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denorza2009
Dec 12, 2008, 2:22 PM
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Hi,
Can anyone suggest a good length for a static anchor rope, I'll be mostly using it for single pitch climbs, bottom and top anchors at jtree.
I was thinking 11.2m about 30 feet? Something like this
http://acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1474
Also I guess for static anchor rope there's no dry or non dry versions. I always like to buy dry regardless, just so I know I could climb in a bit of wet.
Is there any difference between 'semi-static' and 'static' ropes, I gather they were the same thing really.
thanks for any advice in advance
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pmyche
Dec 12, 2008, 2:48 PM
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No old lead line to cut up for this? Static ain't necessary.
I have too much cordage, including 11mm static and retired (but barely used) dynamic 10.x mm. Someone should take some of it off my hands and save a buck a foot. I'm in OC.
(This post was edited by pmyche on Dec 12, 2008, 2:50 PM)
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erclimb
Dec 12, 2008, 2:54 PM
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i use static line almost exlusively for tr anchors because i think it's more versatile than webbing; it's certainly more durable
for my local crag, i prefer two 50-foot pieces, and i can hang anything including routes where the nearest anchor point is 30+ feet frrom the edge
about 5 years ago, i switched to a 3/8-inch line from bluewater: plenty strong, very lightweight and highly packable, as well as more economical
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acorneau
Dec 12, 2008, 5:44 PM
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I have a 100' 3/8"(*EDIT: it was actually 7/16" not 3/8") Blue Water II static that I bought for an AMGA class. It's very handy for making top-rope anchors.
100' may seem like a lot, and I might have chosen 75' instead (100' was required for the class), but I've got it already, and it comes in handy for those far-off anchors or "flying V" anchor scenarios.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Dec 12, 2008, 10:23 PM)
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patmay81
Dec 12, 2008, 5:49 PM
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so whats up with the heavy anchor lines? I use down to 7mm cord for most anchors. Ive got some 8 and 9 also, but the 7mm and some webbing is a lot easier to pack. 11.2 seems like over kill to me. For a 3 point bolted anchor 30' is plenty long. if you have to sling trees or rocks, or have any distance you might want a couple of 30' lenghts (wich i find more versatile than on longer lenght).
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denorza2009
Dec 12, 2008, 10:04 PM
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Thanks that helped. I picked up 30 feet of 10.6mm BlueWater II+ Static Rope.
Good to know that 3/8 aka 9.5mm BlueWater static is the apparent accepted standard. I looked for it but could only find it in 200F plus lengths. So I can cut but more than I have to spend right now.
I think I'll get some 3/8 later or if I can find by the foot and maybe go to a longer length. In the summer I plan to do a lot of multi pitch stuff in the sierras so I need to figure out what I need for anchors there.
thanks again!
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acorneau
Dec 12, 2008, 10:30 PM
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denorza2009 wrote: Thanks that helped. I picked up 30 feet of 10.6mm BlueWater II+ Static Rope. Good to know that 3/8 aka 9.5mm BlueWater static is the apparent accepted standard.
My mistake; it was actually the 7/16" (11mm) BWII static rope off a spool at REI:
http://www.rei.com/product/737300
I'm sure the 3/8" would be just fine at 5940lbs. Remember that if you use it in a single-strand application with a knot (Fig-8 at ~75%) then you'll still be around 4,500lbs.
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Maddhatter
Dec 13, 2008, 12:11 AM
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pmyche wrote: No old lead line to cut up for this? Static ain't necessary. I have too much cordage, including 11mm static and retired (but barely used) dynamic 10.x mm. Someone should take some of it off my hands and save a buck a foot. I'm in OC.
Dynamic rope can stretch and rub on the rock with repeated top ropeing. This can be very bad!!!
If it is over a edge or is rubbing a lot static is still the best set up by far. I learned this the hard way in J-tree as a matter of fact. It didn't cut the core but the sheath was scary bad at the end of the day.
A good static line is always good to have to set up a slack line back at camp anyway.
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erclimb
Dec 13, 2008, 1:18 AM
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it's about durability; in the summer, i climb 3-4 days a week; my static line hasn't even shown any fraying of the sheath in five years
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h4lf_rope
Dec 13, 2008, 4:47 AM
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patmay81 wrote: so whats up with the heavy anchor lines? I use down to 7mm cord for most anchors....11.2 seems like over kill to me.
I've seen cord get cut on sharp edges in a TR setup. I'll stick to my 11.2, thank you.
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reno
Dec 13, 2008, 6:09 PM
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h4lf_rope wrote: patmay81 wrote: so whats up with the heavy anchor lines? I use down to 7mm cord for most anchors....11.2 seems like over kill to me. I've seen cord get cut on sharp edges in a TR setup. I'll stick to my 11.2, thank you.
One CAN place padding under such sharp edges. Old t-shirts, towels, or even a chunk of cardboard works for this.
To the OP: I once bought a 11mm x 60m static line, cut it into two 30 m pieces, and used it perhaps a dozen times. It's currently in the basement, in a box with other climbing gear that I don't use anymore (read: first pair of rock shoes, first harness, and so forth.)
I'd personally go with some 8mm cord and padding, about 60 feet worth (two sections of 30 feet), but to each their own.
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pmyche
Dec 13, 2008, 7:59 PM
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herothezero
Dec 13, 2008, 11:37 PM
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Or you can slide a small piece of 1" tubular over your chord to protect it.
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