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stypins1
Mar 13, 2005, 6:11 AM
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How do Yates Screamers work? Are they worth it on trad rock climbing?
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vegastradguy
Mar 13, 2005, 6:18 AM
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they work by reducing the impact force on the piece they are clipped to- basically they are long runners that are stitched into a smaller runner. when you fall on them, they 'activate' by the stitches ripping out and the runner expanding to full length (which is still strong enough to catch you). they can reduce impact force by up to 4kn, depending on the scenario.
are they worth it on trad? absolutely- marginal pro, bad bolts, you name it. i own two...used them alot, but havent fallen on one yet. however, if i ever do, i'll be more than happy to shell out another $15 for one of 'em!
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gunked
Mar 13, 2005, 6:25 AM
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They are load-limiting shock absorbers. They are essentially full strength sewn runners that are stiched to themselves in such a way that during a fall they start to rip out the stitches (not the stitches or bar-tacking that make it a full strength runner) thereby absorbing some of the force. I'm not gonna go into the specific numbers and technical mumbo-jumbo except to say that they definitely have their place on my rack.
And...I do use them for trad as well as ice. In trad, I generally clip my first piece in with a screamer. Sketchy gear might also get a screamer. On ice, I almost always use a screamer with every screw.
-Jason
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tattooed_climber
Mar 13, 2005, 6:32 AM
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essentual in ice....(aka ice draws)......and i guess they;re big on in aid too
i'd prob gonna get one for trad...haven't ran into a use yet (except for on my ballnut placements or ran out slab)...but it'll be an investment...
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skinner
Mar 14, 2005, 6:19 AM
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In reply to: essentual in ice....(aka ice draws)......and i guess they;re big on in aid too
When aiding, they can help to reduce the SF rating significantly
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chanceboarder
Mar 14, 2005, 6:27 AM
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i've got a couple and use them for trad. any time i think i've got marginal pro or an old scetchy bolt something that i'd want to put as little force on as possible would get one.
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rjavery10
Mar 14, 2005, 6:51 AM
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This is good info as I was thinking about buying a few of these. I climb trad all the time at J Tree which can be known for its stetchy placments at the beginning of climbs. Also, I weigh more than the average climber so a few Screamers might be good.
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g-funk
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Mar 14, 2005, 7:04 AM
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In reply to: the SF rating
Not to be an idiot, but what's that?
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glyrocks
Mar 15, 2005, 6:00 PM
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Oh yea, they're worth it all right.
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j_ung
Mar 15, 2005, 6:35 PM
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I generally carry one for marginal pieces, especially if they're close to the belay or if I have lots of rope drag.
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glyrocks
Mar 15, 2005, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: I generally carry one for marginal pieces, especially if they're close to the belay or if I have lots of rope drag.
why's that?
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estwing
Mar 15, 2005, 8:02 PM
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The reason that one might want a screamer in a high rope drag situation is based on the following. The strech of your rope is what decreases impact force. The more rope available the more force absorbed. When you bend the rope sharply, or have it rubbing on slab for a good deal of its length (high rope drag situations) there is effectively less rope in play to absorb impact. This is because the sections that are not moving freely don't take much force.
Hope this helps,
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glyrocks
Mar 15, 2005, 8:45 PM
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ah, okay
thanks
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cracklover
Mar 15, 2005, 8:49 PM
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There's a lot of good info that got written up last time. Please see this thread.
GO
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