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uasunflower
Mar 21, 2005, 10:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
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Per shakylegs request, an ice TR -
i was set on this route since last year. Actually after first hearing about the 'ice climbing' thing, i looked up some pictures on neclimbs or neice and a name popped up. Black. Than dyke. Black Dyke. Then there also was this picture by Larry and a passing mention by my partner - what, black dyke? loud laugh. Let's go to flume and set up a top rope.
this year i was still back at it. still scared to lead, but pumping out less, swinging better and even able to tell the difference between various tools. Heck, i even tried leashless. I kept repeating the black name. My partner kept finding reasons - too cold; conditions unknown; another party of friends preparing to go there. I even did my first lead, in that awkward constricted flume place. The spring came, the ice season was almost over. Let's do it, said my partner.
No, it's not a casual undertaking, and we did not take it that way. We went all in. Wake up at 2 15. bleary-eyed drive into the darkness. getting out of the car in the twilight time that mountains offer not only at night but also before the morning gods start their cart. The approach was more pleasant than i remembered it from the numerous summer trips as all the boulders were frozon solid, a trail well broken. As the sun started to make its appearance behind the shabby mass of the mountain, the sky turned on its pink coat and i forgot about my 3 hours of sleep the previous night, the avalanche danger from the snowfall, my impending departure, my self too big too often. Total stillness, we became part of that amazement of nature at being gently woken from sleep by the first rays of naughty sunshine. But enough dreaming, the route looms ahead.
It actually doesn't look too intimidating - slabby thin ice attached to some rocks, than ice chimneys to the right and left of a rock pillar, than trees above. Not high, not overhanging, not impressive. What's the deal? i thought to myself. Should i lead the first pitch? My partner's convinced "no" makes me look again at the route. Ok, i'll belay. He went up quickly, the wind started howling right afterwards. The normal freezing feeling started up my toes, my hands turned to ice. The shadow continued moving to the other side of the couloir, in the wrong direction. No, it never gets sun - even if the sky is blue overhead...On belay. So...where is the ice? After a couple of strikes with the pick, i only discover rock under a thin layer of snow. Where is the pro is the next obvious question....2 screws and almost a full rope length? Yup, that's why i still shudder at the thought of leading ice....Thin, but not too sketchy, i'm not warmed up arriving at the belay. Only rock looms overhead.
My partner starts up the rock traverse and disappears around the corner. The rope moves very slowly, inch by inch, but i still know he hasn't stopped to get a screw in. Still nothing, just continuous, painfully slow movement upwards. A clip. That sound makes me happy. And it's not a casual "happy" dropped there for convenience. Climbers will understand.
He moves on. Very slowly. I know he's in good shape, we climbed grade 5 on lake W last w-end - this should be doable. But not seeing him until the end of the pitch keeps my nerves on edge. An unexpected off belay frees me like a parrot released from a cage. The pitch is great - technical to the limit, making ice a pipe dream in this expanse of rock. Big walls are all around - this is intimidating alright! When i see the last, third pitch, i'm in awe. Ice full on, with cool formations reminding us of wings and a glass menagerie. It was hidden from us all along, so it's a surprise to find this pristine ice environment after all the petrified rock. Let's do it! This goes quicker than the dreaded second pitch and in no time we are on the top.
It's a different world, like going from hell into the sunshine and the spotless world of the above. White crystals glistening everywhere, magic trees and chest deep snow. What a climb! It’s only 10 am when we start the walk down. It is an adventure in itself. The first couple of feet take their toll. The more we try to go forward, the more the snow engulfs us inside its bowels and seems to go down endless inches. We finally make it to the trail. The way down is fun, combining glissade, unexpected falls into chest-deep holes, tunnel walking and empathy to the first descentionists of this. We keep going. And going. And going. This seems like a long way! Finally we drop into a stream that looks like it’s a backcountry way of descending Cannon for the brave skiers and snowboarders. Hmmm, don’t remember that from previous descents…Oh, we are much to the right and make it all the way to the Lafayette campground instead of the cannon parking lot. But the snowmobiles are here for a reason! Let me tell you what a joy it is to catch a ride on one of these 2-skied monsters after several hours of un-motorized progress! And how happy the machine is, finally full of purpose, bringing a rambling climber back to his forsaken destination. Let’s roll!!!!
To finish the day in style, we drive to rumney and to our amazement find almost a full parking lot of proud hardmen. It’s sunny, hot and relaxing. Long live sport climbing!
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nurocks
Mar 21, 2005, 11:38 PM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
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Nice TR...
Despite the fact that we started climbing at the SAME TIME. I am still taking babysteps, while you stole the car keys from your mom's pocket book before you were out of diapers.
As I work on Trad Leading 5.6's I still smile at you "working" .11's and leading just above my toprope level. I am glad you had a good trip and accomplished your seasons' goal. I only wish I had your courage...or Ukranian Fury as the Masshole contingent seems to call it.
Great story,
Jason
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paulthenurse
Mar 22, 2005, 2:44 AM
Post #3 of 7
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Registered: Jun 23, 2003
Posts: 221
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Great job Julia!!!!! I'm dying to tick that off.
PTN
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ambler
Mar 22, 2005, 5:32 PM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
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In reply to: No, it's not a casual undertaking, and we did not take it that way. We went all in.
"A black, filthy, horrendous icicle 600 feet high. Unclimbed."
How can anyone resist that description? Nice going on your ascent and TR!
In reply to: My partner starts up the rock traverse and disappears around the corner. The rope moves very slowly, inch by inch, but i still know he hasn't stopped to get a screw in.
cheers,
L
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shakylegs
Mar 22, 2005, 9:24 PM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Aug 20, 2001
Posts: 4774
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In reply to: Per shakylegs request, an ice TR -
Woohoo, I've got hard-body trad babes doing my bidding. I rock!
Honestly, though, great TR. Brought me back to the approach. And the descent.
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edge
Mar 22, 2005, 9:49 PM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
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Awesome TR, Julia!!
The Black Dike carries a well earned reputation; it has been a major milestone for many a great climber. Congrats on your successful ascent!
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uasunflower
Mar 23, 2005, 5:54 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
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thanks for all the comments!
and sorry for spelling - you'll have to forgive me, i'm still only ukrainian :oops:
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