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farva
Feb 18, 2005, 3:23 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Do you ever use the sewn cam sling as a quickdraw (by using 2 biners inside the sling & not using the cam)? Would the absence of this feature make a difference in which cams you buy?
Some cams you cannot due this with due to the sewing configuration (metolious). Others you can (BD etc).
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slobmonster
Feb 18, 2005, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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You mean if I *really* need that extra four inches? Please. Like I'm going to sacrifice a cam to extend something else??
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wormly81
Feb 18, 2005, 3:52 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2004
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So your saying you regularly sacrifice a cam and a biner just to extend a piece by 3 or 4 inches?
Wow.
Jeff
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jakedatc
Feb 18, 2005, 4:00 AM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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yea.. i dont see the advantage ..
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barc
Feb 18, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Feature? You consider this a feature?
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farva
Feb 18, 2005, 4:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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Yes it is a sling design consideration.
It's a full strength runner after all.
Maybe I should clarify the scenario: If you ran out of quickdraws or slings & had extra cams at the top of a pitch.
I'm not saying use cams instead of quickdraws intentionally.
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anykineclimb
Feb 18, 2005, 4:30 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
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I do.
I carry a spare #3 cam and extra biners "in case" I run out of draws.
Ya know, I gotta be prepared.
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slavetogravity
Feb 18, 2005, 4:33 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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I've done this on a few occasions. It works well with smaller cams. Beats clipping biners to biners.
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lucas_timmer
Feb 18, 2005, 5:43 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2004
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For the price of a cam with extendable sling, you could buy a couple of quickdraws which are probaply even lighter.Why the effort ?
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caughtinside
Feb 18, 2005, 5:49 PM
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I did this a couple times on one route.
4 pitch route in T Meadows, H Flake to Boltway. Basically, the first two pitches were all gear. The last two pitches were all friction slabbing on bolts, with about 8-10 bolts each pitch. I was 2 runners/draws short for the last two pitches, so I used the cam sling like a short runner, with 2 biners.
I don't think I'd use it to extend a normal cam/nut placement though. If I'm so desparate that I'm out of runners, I'm probably low on gear too, and wouldn't want to use a cam that I might need later for the route or anchor.
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crotch
Feb 18, 2005, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
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If I'm out of draws and need extension, I'd reach for a nut before a cam.
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csgambill
Feb 18, 2005, 6:46 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2004
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How many draws do you have? If you're running out of draws consistently enough that you need to use the sling of a cam as a draw you seriously need to buy some more draws or learn how to run out a little bit and skip a bolt now and then. There's no law, aside from gravity, that dictates you clip into every anchor you see.
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azrockclimber
Feb 18, 2005, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
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yeah...no big deal..If I have a cam That I don't need & I need a short sling , absolutely. However, it is few and far between when I don't have a better option. I have used cam slings to extend my belay more often than I have used them on a pitch. This is obviously because I didn't need all of my cams on the pitch but i did need all of my quicks/ slings.
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azrockclimber
Feb 18, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Oh, and it would absolutely not affect which cams I bought. it is never something that I plan on doing as I said few and far between. Actually i don't mind saying that the only times i have done that is becasue I mis-judged the pitch/ the pitches/ or the entire climb.
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climberpunk
Feb 18, 2005, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 171
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Yeah, I don't know why you would ever waste a cam, unless you needed the weight to keep a sketchy placement in. If you need to extend a placement that badly, use a swaged nut or something less vital. The only reason I can see would be to extend a sketchy placement over a sharp edge- in which case just find another placement.
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