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clausti
Mar 31, 2005, 2:00 AM
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Hey y'all, I was wanting to go down to sandrock, alabama to do some rope climbing this weekend, but Dixie craggers is out of print and pretty much unfindable, and drtopo only has bouldering guide. I could have sworn I've seen pictures of people sport climbing down there, though, and I have three requests.
Does anbody know of another website wherd I could get some beta? neither my partner for the weekend nor I has ever been to sandrock and I don't know how lost we'll be without a guide. Comfy leading up to 5.11b/c sport.
OR, is anybody gonna be down that way this weekend that needs a partner and wouldnt mind showing me around a bit?
And where is the best camping for sandrock? the only climbing I've done in AL up until this point is at Horsepens40. [which is some truly astonishing bouldering, but the season's trailing out there now.]
The help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
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chrisparedes
Mar 31, 2005, 2:09 AM
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I was up there for a boulder comp. a few weeks ago, but did more sport routes than bouldering. Pretty much everything there is bolted, and when I went I didnt' know much about the area either and just hopped on stuff that looked within my range. Everything is pretty close together so you shouldn't have to explore to long to find something. Also, camping is right at the top of the mountain, it should be easy to find a spot, most of the sites have fire pits. But be careful: when I was there my car window smashed and broken into. My wallett and check book were stolen and it was a fiasco. Anyways, have fun.
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saxfiend
Mar 31, 2005, 3:44 AM
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In reply to: Does anbody know of another website wherd I could get some beta? neither my partner for the weekend nor I has ever been to sandrock and I don't know how lost we'll be without a guide.
Some noted Sun Wall routes, according to Dixie Cragger:
***Misty 5.10 c/d -- the most popular route on Sun Wall, follow six bolts to a chain anchor.
**Popular Science (aka Golden Flake) 5.9+ -- climb the right edge of a huge flake, then up a finger/hand crack to the top (no mention of bolts, so this may not be a sport climb).
*Ale 81 5.10c -- follow four bolts up a shallow groove/seam to anchors.
*Overhanging Jamcrack 5.9 -- follow an overhanging hand crack to top.
*Crack in the Sky 5.10 c/d -- follow a hand crack in flake to an offwidth crack on the right, follow it to the top.
Hope this is some help; if you need more about other specific routes from Dixie Cragger, let me know. Wish I was going!
JL
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pooks
Mar 31, 2005, 3:46 AM
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i've never camped at sandrock, but be careful. i've heard stories of locals harassing small groups of climbers who camp out there.
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gremlin
Mar 31, 2005, 5:06 AM
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Indeed, these guys are correct. I've been there twice while on my way to HP40, and camping is pretty much anywhere you want it to be. The first time we camped 5 feet from the cars, the next time underneath the Fire Pit boulder out of the wind(you won't have problems finding it...it's the huge mulched overhang around the corner from parking). There are lots of locals there, and they are loud, and they do race various vehicles around the trails and roads drunk at night. We didn't have problems with people stealing stuff, but the word is it does happen, so beware that if you camp far from your car or leave expensive looking stuff in plain view.
Most of the climbs are pretty close to parking. To the right of the Fire Pit area are some cliffs with easier things(9's and 10's), as well as a big overhanging cliff, with 11's and up on it(I don't know specific grades, but it is overhanging, and the only grade I was given was 11-12). Down the trail to the left of the Fire Pit is Sun Wall, among others. You should be able to identify it...it's a mega exposed wall, with the 6 bolt Misty on the far right side.
I can't really be of much more help, and if you can't find the Fire Pit area, you're screwed. It shouldn't be too hard though. It's got a V1 pocket problem on it, a V3? arete, and then the classic V5? Chinese Water Torture, a nice water groove problem.
Have fun, and watch the dirt road. It turns into assshit sand at one point, and can throw you for a loop or off the road if you're speeding along not paying attention. And on the way down, there's a left turn that didn't seem like a big deal on the way up that can be tricky if you're going too fast. Tricky as in you fly off the road.
Right off the interstate is a nice little country diner we ate at last time, and it was pretty good. I believe it's one of two options you have of places to eat out if you aren't up for cooking supper that night. So there's that, or a fastfood type thing across the street from it. I'd go for the local flavor if I was you. Have fun.
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mr8615
Mar 31, 2005, 5:10 AM
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Clausti: Where are ya leavin from? I could be up for a sandrock trip this weekend! I've been there a handful of times and could show you what's what roughly. The New is lookin wettish til sunday, so a long trip just might be what the doctor ordered. Sent you a PM.
Mark
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gremlin
Mar 31, 2005, 5:40 AM
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Me/steve/kerry/chris are going to the New on Sunday Mark, if Sandrock doesn't happen. Probably hit up Bridge area for some Trad and a bit of sport is what the word is.
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emotionus
Apr 8, 2005, 9:10 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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i'm at sandrock as many weekends as I can go. pm me if you are there and need to be pointed at routes. I suck ass at climbing, but I know the general range of climbs there.
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one900johnnyk
Apr 9, 2005, 1:27 AM
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haha you do not want to camp there... you'll be fine without a guidebook i think, just walk around a little... let me suggest turning left and hitting some of the routes on teh sunwall, particularly misty which is to the right there.... anyone at sandrock should be able to tell you where misty is. if you can lead five elevens i wouldn't sweat just walking around and eyeballing.. i'll be happy to mail you a replacement bailbiner should any of this information serve youw rong... have fun
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