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estwing
Mar 12, 2005, 3:44 AM
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Hi there, I am curious as to how deep you let the rope grooves get in your carabiners before you retire them. I know a few people who should likely be replacing their belay biners, but are loathe to do so.
Thanks,
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tattooed_climber
Mar 12, 2005, 3:53 AM
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i've seen it on belay devices but only heard about rummors about it on biners..???...common sense i guess....rotate your biners to avoid.... :?
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slobmonster
Mar 12, 2005, 5:15 AM
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In reply to: ...common sense i guess... |
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yekcir
Mar 12, 2005, 5:18 AM
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My belay biner (an Omega Jake autolocker) is about 10% worn through... I'll probably replace it before the end of the year.
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reach
Mar 12, 2005, 6:11 AM
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replace it when passers by start pointing it out. :shock:
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ctardi
Mar 12, 2005, 8:11 AM
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Replace it when there is 1/128 th of an inch remaining.
EDIT: Incase you didn't notice, this is a joke! DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS! 1/128 of an inch is comparable to a human hair.
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mesomorf
Mar 12, 2005, 2:09 PM
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Replace it when it is 1/128 th of an inch worn.
Seriously, though. I have had a biner get worn out on just one rappel in the Bugaboos, when the rope was coated with glacial sand.
It pisses me off to get belayed with someone's worn out biner. It does not speak well of them as a belayer.
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estwing
Mar 12, 2005, 3:17 PM
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The same thing happened to me in yosemite while descending from the leaning tower in a rain storm. Nearly cooked a brand new reverso, and grooved a attache biner pretty thorougly. I think I will just use the biner for slack line setup in the future.
Thanks for the replies.
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skinner
Mar 12, 2005, 3:46 PM
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In reply to: It pisses me off to get belayed with someone's worn out biner. It does not speak well of them as a belayer. |
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jsj42
Mar 12, 2005, 4:16 PM
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In reply to: It pisses me off to get belayed with someone's worn out biner. It does not speak well of them as a belayer.
One of my best friends and one of the strongest climbers I climb with (a solid 5.12 trad leader), showed me his belay biner one day (while we were half-way up the Diamond): a Petzl Attache that was literally 1/4 of the way worn through. It never bothered me having him belay me... in fact, I thought the biner was quite funny.
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ctardi
Mar 12, 2005, 4:20 PM
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In reply to: Replace it when it is 1/128 th of an inch worn. Seriously, though. I have had a biner get worn out on just one rappel in the Bugaboos, when the rope was coated with glacial sand. It pisses me off to get belayed with someone's worn out biner. It does not speak well of them as a belayer.
Do you know how small 1/128 th is? I mean are you really going to carry around callipers making sure that all belay biners are okay? the anodizing on most 'beaners is about 1/64th of an inch thick, so 1/128th off will have exactly the same structural intagrity as one with 1/64th off. Once it is through the anodizing and has warn about 1/16th of the actual aluminum is when I would replace it.
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paulraphael
Mar 12, 2005, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Replace it when it is 1/128 th of an inch worn. Seriously, though. I have had a biner get worn out on just one rappel in the Bugaboos, when the rope was coated with glacial sand. It pisses me off to get belayed with someone's worn out biner. It does not speak well of them as a belayer. Do you know how small 1/128 th is? I mean are you really going to carry around callipers making sure that all belay biners are okay? the anodizing on most 'beaners is about 1/64th of an inch thick, so 1/128th off will have exactly the same structural intagrity as one with 1/64th off. Once it is through the anodizing and has warn about 1/16th of the actual aluminum is when I would replace it.
in the future, you can ignore anything that comes before the words "seriously, though."
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