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aleister_crowley
Mar 12, 2005, 1:40 AM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2005
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I am planning to go to the bugaboos this july. anyone got good tips or ideas on how to make my trip good. i.e. travel tips, locations, good routs in the 10a-11d range, anything helps. P.S. are routes stiff or soft there... honestly no egos aply. thanx, aleister
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slavetogravity
Mar 12, 2005, 2:22 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2003
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The route data base is a good place for start. To give you an idea of what’s up there in the way of camping, huts, parking, fees, click the link to the BC Governments Bugaboos Provincial Park web site. It will give you all the goods on everything but the climbing. As for the climbing. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you pick up the latest Bugaboos climbing guide from Elaho Publishing. They’re a Canadian company that put out a guide for the area a few years ago. There’s an American made guide book, that was the original guide for the area, but it’s a waste of money compared to the Elaho book. Besides having more routes, it has photos( not just poorly drawn topos) also it gives mention of route quality, something that I believe is important when you’re a climber all the way from Texas and don’t want to waist any time.
Given the grade your climbing at I’ll recommend the following routes.
Sunshine, 5.11a on Snow Patch Spire.
Energy Crises 5.11c on Crescent Spire. (if you look in the section photos under Crecent Spire, you'll see a photo submitted by me. It's the overhanging dihedral directy above from where I'm standing)
Becky-Chouinard 5.10a (like you need to hear that from me)
Surfs Up 5.9 on Snow Patch Spire. (My personal favourite)
When it comes to grades, I’ve found that the Bugaboos is a friendly place for both grades and gear. The rocks is typically clean and solid, especially on the steeper/harder stuff, and the pro is rarely too picky. The best place I could compare grades to would be Squamish. That falls somewhere between harder then Red Rocks and easier then J-tree (what ever the hell that means?) But keep in mind that you’re climbing at elevation. You may be able to climbing 5.11 in your sleep but at 10,000 feet 5.11 takes on a whole new meaning. Don’t forget to give your self time to acclimatize if you plan on hitting the hard stuff.
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estwing
Mar 12, 2005, 3:47 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
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Check out this months Rock and Ice for an interesting article on the bugs.
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