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jten
Mar 30, 2005, 8:00 PM
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Hello all,
I'm new to the website so I thought I'd take advantage of the forums. I'm sure this has been talked about before but I tried doing a search and found no specific info. I'm wanting to head to Potrero and I was wondering what the belay stations are like on most of the routes (mostly climbin 5.7-5.10). I've learned the multi-pitch stuff in a gym, equalizing, using 3 anchors, belaying from above, etc. I'm wondering, do the belay stations have three bolts to share the weight? Or do you have to sling something extra? Are a majority hanging belay stations?
Also, is there a thread out there about the process of multi-pitching so I can revieve and compare what I learned?
Thanks for any info
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wjca
Mar 30, 2005, 8:23 PM
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After I learned how to climb multi-pitch trad in the gym, I went out on my own without any guidance from someone with experience and found that pretty much all of the routes indeed had three perfect bolts at the top, just waiting to be equalized. Granted a few of them had only two bolts, but those were set up right next to huge tree or bolder that I was able to sling with the 40 feet of webbing I always carry when trad and sport climbing, and sometime even bouldering. Granted, I have never been where you are wanting to go, but I am sure all crags are the same.
Good luck.
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rockhound71
Mar 30, 2005, 8:39 PM
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A lot of questions about the EPC lately! New Mecca?
I just returned from there about 2 weeks ago. All belay stations have from 2 to 6 bolts (to accommodate multiple parties). Not too many hanging belays, at least on the routes I got on. Spaceboyz (recommended) had maybe 2 true hanging belays.
Have a blast!!!!
Casey
____________
A coward turns away, but a brave man's choice is danger.--Euripides
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petsfed
Mar 30, 2005, 8:43 PM
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In reply to: After I learned how to climb multi-pitch trad in the gym, I went out on my own without any guidance from someone with experience and found that pretty much all of the routes indeed had three perfect bolts at the top, just waiting to be equalized. Granted a few of them had only two bolts, but those were set up right next to huge tree or bolder that I was able to sling with the 40 feet of webbing I always carry when trad and sport climbing, and sometime even bouldering. Granted, I have never been where you are wanting to go, but I am sure all crags are the same. Good luck.
3 bolts at the top a trad climb?! I can only dream of being so spoiled. In any event, you rarely need more than 2 bolts at a belay of less than a bigwall route. But then again, most of the routes I do don't have any bolts on them. Crazy huh? The standard bolted anchor for a multipitch route is 2 bolts. Anymore than that and the developer was paranoid, inexperienced, or bored. Often times you'll get a lot less.
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wjca
Mar 30, 2005, 9:29 PM
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Hosh,
The sarcasm is there, but you have to really want to see it. Look again real close.
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tradrenn
Mar 30, 2005, 9:58 PM
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In reply to: After I learned how to climb multi-pitch trad in the gym.
What ?
Is that your sarcasm ?
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 31, 2005, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: Hosh, The sarcasm is there, but you have to really want to see it. Look again real close.
What you call sarcasm, I call being a dickhead. Although I find it hard to believe anyone would take you seriously, you never know. Sarcasm doesn't belong in the beginners forum. Take it to community.
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wjca
Mar 31, 2005, 7:37 PM
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My apologies. I certainly did not mean to be a dickhead. I'll go back to Community.
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tenesmus
Mar 31, 2005, 8:13 PM
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In reply to: Hosh, The sarcasm is there, but you have to really want to see it. Look again real close.
I thought it was funny as hell. This particular instance of n00b flaming was very nicely done. Not really vindictive. Just enough sarcasm to make them think for themselves.
Very well done.
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slobmonster
Mar 31, 2005, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: Sarcasm doesn't belong in the beginners forum. Take it to community. |
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jcr
Mar 31, 2005, 8:50 PM
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Do take someone experienced with you...
JC
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jten
Mar 31, 2005, 9:27 PM
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Anyways...I just wanted to know as much as I could find out about EPC before going there. To ease everyone's mind, I will be going out there with someone who has been there before and we're not talking trad here, we will only attempt routes that were fully bolted. I just wanted to get the most info I could about the area since it seems the only guide book is at EPC...you know, always be prepared. Well, thanks for all those who took my post seriously. It's good to know that people new to this site will be treated with respect and given accuate advice and information without thinking that they're just asking another stupid question.
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wjca
Mar 31, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Jten,
Don't get discouraged by some asshole on the internet. Your original post made it sound as though you learned how to climb multi-pitch in a gym somewhere and now you were heading out on your own to tackle the rock. Such a proposition is just begging to get flamed, if not by me, then by the next person on this site (okay, maybe not the next person, but at least the third or fourth person). I my mind, multi-pitch means trad, and is not something you learn in a gym one night and go at on your own. I am one of those people with ethical issues about bolting a mountain into submission.
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ricardol
Mar 31, 2005, 11:06 PM
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How to multi-pitch climb ...
Lets assume billy and sue are going to do a multipitch trad route.
1 - Billy leads the pitch, sue belay
2 - Billy sets up a bomber anchor at the top of the pitch.
3 - Billy secures himself to the anchor's powerpoint (i use the climbing rope to do this, there are several methods, try them, and then pick your favorite)
4 - Billy calls "Off Belay" to sue
5 - Sue responds "Belay Off" to Billy
6 - Billy takes up the slack on the rope, and then puts sue on belay. There are several methods to belay a second. I like to use a reverso (belaying device) which attaches to the anchor's powerpoint and then belay off that. You can also belay off your harness, and redirect the rope through the powerpoint. However you do it, make sure that the majority of the weight of the climber will be held by the powerpoint of the anchor in case of he/she falls.
7 - Billy calls "Belay-on, climb when ready!" to sue
8 - Sue breaks down the anchor she is at.
9 - Sue calls "Climbing" to let billy know that she is moving.
10 - Billy belays Sue as she climbs the pitch. Sue should organize the gear as she cleans it, so that the transition at the next belay will be quick. -- as Billy belays sue, he also keeps the belay organized by carefully stacking the rope (either on the ledge if there is one -- or by coiling it on his knee, or a rope hook if the belay is hanging)
11 - Sue cleans the pitch, reaches Billy's belay.
12 - Sue secures herself to the anchor's powerpoint, calls "Off Belay"
13 - Billy takes Sue off belay and calls "Belay off"
14 - If sue is going to lead the next pitch, she takes the rack from Billy -- or If Billy will lead, he takes the gear from Sue. (lets assume that sue will lead the next pitch)
15 - Billy puts Sue on belay. Billy is belaying Sue from his waist, and the rope is clipped through the power point of the anchor. Billy calls "Belay On"
16 - Sue removes herself from the anchor, calls "Climbing"
17 - Sue places a piece as soon as she can, so she doesn't factor 2 onto the anchor
... (wash, rinse, repeat)
-- ricardo
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Aconite
Jul 8, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #16 of 18
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Registered: Apr 9, 2007
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What is the best way pull a second line for a double-line rappel from the second pitch? Rope hook, butterfly coil, just leave it in a sack and have the second bring it up? Am I thinking in the right direction?
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coolcat83
Jul 8, 2009, 9:41 PM
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either trail it or have the second being it, remember you are already carrying gear, so the second should haul some too
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hafilax
Jul 8, 2009, 9:50 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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Aconite wrote: What is the best way pull a second line for a double-line rappel from the second pitch? Rope hook, butterfly coil, just leave it in a sack and have the second bring it up? Am I thinking in the right direction?
Tailing the rope means that nobody will have to carry the full weight of the rope for the entire climb.
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