great huge amounts of deep snow and some steep sides perfest for practicing snow camps. If the bad weather hits Washington, ME is nice cuz it tends to have some steep areas in heavy trees (less dangerous), bad weather in my opinion is a great opportunity to build your camp skills as opposed to tackling a gully or ravine that could potentially dump on you)
2 words of wisdom in a snow shelter... candle lantern... woo hoo
be safe, have fun
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olderic
Oct 29, 2004, 3:40 PM
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The more flexible you can be - with dates and location - the better your odds of success - duh. That said - if your priorities are lots of snow and pleasent conditions I wouldn't be looking anyplace in New England in December. Statistically there won't be that much snow (could happen but it is becoming increasingly rare) and for sure you are going to have less day light and probably pretty cold temperatures. March is the time to go for nice conditions, lots more day light and probably a lot more snow. But you may not be that flexible. You've gotten suggestions all over the northeast as to where to go. Anyone of them could work, but I would suggest that you will have the most options and the most flexibility if you head to NH. If it's nice you can go high - Tucks (right gully), Huntington (South), King's (Great). If there is avy danger and/or high winds/bitter cold but you want to do something long then try Crawford Notch Mt Webster (Shoestring) or Franconia Notch (Walker ravine). If conditions are really bad then Willey's Slide or low in Silver Cascade could be options. The snow camping might be a little more contrived (although a base camp in King's Ravine would be fine) but you will have more options to move around as conditions warrent in NH then in the Daks. Of course you could luck out and hit perfect conditions in the Daks )although I still have my doubts about December).
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cfnubbler
Oct 29, 2004, 3:41 PM
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While the Prezies are the best choice in NE, Smuggler's Notch would be a fine choice as well, as it has numerous steepish snow gullies. As mentioned, there is sometimes significant avalanche hazards in them, but none the less, in good condition they're great for what you're after. Cass's Gully is an easy and enjoyable snow climb. An ascent of Hidden Gully to the 2nd snowfield saddle with a descent down Easy Gully is CLASSIC, fun, and pretty much ideal for your purposes. There are other options as well, but a Hidden/Easy traverse is a superb introduction, as long as one 10ft stretch of grade 3ish ice doesn't deter you- but hey, that's one place you'd place a screw!
As for Tradman's comment about the winds, while it doesn't get as gnarly as Washington, Smuggs can get PLENTY windy. PM me if you want more beta.
-Nubbler
PS-
In summer Smugss also has some superb and little known rock climbing, and I don't mean all that pebble-wrestling down by the road!
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golgiapp
Oct 30, 2004, 4:32 AM
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I do have some flexibility with dates. Either Dec 11 thru the 18 or the last week of March. What's Mt. Washington at that time of the year. If you had to pick between the two which time would you go? Or maybe I can just do both.
Thanks for all the area suggestions everyone. I've been lookin up info on them and they all look pretty good.
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iceisnice
Nov 21, 2004, 11:50 PM
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hey, did a bunch of winter climbing around the daks a few years ago. for a truly good moutnaineering exp. try the north face of Gothics. When i did it, it was 2,000ft of ice/frozen snow. was pretty tough. there are tons of ice climbing options. a real fun thing is to solo climb chapel pond slab. 700ft of wi2-3. poke-o-moonshine has some intense ice routes on it too. if you want a more "mountaineering" exp. try the Trapdike on Mt. Coulden. that is pretty fun as a solo too. your best bet though is Gothics.
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guanoboy
Dec 1, 2004, 12:47 AM
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shoestring gulley and willey's slide in the whites are fun. The black dyke on cannon is great - but pretty much just ice.
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