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pumpout2004
Mar 14, 2005, 8:35 PM
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People always always talk about being a v5 climber or a 5.12 climber. My question is, when do you consider urself this type of climber? Is it when u worked that 12 for a month and finally sent, or do you need to onsight every 12 you get on???
Pump
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sub-zero
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Mar 14, 2005, 8:40 PM
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Good question any replies? :?:
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melodicllama
Mar 14, 2005, 8:45 PM
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i consider myself a climber of a certain level when i can repoint them in a few(less than 5) tries. some onsights at that level wouldnt hurt.
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altelis
Mar 14, 2005, 8:52 PM
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i don't think you need to onsight every one you get on, but to consider yourself an "x" climber you should be able to onsight a "good proportion" of climbs at that level and be able to redpoint within a few tries.
though now that i say this, those at the upper end of the climbing game are .14 climbers, without question, but sometimes take months to climb a .14c or d....
so, in retrospect, i dunno...
on a different note, i have a similar question, check out the post:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1033346#1033346
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onbelay510
Mar 14, 2005, 9:19 PM
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I'd say confidence on a grade, redpointing within a few tries. If you can redpoint say, 5.11c consistently, your a 5.11c climber.
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pumpout2004
Mar 14, 2005, 9:22 PM
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ic!! i thank everyone for their input, it is interesting to see the different opinions. Happy Climbing
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maculated
Mar 14, 2005, 11:55 PM
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I am a 5.6 climber. I can reliably, in all conditions, on all kind of rocks, in all parts of the world, lead 5.6. I might risk 5.7 these days. I can basically freesolo these routes with very little worry of being trumped by a move.
That's not to say that I can't lead 5.8, 5.10d, etc . . . I can. But not in every condition. When I hear, "I am a 5.11 climber" I expect that to happen no matter wherever that person is. It take work, travel, and experience to figure out what that means.
People try to say they are something because they've climbed one route somewhere, but that is simply "I have climbed."
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angry
Mar 15, 2005, 12:30 AM
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Exactly Kristin.
While I subscribe to the "mostly solid" school of thought, this doesn't hold true for the upper grades.
Think about it, there are probably 2-3 actual 5.14 climbers in the world (Yuji, Tommy, and maybe someone else).
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vegastradguy
Mar 15, 2005, 12:36 AM
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see mac's response- this is how i approach communicating my climbing ability. I'm probably a 5.8/5.9 leader at this point in my climbing. I would say 5.9, but I suspect there are still a few 5.9's out there that would shut me down....
i also think it would be interesting to ask a guy like Tommy Caldwell or Dean Potter or even Peter Croft what level they climb at. I suspect alot of them would hesitate to even give you an answer.
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runnit
Mar 15, 2005, 12:47 AM
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if someone asks me, i always like to break it down a bit more like i'm onsighting 18 and redpointing around 20 rather than just saying i climb whatever grade, especially if you're talking to a new climbing partner and you're trying to get a feel for skill/experience etc
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fire-master
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Mar 15, 2005, 1:53 AM
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I usually define my climbing by my problem level. If someone asks me what I'm climbing these days I tell them the 5.11-5.12 range is what I'm working on. Not that I onsight any 11s (some day.....) but that's what I project. I don't usually even mention it in my "working on" range until I send at least one project at that level.
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cmacblue42
Mar 15, 2005, 2:28 AM
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Basically when u r comfortable doing a certain difficulty level. all the above is true but keep in mind that Font has slopers while diferent. places have different types of rock with the same difficulty rating. Again, when u can pretty constantly do a climb witha difficulty rating. Personaly, i limit it to the max i can do constantly in an area since often i dont go around the world since you can pretty much do the grade u r on anywhere in the world.
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climbinginchico
Mar 15, 2005, 3:36 AM
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Kristin hit the nail on the head.
I guess I would be a 5.7 or so leader.
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akicebum
Mar 15, 2005, 3:59 AM
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I agree that one or two .12's doesn't mean that you are a .12 climber but if you can go out and work low end .12's and get them after a couple of tries and maybe it takes you several days before you can tag a high end .12 then I would say you are a .12 climber. I climb 11 super solid, my onsight is generally around 11b or 11c but I haven't climbed anything harder than 12b.
There is also the problem of grade differences. If you climb Red Rocks .12 and go to Smith you are going to get your ass handed to you. So I think you need to have a variety of experience. I haven't gotten out to many developed areas lately so I really have no idea how hard I can climb. In the gym I crank hard but I don't really trust gym grades.
I think, if you can hit the low range anywhere you go in a couple of tries, and red point the high end to a grade above in a variety of areas, then that would paint an accurate picture of you climbing ability. But who cares? If you want to talk all you have to do is back it up, so if you want to tell people you climb .14 you better not be gaping on 13a.
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badass
Mar 15, 2005, 4:50 AM
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Man your strong when your strong. I've only done one 5.14 so far but put me on another and watch it go. When people first get to 5.12 it can be a fight but when you hit above 13 you get way more consistant with your ability to send your level of hard because you truly learn how to move on rock.
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skinner
Mar 15, 2005, 6:09 AM
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In reply to: I am a 5.6 climber.." |
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anykineclimb
Mar 15, 2005, 6:59 AM
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The way Maculated described is the best description.
you can't call yourself a 5.10 climber is you can't cruise up a .8 slab
regardless of all you limestone pocket pulling!
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all_that_is_rock
Mar 15, 2005, 7:05 AM
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I think there are different ways to answere this question (as has been demonstrated). When I moved to N.Y. from C.O. I thought I was a 5.x climber and it turned out that I was a 5.x- climber. what I mean is that on C.O. basalt sandstone and lime stone I could lead a certain grade, I went to J-tree and could climb that same grade, then to moab and could struggle up that grade. I came to N.Y. and the quartsite felt like climbing glass to me. my redpoint level droped a full grade. so now I will consider myself that grade untill I can climb at that level on every type of stone anywhere. you are not a 5.11 climber if you have only climbed 5.11 in bishop.
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eyecannon
Mar 15, 2005, 7:53 AM
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I climb, like, rocks and stuff 8^)
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kermitzclimber
Mar 15, 2005, 9:16 PM
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I found I am really getting into the sport and love climbing! No idea what I am, but when I fall I get my butt up and try again. So I have no idea what I am other than determined.
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