|
rschap
Feb 29, 2012, 5:58 AM
Post #1 of 55
(14027 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
|
I see posts on here all the time complaining about the BS rules they have to deal with at their local gym. What do you consider too strict?
|
|
|
|
|
singletrackmike
Feb 29, 2012, 11:23 AM
Post #2 of 55
(13978 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2009
Posts: 41
|
I draw the line at electric obedience underwear.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Feb 29, 2012, 2:17 PM
Post #5 of 55
(13936 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
I don't know if it falls in the too strict category, but I think it's idiotic when there is not a staff member on duty who can approve a lead belay test.
Not allowing the customer to decide what modern belay device they will use, or at least some options.
Not allowing variation in safe belay technique. For instance, a gym I went to in TN required always keeping both hands on the brake strand (for TR) - so you had to pull slack through the device, very tiring on the shoulders.
Personally I like a gym that allows me to use my own rope to lead with. Usually gym lead ropes are pretty beat.
I dislike not being able to instruct others in a gym but I kind of understand the financial aspects of that. Though perhaps it's shortsighted.
Age requirements for belaying and leading - but at least so far they are only minimum and not maximum!
No loose chalk kind of sucks.
|
|
|
|
|
billl7
Feb 29, 2012, 2:53 PM
Post #6 of 55
(13906 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
|
j_ung wrote: I think a gym becomes too strict when its staff doesn't know why the rules exist, and doesn't possess the judgment and empowerment to make an appropriate exception. Just as a Gri-gri is a poor substitute for a competent belay, a cast-iron rule set is no substitute for well-trained staff.
Well said.
|
|
|
|
|
dindolino32
Feb 29, 2012, 4:28 PM
Post #7 of 55
(13855 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2008
Posts: 155
|
a local gym in my town requires you to toptope re-certify every six months, if you don't then you have to "challenge" that you can do it (which is $8). I don't always go there as I go to the gym that I set routes. When I do, I can only boulder because otherwise I waste money
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Feb 29, 2012, 4:43 PM
Post #8 of 55
(13844 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
No barefoot.
I'm referring to just walking around on the padded floor with your shoes off between climbs not actually climbing barefoot.
Actually climbing barefoot doesn't bother me but I realize that most gyms won't allow that as the average customer is going to be squeamish about that - even though statistically way more cooties are on people's hands then feet.
But at least let me walk around barefoot.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 29, 2012, 7:30 PM
Post #10 of 55
(13785 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
The rules about clothing, e.i. only sleeved shirts, and no shorts. Usually happens at climbing walls that are part of a larger conventional gym.
Having to re-do the belay test if you have not been to the gym in a year. I wouldn't mind re-taking the test, But I do very much mind PAYING for it each time.
It is not that big of a hassle to do a belay test, and I can see why they would want to re-test people, because they don't necessarily differentiate between an out-of-town visitor who is a regular climber elsewhere, and a newbie climber who just learned to belay during 2hr class, came in once, and then disappeared for a year and hadn't climbed once in that time period. But there should be a rule that if they have it on file that they have tested you before, you don't need to pay again.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Feb 29, 2012, 9:07 PM
Post #11 of 55
(13734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
lena_chita wrote: The rules about clothing, e.i. only sleeved shirts, and no shorts. Usually happens at climbing walls that are part of a larger conventional gym. Having to re-do the belay test if you have not been to the gym in a year. I wouldn't mind re-taking the test, But I do very much mind PAYING for it each time. It is not that big of a hassle to do a belay test, and I can see why they would want to re-test people, because they don't necessarily differentiate between an out-of-town visitor who is a regular climber elsewhere, and a newbie climber who just learned to belay during 2hr class, came in once, and then disappeared for a year and hadn't climbed once in that time period. But there should be a rule that if they have it on file that they have tested you before, you don't need to pay again.
No shorts? There's a conventional gym that doesn't allow shorts?
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Feb 29, 2012, 9:08 PM
Post #12 of 55
(13733 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
olderic wrote: No barefoot. I'm referring to just walking around on the padded floor with your shoes off between climbs not actually climbing barefoot. Actually climbing barefoot doesn't bother me but I realize that most gyms won't allow that as the average customer is going to be squeamish about that - even though statistically way more cooties are on people's hands then feet. But at least let me walk around barefoot.
Wow, where's that?
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Feb 29, 2012, 9:20 PM
Post #13 of 55
(13718 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
shockabuku wrote: Wow, where's that?
Am I allowed to name (trash) gyms here? Only 1 gym I have experienced this at and its certainly not one of the mainstream ones (despite the fact that it wants to be). Opened with a lot of fanfare 5-6 years ago and quickly fell off the radar of most serious climbers because of all the weirdness - the shoes required policy was just the tip of the ice-berg. Too bad as it had (has) potential.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 29, 2012, 9:25 PM
Post #14 of 55
(13714 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
shockabuku wrote: lena_chita wrote: The rules about clothing, e.i. only sleeved shirts, and no shorts. Usually happens at climbing walls that are part of a larger conventional gym. Having to re-do the belay test if you have not been to the gym in a year. I wouldn't mind re-taking the test, But I do very much mind PAYING for it each time. It is not that big of a hassle to do a belay test, and I can see why they would want to re-test people, because they don't necessarily differentiate between an out-of-town visitor who is a regular climber elsewhere, and a newbie climber who just learned to belay during 2hr class, came in once, and then disappeared for a year and hadn't climbed once in that time period. But there should be a rule that if they have it on file that they have tested you before, you don't need to pay again. No shorts? There's a conventional gym that doesn't allow shorts?
Several climbing walls I've been to that are part of University rec centers. Yeah, I know, ridiculous rule. And usually ignored. But still, the rules are posted...
I have been asked to put on a T-shirt once or twice in some random gyms. I was wearing a tank top. not even a sports bra.
One time it was part of a climbing competition, and they insisted that I should wear the T-shirt that was distributed to all competitors at the beginning. I tried to argue that the T-shirt I was given (size L) came almost to my knees, was more appropriately labeled a body bag, and was extremely uncomfortable to climb in. The rule guy was not budging. I used a scrunchie to tie the extra shirt fabric and keep it contained.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Feb 29, 2012, 10:21 PM
Post #15 of 55
(13681 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
olderic wrote: shockabuku wrote: Wow, where's that? Am I allowed to name (trash) gyms here? Only 1 gym I have experienced this at and its certainly not one of the mainstream ones (despite the fact that it wants to be). Opened with a lot of fanfare 5-6 years ago and quickly fell off the radar of most serious climbers because of all the weirdness - the shoes required policy was just the tip of the ice-berg. Too bad as it had (has) potential.
close to wearing a cape? or close to being wooed? honestly, I can see both gyms doing it. I'd be shocked if it were close to being mystic.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Feb 29, 2012, 10:38 PM
Post #16 of 55
(13671 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Gmburns2000 wrote: close to wearing a cape? or close to being wooed? honestly, I can see both gyms doing it. I'd be shocked if it were close to being mystic.
I would say - close to a beaner
|
|
|
|
|
rsd212
Feb 29, 2012, 10:54 PM
Post #17 of 55
(13658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2008
Posts: 95
|
shockabuku wrote: olderic wrote: No barefoot. Wow, where's that?
I know of two gyms off the top of my head, one is part of a fitness center and another is standalone. One became a problem while I was traveling and only had my tight bouldering shoes with me (no sandals or even loose warmup shoes), and the other was one of those times where I was repeatedly told of my minor rules violations while trying to belay...
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Feb 29, 2012, 11:17 PM
Post #18 of 55
(13646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
olderic wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: close to wearing a cape? or close to being wooed? honestly, I can see both gyms doing it. I'd be shocked if it were close to being mystic. I would say - close to a beaner
yeah, cape and all, that place had potential.
|
|
|
|
|
Traches
Mar 1, 2012, 1:09 AM
Post #19 of 55
(13615 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 26, 2012
Posts: 83
|
Yeah, my gym has a "no barefoot" sign too, they're worried about foot fungus and possible injuries which I suppose is reasonable. They also want you to use chalk balls (I can understand that too, it's insane how fast chalk dust builds up EVERYWHERE) and have a spotter while bouldering (which I've only seen done for cute girls with tight butt...)
Even though signs are posted I've never seen a single person called out for breaking those rules, which happens all the time.
The one hassle that bothered me (at a different gym) was requiring TR belayers to be anchored, and the anchors are all pretty close to the wall so your neck hurts by the end of the day. If you're that worried about your belayer getting carried away by a heavier climber, wrap the rope around a pipe at the top and be done with it.
|
|
|
|
|
rschap
Mar 3, 2012, 3:55 AM
Post #20 of 55
(13472 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
|
singletrackmike wrote: I draw the line at electric obedience underwear.
I'm sorry but that stays.
|
|
|
|
|
rschap
Mar 3, 2012, 4:45 AM
Post #21 of 55
(13459 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
|
Yeah, most of those are pretty lame. Gyms charge for a belay test?!?!?!?! I guess I’m too nice, we don’t even charge for a belay lesson unless it includes repelling. The barefoot on the wall thing is more of a concern with the holds getting greased up twice as fast but I do think it’s gross. We absolutely do not allow anyone to teach in our gym. The average person that comes to our gym and wants to teach their friend doesn’t know what the hell they are talking about. While you maybe someone that does, it’s too hard for us to know till it’s too late.
I completely agree with Jay on the training. We don’t have any real employees as we bought the gym to keep it from going under 2 years ago. It’s been improving to the point where we will probably be able to start having a weekend staff in the next year or less. We have some kids that help us out cleaning the gym for membership and a guy that covers for us on the days we have to have off (he’s the only one over 18). On Monday I’m starting a class for everyone that works for us to teach them the different types of belay (i.e. PBUS, slap slide) and a bunch of other climbing related stuff. I figure it will take 4-5 weeks to really go over everything in detail. Most of them have a good base knowledge but I want to make sure they are on top of their game.
I asked this question because we’re clarifying some of our policies and I wanted to see if we were being reasonable.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Mar 3, 2012, 10:59 AM
Post #22 of 55
(13407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
singletrackmike wrote: I draw the line at electric obedience underwear.
Look, you know how when you've hit the wall month after month? And you've twice rearranged and optimized your training regimen to no avail? You even scoured your dog-eared copy of the 'Self-Coached Climber' again and again for that choice nugget that's going to propel you over the hump, but it didn't buy you a thing...
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Mar 3, 2012, 4:17 PM
Post #23 of 55
(13368 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Ever break a rule you didn't know about and then feel like a COMPLETE asshole? I still can't believe I did this, but I was climbing at a gym in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and after an hour or two it was getting hot. Out of complete habit, I took off my shirt to cool off a little. After I completed the climb, one of the staff members came over and asked me to put my shirt back on. SWEET JESUS I felt like a tool violating their cultural norms like the average "STUPID AMERICAN." i apologized profusely, but still felt guilty. Oh well, live and learn...
I've rarely been to a gym that didn't have rules I disliked, but they're a business trying to stay IN business and are covering their ass.
On the flipside, I'll bet that there are a lot more people who THINK that a rule is stupid and arbitrary but have no clue what they are talking about than bad rules. I just spent 30-45 minutes helping out the desk staff at the gym I occasionally teach at because they failed a customer on the belay test. He was getting testy with them, and since I teach lead climbing in the gym, they sent him my way. I had to explain in detail multiple different ways why it's bad to pinch both strands together with one hand above the belay device while lead belaying. It was a surreal conversation. I wonder if that guy is now on the internet posting about stupid rules in the gym?
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Mar 3, 2012, 4:45 PM
Post #24 of 55
(13361 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
bandycoot wrote: I've rarely been to a gym that didn't have rules I disliked, but they're a business trying to stay IN business and are covering their ass. On the flipside, I'll bet that there are a lot more people who THINK that a rule is stupid and arbitrary but have no clue what they are talking about than bad rules. I just spent 30-45 minutes helping out the desk staff at the gym I occasionally teach at because they failed a customer on the belay test. He was getting testy with them, and since I teach lead climbing in the gym, they sent him my way. I had to explain in detail multiple different ways why it's bad to pinch both strands together with one hand above the belay device while lead belaying. It was a surreal conversation. I wonder if that guy is now on the internet posting about stupid rules in the gym? Josh
What exactly are you saying?
I could have sworn you were poking back at people who call gym rules "too strict" for being ignorant, but all you cited was an example of a remarkably unstrict application of a gym rule, which, by the way, sounds to me like it should have been applied more strictly and the customer simply failed outright.
Anyway, back to the point...
Rules that exist solely to cover a gyms ass are precisely my beef with overly strict gyms. I believe that such rules in fact often make the gym less safe, rather than more. If it hasn't already happened, some day a gym customer will kill or injure a climber, because he was forced to belay in an unfamiliar manner with an unfamiliar device. How covered will the gym's ass be then?
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Mar 3, 2012, 5:07 PM
Post #25 of 55
(13351 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
j_ung wrote: bandycoot wrote: I've rarely been to a gym that didn't have rules I disliked, but they're a business trying to stay IN business and are covering their ass. On the flipside, I'll bet that there are a lot more people who THINK that a rule is stupid and arbitrary but have no clue what they are talking about than bad rules. I just spent 30-45 minutes helping out the desk staff at the gym I occasionally teach at because they failed a customer on the belay test. He was getting testy with them, and since I teach lead climbing in the gym, they sent him my way. I had to explain in detail multiple different ways why it's bad to pinch both strands together with one hand above the belay device while lead belaying. It was a surreal conversation. I wonder if that guy is now on the internet posting about stupid rules in the gym? Josh What exactly are you saying? I could have sworn you were poking back at people who call gym rules "too strict" for being ignorant, but all you cited was an example of a remarkably unstrict application of a gym rule, which, by the way, sounds to me like it should have been applied more strictly and the customer simply failed outright. Anyway, back to the point... Rules that exist solely to cover a gyms ass are precisely my beef with overly strict gyms. I believe that such rules in fact often make the gym less safe, rather than more. If it hasn't already happened, some day a gym customer will kill or injure a climber, because he was forced to belay in an unfamiliar manner with an unfamiliar device. How covered will the gym's ass be then?
How is failing someone for belaying incompetently an unstrict application of a gym rule?
I'm just saying that there are two sides to the issue, and climbers typically assume that they are right when it comes to rules in the gym. The gym I teach at has a rule or two that I disagree with, but they are being conservative since they've had 5 people hit the ground from 30+' leading in about a year and a half. They've increased the requirements and become more strict as a result, and it appears fewer mistakes are being made. There's often a reason for what they are doing, even if it doesn't make sense to the customer.
That said, I'm not calling everyone who thinks some gym rules are too strict ignorant. I'm just presenting an opposing view for thought/discussion. I think some of the rules listed up the thread are terrible.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
