|
bingo
Dec 15, 2008, 2:04 AM
Post #1 of 10
(3610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 22, 2005
Posts: 1
|
im trying to make the decision between getting some lasportiva muira vs shoes or the 5.10 anasazis. i do mostly sport climbing with a little bouldering thrown in there. I like the fit of the muiras but ive heard they dont smear well.
|
|
|
|
|
asiaclimber
Dec 15, 2008, 2:28 AM
Post #2 of 10
(3601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 21, 2007
Posts: 214
|
first of all these are to totally different shoes. The Muira VS is an amazing shoe with a down cambered profile that you will use for steep to over hanging routes. It is not made for smearing so it does not do this well. The Anasazi is a good all around shoe that will work pretty good at just about everything. This being said, The Muira VS is a specific shoe. The Anasazi is a all around good shoe with great friction, I personally do not like the Anasazi because the heal cup fits me weird. The VS fits me perfectly on the other hand but I hate La Sportiva rubber with a passion.
Fit matters the most and getting a shoe for your climbing style matters next. If you don't like the rubber just do what i did with my Katana's and resole them with stealth.
|
|
|
|
|
pbnjonny
Dec 16, 2008, 4:26 AM
Post #3 of 10
(3508 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2006
Posts: 142
|
asiaclimber wrote: Fit matters the most and getting a shoe for your climbing style matters next. In reply to: can't beat this advice.
|
|
|
|
|
rhythm164
Dec 16, 2008, 4:38 AM
Post #4 of 10
(3501 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
|
Which Anasazis were you thinking about. I have the lace-ups and they are hands down the best shoe I've ever used. I have the Muira VS too, and they are a great shoe for bouldering, tons of power and a stable platform. They are both great shoes, but if you're looking for sport climbing performance, I'd probably go with the 5.10s providing they fit you good.
|
|
|
|
|
ghisino
Dec 17, 2008, 5:28 PM
Post #5 of 10
(3423 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
|
depends on your foot , then on which sport climbing you mean.
myself if I slip them on in the shop I know for sure I'm getting miuras...and I have one pair
that said they feel like a great shoe, imho much more versatile than asia said, but one thing is sure : their best is not full smearing on the total blankness in slab climbs.
I'd say it is not the best of any modern shoe concept though, except from some weird ultra-soft slippers.
Also, they are not amazingly sensitive, being a bit on the stiffer/supportive side.
But, if you push them hard in a layback move, they will smear very well if you know what I mean.
That said, provided that you have footholds, no matter how small or how slopey, they seem to be happy in helping you getting the best out of those features.
great heel, great pointy toe for pockets, great support for getting kgs off your hands without ending your 100' pitch with pumped feet.
And a touch of "pulling" ability that does not ruin the overall balance : it is not a full-on roof machine.
So far I climbed them mostly on vertical terrain on small edges and they do deliver, once you get the feeling for them (I come from katanas, which are noticeably softer in the toe area)
they stretch as testarossas or slightly more but sizing is different : I am happy with 39 1/2 in the Ts, 38 1/2 or 39 with these. (my street size is 43).
Can't tell you about anasazis since I never got them. the feeling I always get in the shop is "a great tip profile wasted with a boxy fit on the rest of the foot and approximative biomechanics"
|
|
|
|
|
churningindawake
Dec 17, 2008, 6:33 PM
Post #6 of 10
(3397 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 5292
|
I've had the Muira VS's for a few months now. They are absolutely amazing. They smear great.
They seem to work a lot better than the 5.10 Anasazi's. The Dial-O-Matic 3 velcro straps give a great feel. I climbed a bunch of different kinds of climbs, and these worked great for all of them.
|
|
|
|
|
churningindawake
Dec 17, 2008, 6:35 PM
Post #7 of 10
(3394 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 5292
|
The only problem I have had with the Muira's is that the top velcro strap has come unstitched on both of the shoes.
|
|
|
|
|
jerusry
Dec 22, 2008, 9:17 AM
Post #8 of 10
(3292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2008
Posts: 32
|
i bought a pair of the miura vs a week or two after they were on the market and spent 3-4 hours every day bouldering for a few months. and since then it has been about 3-4 times a week. overhanging to slab climbing...trad on the weekends, and gym climbing at night. they are amazing shoes. after you break them in they shine alot more then you would guess. they can do eveything. and they are great for finger cracks too. but anything bigger and they hurt your toes. if you can't smear in them there is something wrong with you.... they toe point amazingly, their power is amazing. they edge better than any shoe i have worn. i can stand on credit card edges all day long (i do have strong feet but give the credit to the shoes). the heel on them is good. never slipped on a heel hook, but i do wish the rubber wrapped around the side a bit on the heel. the stiffer rubber is not less sticky, just a bit stiffer which enables them to edge awesome whether on slab or overhanging. they are still a fairly sensitive shoe.
they smear better then you would think. it takes a little getting used to, they aren't like a pair of evolv defy or a pair of super soft slippers, but i never had a problem sticking a slab smear.
i have climbed trad in them no problem. i would venture to guess i have been climbing every day in them nonstop for about 6 months. that being said i had to resole them not very long ago only because i have climbed in them so much. there were even days i climbed real rocks in the morning before work, and then went to the gym for 3-4 hours that night after work. they have held up very well! and i think the rubber is fanstastic. you can hold up one shoe by stick the 2 toes together when you touch them together... sorry five ten, if the rubber can do that, and make them edge better and last longer... then i am sticking with vibram rubber.so far i am not a big fan of the onyxx.
for example i get astonished reactions every time i climb.i have walked up problems standing on crystals you can't see better then people in other shoes trying to stand on the actually edges associated on the rated climbs. and all they say is.. what the heck were you standing on? i point at it and they say.. i can't see it. if you catch my drift. the shoes are amazing. they may smear a little less easy then a slipper but for everything they excel at they more then make up for it compared to 90% of the shoes on the market. out of the two shoes you are comparing i say hands down miura vs. comparing them to the anasazi is no competition. period! i don't care what rubber is on the shoe. i have even let people try my shoes on and test them out if they want and they are amazed at the performance of the shoe no matter which shoe they are wearing. even had a guy in the miura laceup try them on... had been climbing in the laceups for 4 years... after he wore my shoes... he went out the next day and bought the velcro version. his reaction was amazement.
some of the people in there years of extra experience and their anasazis wonder in awe at how easy i make problem and climbs look. and i give the credit to my shoes. my other shoes don't even compare. and if you think they are anything like the lace up you are sorely mistaken. they are 10X better then those. hope that clearly soles your "which shoe" problem...
btw... i have mortons toe... a good case of it too. and after the excruciating break in. they have molded to my foot and stretched and they are the most comfortable pair of shoes in my arsenal. i don't ever pull other shoes outta my back unless i have a fatty crack to climb. there is no need for any other shoe then these other than that purpose!
good luck and let us know how the miura vs work out for you. only reason i would say for not getting them is IF they REALLY DON'T fit your foot shape!
|
|
|
|
|
Jrocketclimber
Mar 5, 2009, 4:12 AM
Post #9 of 10
(2902 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2008
Posts: 11
|
I hear your dilemma because these are both incredible shoes. I have and absolutely adore both. They both fit my foot well from day one. For me, the Anasazi velcro is best for a variety of climbing terrains. I can multi pitch in them if needed, but I would prefer not to do extensive crack climbing or smearing in them, yet they can handle both. They excel at techy, close to vertical climbing. They edge great!
The VS is the most aggressive shoe I have, so I save these hyper bad ass shoes for overhanging climbs and boulders. They feel like talons on steep pockety sport climbs and roof climbs. I really love having both in my arsenal, but I would say it depends on which type of climbing you need them for, and of course which one fits your foot. The Anasazi is a little more all around technical whereas the VS is for the steepness.
Climb Globally, Shop Locally
www.lookingglassoutfitters.com
|
|
|
|
|
ghisino
Mar 9, 2009, 4:27 PM
Post #10 of 10
(2784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
|
two quick add-ons on the miura vs
a)they get quite a lot softer after some use...turning more into smeary territory and losing some bite in micro-edging
b) toe-hooks absolutely destroys the first velcro, if your route/boulder involves one, put some tape over it...
still my main shoe, but if I need something specialized on small sharp edges I go for something else. Not anasazis, but a really close design...
|
|
|
|
|
|
