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plan_b
May 22, 2002, 11:50 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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Hi,
I was wondering.. When you buy some quickdraws, you'll sometimes find the 'tight' end of the stitched sling on the biner that you clip the rope into (let's call this the 'bottom biner'), and sometimes you'll find it on the other biner ('top biner'). Of course, you can still change it to your liking
I've heard that it is best to put the tight end on the bottom biner, so that clipping the rope in is easier because the biner is steadied by the tight end.
Is anyone doing it differently for safety (or other) reasons ?
Would it make any difference where you put it in regard to preventing the top biner from unclipping itself from the bolt/piton/whatever ?
Any ideas
Thanks !
PS : correct terminology for top & bottom biner anyone ?
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killclimbz
May 22, 2002, 12:57 PM
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If you only have one "tight end" on your draw I would always have the clipping biner on that end. This keeps it from flipping around and giving you a hard time clipping it. Some draws have both ends sewn tight. Black Mambas are this way. I prefer to have the bolt end of the draw loose. That way if the biner hangs funny (like over an edge) and can be fixed by flipping I will.
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clymber
May 22, 2002, 1:18 PM
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I always use the tight end when im clipping into the gear or bolt....its easier to clip and when you are clipping the rope in youare holding the biner already so why does it need to be stiff
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jt512
May 22, 2002, 4:44 PM
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The top end should be loose, so that the draw can pivot around the biner as the climber passes the bolt. This helps prevent the biner's spine (or gate, if you've got your draws set up in the less safe opposed configuration) from getting pulled into the hanger when the climber passes and continues up past the bolt.
-Jay
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fishbait
May 22, 2002, 5:14 PM
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Hey jt512,
What is, "the less safe opposed configuration."? Are you referring to the direction of the gates on the two biners? Maybe I misunderstood you. I didn't think it mattered.
Personally I have my draws set up so that the gates are facing the same direction. It's just easier to 'point' the gate a particular direction if all the draws are set up the same.
I always set the 'fixed' biner at the rope end. If you're working a route and continually pulling the rope, it just assures that the rope-biner won't flip upside down and is always in the right position to clip on your next attempt. It's always a pain when you're in the middle of a crux trying to clip and find that the rope-biner is upside down...
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jt512
May 22, 2002, 6:08 PM
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Quote:What is, "the less safe opposed configuration."? Are you referring to the direction of the gates on the two biners?
Yes, that is what I'm referring to. See my explanation here.
-Jay
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plan_b
May 22, 2002, 8:56 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2002
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Thanks people !
To recap what I've gathered on quickdraws from this thread, the one JT512 referred to and some other resources :
1) Rope biner gate should be directed away from the intended climbing trajectory to prevent the rope from unclipping itself in case of a fall.
2) Rope to belayer should enter the rope biner at the backside (i.e. between wall and biner) and come out of the frontside (i.e. away from the wall), again to prevent the rope from unclipping itself in case of a fall.
3) Bolt & rope biner gates should face same direction, so the gate on the bolt biner isn't loaded when the quickdraw is rotated by the rope. This lessens the likelihood of the bolt biner unclipping itself.
4) The tight end of the sling goes on the rope biner and not on the bolt biner so that the latter can move freely and is not affected when the quickdraw is rotated by the rope. This lessens the likelyhood of the bolt biner unclipping itself. Added benefit : easier rope clipping.
5) Always use the same biner to clip the bolt. Clipping the bolt may slightly damage the biner which could in turn damage the rope if it were ever used as a rope biner.
6) Elvis lives !
Gotta love this forum
Thanks again
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krazykarl
May 27, 2002, 10:47 PM
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Registered: May 27, 2002
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I think you covered all the bases at least as I understand quickdraws. I like your summary.
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