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phatcat
Mar 9, 2005, 3:14 AM
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so i just went to a gear site and added up everything for my realistic "ideal/dream rack".
it only came in at $3000. i was suprised....i just need to ignore the devil on my shoulder whispering "credit card...credit card..." :lol:
what do you guys come up with for a price on a nice heavy rack??
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tattooed_climber
Mar 9, 2005, 3:30 AM
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wrong place to post this thread...
mine is 4000$+....and it can handle any squamish single pitch and 70% of the multi-pitch.....add my partners rack (the same but no hex;s and bigger cams and more ice) and we can do anytihng...
or am i not on the ball (due to my absent presents in Community) and is this a gag at a "rack" rack....look for a girl with a nice big traditional rack? :wink: :P ...
*i just had to go and stomp on the TOS.... :roll:
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macherry
Mar 9, 2005, 3:35 AM
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macherry moved this thread from Community to Gear Heads.
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phatcat
Mar 9, 2005, 3:43 AM
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well, i put this thread in community because it has probably been done a million times before.
yeah i though it would be more like $5000. it was something like Doubles of C4's up to #4, doubles of all aliens, two full sets of stopers, a full set of hexes, 40 nutrino's, more free biners.... i think that was it. i didn't include slings, belay stuff, harness, rope, that kind of stuff because anyone looking for a trad rack to start with has that kind of stuff allready.
i'm sure people will reply with "you should get this and that instead". your missing the point of this gear-whore thread. :wink:
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j_ung
Mar 9, 2005, 3:46 AM
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I could tell you, but then you'd want to kill me. I can't remember the last time I paid retail for gear. 8^) 8^) 8^)
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vegastradguy
Mar 9, 2005, 3:47 AM
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i think my rack is somewhere in the $7000+ range, but thats also all of the aid gear, extra ropes, and shoes thrown in.
i think that, if you were frugal and sensible, you could get a decent rack that would get you up most anything for around $1000. (the Creek being a notable exception!)....a cheap set of cams, a set of hexes, stoppers, some webbing and cheap carabiners and you're good to go. You could actually probably spend quite a bit under $1000, but i'm assuming most folks would go for their favorite cams like BD, WC, etc....
edited because i bought more gear. heh.
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phatcat
Mar 9, 2005, 3:47 AM
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oh, i forgot tricams.
yeah, i think i'll get a job at a climbing store before i take that plunge...
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giza
Mar 9, 2005, 3:49 AM
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In reply to: mine is 4000$+....and it can handle any squamish single pitch and 70% of the multi-pitch.....
Holy %&$#@ dude, I hope you can handle any single pitch and most of the multi-pitch routes in Squamish with a $4000 rack. I can do the same with a lot less money spent. Maybe you've got a double rack of aliens, camalots and big bros....
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gunksgoer
Mar 9, 2005, 4:03 AM
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In reply to: well, i put this thread in community because it has probably been done a million times before. yeah i though it would be more like $5000. it was something like Doubles of C4's up to #4, doubles of all aliens, two full sets of stopers, a full set of hexes, 40 nutrino's, more free biners.... i think that was it. i didn't include slings, belay stuff, harness, rope, that kind of stuff because anyone looking for a trad rack to start with has that kind of stuff allready. i'm sure people will reply with "you should get this and that instead". your missing the point of this gear-whore thread. :wink:
:shock: 34 cams... drool.... i wish i could drop that kind of dough for gear in a short ammount of time. ive been trad climbing for a couple years, and building my rack for about the same amount of time. i have um, 19 cams. its a gunks rack tho, so its mostly just smaller stuff, im working on getting larger sizes.
in total its probably cost me (some things were gifts, but ill include them for value anyway) about, $2000 so far. im guessing 1000 for cams, 300 for passive, (nuts, hexes, tricams) 300 for slings and draws, 200 for misc, (belay device(s), extra biners, gear sling, nut tool, screamer, etc) and then theres rope and all that junk, but thats not really part of the "rack", so the remaining 200 is for underestimates. In the next year or so ill probably by another 10 cams or so, and a few other random things (slings probably). oh yeah, shoes and stuff too. ahhh this sports expensive, but hey, im definatly a gear whore :D
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blakester
Mar 9, 2005, 4:18 AM
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I think you are all over-estimating what you need to pay.. jsut shop around. Here's my rack, all bought in the last 6 months:
17 cams WC, Rockempire, Metolius, DMM... $390
One set small brass nuts, one set larger aluminum nuts: $70
6 smallest CAMP tri-cams - $50
Wild Country Slung hexes full set - $40
60m Edelweiss 10.3mm rope, 60m 8.4mm Sterling half rope, 15ish various slings and 10 QDs- $300
Gear sling, racking/slinging wiregates, several locking 'biners, cordelette, tibloc, webbing, nut tool, belay device, harness, shoes - $200
$1,050 and I'm COMPLETELY stocked, and that's more than a rack, that's the whole enchilada.
That's also gear able to protect just about any climb in the country, invluding big multi-pitch routes. Only exceptions would be climbs with lots of big off-width spots, I don't have big bros or huge cams.
I'd be glad to give further details on brands or deals if requested, it's all about shoppign around, knowing generally waht you want, and being patient for the deals to jump on.
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vegastradguy
Mar 9, 2005, 4:24 AM
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hey, i was right! :D
yeah, i'm such a whore when it comes to cams. i have doubles of every size from green alien to the #6 C4 (yes, i own two!), plus random TCU's, hybrid aliens, ballnutz, and a set of Bros (including the monster). and, like a true gear whore, my REI dividend is going towards more cams. muhahaha!!!
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montaniero
Mar 9, 2005, 1:45 PM
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two Camalots #6!!!!!!!!! :shock:
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granite_grrl
Mar 9, 2005, 2:04 PM
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I'm doing a quick mental review of what I've actually purchased myself...
Out of 13 cams I have only paid for 2.5 (the two full ones were on sale)
Set of BD nuts....bought 2
Set of BD hexes....bought 1
4 tricams....bought 1
8 sport draw....actually bought 5 of them
7 shoes.....bought 5 pair (3 @ $35US, the other two also on sale)
The only place where I've sunk any amount of my own money into my rack is for the biners, slings and webbing (also harnesses, helmet, belay devices, and other odds and ends). I've had the odd biner and sling bought for me, but over the years I've just made it a practice to buy a couple of biners most times I'm in Mountain Equipment Coop (and I still don't have enough....seems I'll never catch up).
I like to take advantage of xmas and b-days.....my family is can't understand why I seem to need more, MORE, MORE!!!! every year :D
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lucas_timmer
Mar 9, 2005, 2:40 PM
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I paid € 850,- but I don't have much...
Just 4 cams,4 hexes and a set of Wallnuts and micro nuts.And of course 6 quickdraws(wayyyy too less)some biners and more than enough slings.
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markc
Mar 9, 2005, 2:44 PM
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It sounds like some of you haul a lot more gear around than I usually do. I'll admit I'm a pretty tame climber, but I don't think I want to hump that much gear to the base of a route, let alone climb with it. 32 cams, plus hexes and a double set of nuts for free climbing?!? That sounds like 60 pieces. How many placements are you looking at per pitch?
On most routes I carry 9 cams, 8 hexes (4 - 11), a set of nuts, and a couple tri-cams. I'll add to that when necessary, but I don't find myself short very often. On a recent trip, we left the hexes at home and carried maybe 14 or 15 cams. I have doubles in mid-range cams (old Rock Empires I started climbing on), but I usually prefer to leave them at home. I like pro, but there's only so much I want to carry.
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abouttopeel
Mar 9, 2005, 4:01 PM
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That's 4000 canadian though right tattoo? So in the USD it's more like 2300?
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tammarak
Mar 9, 2005, 4:11 PM
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Assuming the rack is for free climbing and doesn't include ropes, harness and shoes. 1500$ is certainly enough.
Cams - 0.5 - 4 X 2
Nuts - full set + half set - tops!
Brass nuts - set 5mm >
hexes - 3 medium sizes
tricams - three smallest sizes
This is approximately $ 1350
Add a couple of screamers and 20 light weight wire gates and you're good to go. You might need bigger pieces if you love offwidths, so add them too but only for a specific offwidth project - like pipeline at Squamish. A couple of Big Bros and one large cam to slide should do it. Other wise even for the Steck-Salathe you only need a #4 camalot.
This will definitelly get you up almost all multipitch climbs. Exceptions being Indian Creek or certin pitches that require many in a particular size.
Assuming that you're going climbing with someone else who has a rack of similar proportions you'll have enough gear between you for multiday clean walls like the Nose or walls at Zion. Anymore gear and you'll be too heavy to climb effectively and you'll place too much gear just to lighten the load. You'll probably flame out before you get halfway up the wall. Light is right, place gear often but don't over do it.
Unless you just love to buy gear more than use it - You can make great adult mobiles - hang shiny new gear above your bed and dream sweet, sweet climbing dreams!
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tammarak
Mar 9, 2005, 4:19 PM
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The Canadian dollar is going up while the American dollar is going down - yesterday the Canadian dollar was 8.23 - on the American.
That means that 4000 CA = 3300 USD. Plus most gear is actually cheaper in Canada - Camalots are almost the same price, so are biners draws and other gear - the only real exceptions are aliens. So I ordered them from the States and saved 100 dollars!
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markc
Mar 9, 2005, 4:22 PM
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In reply to: Unless you just love to buy gear more than use it - You can make great adult mobiles - hang shiny new gear above your bed and dream sweet, sweet climbing dreams!
Just make sure you're using really heavy-gauge wire or line for your mobiles. You don't want a large cam falling on your head (or if you're a guy - either head) in the middle of the night. Ouch.
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taino
Mar 9, 2005, 4:32 PM
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In reply to: It sounds like some of you haul a lot more gear around than I usually do. I'll admit I'm a pretty tame climber, but I don't think I want to hump that much gear to the base of a route, let alone climb with it. 32 cams, plus hexes and a double set of nuts for free climbing?!? That sounds like 60 pieces. How many placements are you looking at per pitch? On most routes I carry 9 cams, 8 hexes (4 - 11), a set of nuts, and a couple tri-cams. I'll add to that when necessary, but I don't find myself short very often. On a recent trip, we left the hexes at home and carried maybe 14 or 15 cams. I have doubles in mid-range cams (old Rock Empires I started climbing on), but I usually prefer to leave them at home. I like pro, but there's only so much I want to carry.
It might be a case of not knowing which you will need, so you bring it all.
I carry two sets of nuts (ABC Huevos and Choinard), tricams from pink through blue (with doubles in pink and red), Aliens from blue through red (with doubles in green and yellow and triple gray, and hybrids BL/GR and GR/YL), and hexes from 5-10 - but only 4-5 cams from .5-3. If I'm onsiting something, I'll take everything - all the above, plus doubles in cams from .5-3 and a #3.5 and #4.
I've spent about $2k on things (including three single ropes and a set of doubles). I bought nearly everything online except the cams (Rock & Snow), utilizing blem biners and scouring for sales.
T
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topher
Mar 9, 2005, 4:51 PM
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i duno what you have in a 4000+ rack.. and i dont know why you cant get up every thing in squamish with that...i have a much more megar rack and i have no problems in squampton climbing any thing there.. what do you own....
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korntera
Mar 9, 2005, 5:28 PM
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All i can say is pagangear.com $349 for 10 cams, a full set of nuts, biners for every cam and nut, a nut tool and i think something else. I just need to get two or three of those sets and a big bro's set i would be good. So maybe 350 + 350 + 300(big bros) 1000?
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abouttopeel
Mar 9, 2005, 5:32 PM
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Korntera, I think you're forgetting all the racking carabiners, slings, gear harness, locking biners, draws, helmet. That could easily be another 200-300.
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chronicle
Mar 9, 2005, 5:37 PM
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I dropped $1300 initially, later added another $300-500. That has me set up for most stuff on the east coast.
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hiram
Mar 9, 2005, 6:45 PM
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i just started my trad rack this week......
3 cams (flex cams no. 4,5,6) and 3 shiny new beaners for a shade over $100.
i think it is a good start.
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