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joek
Mar 28, 2005, 7:36 PM
Post #26 of 38
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Registered: Nov 14, 2003
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don't forget to put knots in your rap lines.
don't forget your stickclip, you lousy stickclipper.
that meat on a stick? donkey meat, don't eat it.
those pretty girls at the bus station? stay away!
remember to say than you to everyone that helps you. yes, you could say, "gracias", but show them you have a little respect for their wonderful culture and language, and say "pinche cabron". they will appreciate it!
and don't forget to bring back some mexican food for your friends. they love tacos!
and seriously dude, put knots in the end of your rope when your rappeling, otherwise you won't be bringing tacos back to any of your friends.
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midwestishell
Mar 28, 2005, 7:49 PM
Post #27 of 38
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 147
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I will let you know when I figure our a good way to fly home with a taco.
How about I bring them back one of those cute girls at the bus station instead? I am sure I know a few guys who would like that.
TH
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jcr
Mar 28, 2005, 8:32 PM
Post #28 of 38
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Registered: Feb 17, 2004
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In reply to: A helmet is great advice there. I witnessed a lot of rockfall. There are multipitch routes that take off above popular cragging areas creating a rockfall hazard.
Ths is a must.
In reply to: the locals in general are real cool and intrigued by climbers
very nice people, but they dont mind much having their "ranchero" music playing at very high volumes, be prepaed for this.
In reply to: We ate the food and didn't drink tap water and none of my group of 8 on the trip got sick.
Water is FINE, you wont get sick. That water in Mexico is not clean water is just a myth.
In reply to: If you like good beer then Potrero is not your place. Carta Blanca (which seems to sponsor the entire state of Nueva Leon) is everywhere and for me was hard to drink. It was cheap though which for some adds some consolation to the aftertaste.
Did you know that Mexico is one of top countries for beer making (quality AND taste).....much more above than USA (no offense), and right up there with Germany. Try indio, if you are used to good beer, you will like it.
As for eating and camping try La POSADA, excellent, clean and comfortable place, owners are very nice and you'll find everything you need there if you wish to cook something.
Take WATER with you at all times. Potrero can get pretty darn HOT in this time of year. Remember WATER WATER WATER.
Also, a 60m rope is required and some routes need a 70m rope.
Remember that 90% of the routes in potrero are sport routes so you'll need quickdraws (some routes need up to 14 draws).
Ask for magic ed to get the topo, its about 15 dlls.
In reply to: All in all, Potrero Chico is an amazing place.
Thats right! HAVE FUN.
JC
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8flood8
Mar 28, 2005, 11:02 PM
Post #29 of 38
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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oh yah --
don't forget the 60-70m rope.
AND bring some walkie talkies!! seriously -- wind--- loud cranking mexican music reverberating off of every corner of the canyon...
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kitakat
Aug 15, 2005, 7:04 PM
Post #30 of 38
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 28
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About those Walkie-talkies...that really is a GREAT idea. I've climbed the multi pitch stuff out there with and without them and it definitely qualifies as a good thing to have.
Also, there are now big stadium lights in the canyon that face the walls for night climbing. You can now climb on the Mini-Super, Central Scrutinizer, and Jungle walls at night. It's the COOLEST!!! Make sure to bring a headlamp too just in case...
One more thing, Dane Bass has been working all summer on a new full featured Guide Book that will have all the most up-to date route information as well as historical info. It will include bolt counts and height info for all the routes in the potrero too. Look for Dane the next time you get down there for Beta, on any aspect of Potrero Life...He's lived there (almost) forever and has put up more than 1/4 of all the routes in the canyon!
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naw
Aug 18, 2005, 10:44 PM
Post #31 of 38
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Registered: Sep 13, 2004
Posts: 192
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Thanks for the tips....I'm heading down in mid November for three weeks. I wonder if I'll be able to get the extension pole for my stick clip on the plane?
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kitakat
Aug 22, 2005, 7:49 PM
Post #32 of 38
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 28
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I was just in the Potrero this past weekend and the weather is SOOoooo nice; and it will only get better as the season for climbing gets closer. The campgrounds will start getting busier around October 1st (but are open all year)
There are now something like 45 NEW ROUTES that weren't there last year, so get ready for some SWEEEEEeeeeeeT new stuff.!
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mother_sheep
Aug 22, 2005, 8:12 PM
Post #33 of 38
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
Posts: 3984
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So is Potrero a total cluster over X-mas? I plan on heading out on X-mas day and coming back to Denver around January 1 or 2. How about over Thanksgiving? Thanks for the info.
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camhead
Aug 22, 2005, 8:32 PM
Post #34 of 38
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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yes tracey, it gets pretty crowded the week between xmas and New Years. I usually just stay totally off the long routes that week. It is still a way fun place for the atmosphere and parties, and if you look out of the way you can still find good stuff to climb.
I'll be down there for at least a couple weeks this winter.
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kitakat
Aug 22, 2005, 8:33 PM
Post #35 of 38
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 28
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I certainly wouldn't call it a Cluster....
I absolutely LOVE the scene when it's packed down there. There are about 500 routes out there, so there's always something to climb. But...If you don't like the happy sound of clinking quickdraws outside your tent at sunrise then you should probably avoid the Potrero at X-mas.
There are so many places to camp that you're never out of luck for a place to stay. AND...you can always camp in the canyon for free.
My favorite part of the busy time is meeting climbers from all over the world that I can visit at other times of the year. Last year I met people from Germany, Mexico DF, Canada, Korea, Texas, California, New York, Arizona, Arkansas, and so many more places...How cool is that? :-)
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kitakat
Aug 22, 2005, 8:46 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 28
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Oh yeah, don't worry about a stick clip unless you're climbing really hard stuff. The things that are runout are generally that way because they are easy. Occasionally, some of the hangers from the first bolts are stolen, but usually only in the most active spots like Virgin Canyon and Jungle Wall
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charman
Aug 22, 2005, 9:14 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Jun 15, 2004
Posts: 27
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In reply to: We bought air tickets to Monterrey. However, we still do not know how we are getting from the airport to the rock. If it really is going to be empty should we be VERY concerned with reservations at one of the camping spots? We tried to contact posada but haven't heard back yet. Thanks for the good beta. It is very helpful. Thom
Dont worry about reservations , Potrero will be all yours , You have bring helmet , drink lots of water cos during august and septermber potrero is very hot , you should get the guidebook with magic Ed everybody know him there
BEST moderate climbs , space boyz , snott girlz, sierra madre treasure , aguita de coco, jungle mountaineering.
11s at mota wall there is a bunch
11+, 12s Milesky wall (amazing climbs)
12+,13 el surf
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kitakat
Aug 23, 2005, 1:09 AM
Post #38 of 38
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Registered: Aug 9, 2005
Posts: 28
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There's also a new full featured Guidebook by local Potrero Chico legend, Dane Bass, that will be coming out in Mid-November this year that will contain everything you need to know.
It will have ALL of the driving info, the camping info, safety and gear info as well as the route list.
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