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Good Alpine tent?
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weasel


Apr 8, 2005, 4:37 AM
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Good Alpine tent?
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I'm looking into buying a tent for the summer, but I also want to be able to use it in the snow/wind. I'm currently looking at the North Face Mountain 25. It takes a bit of convincing to get me away from North Face tents. Big fan. Though I havn't had a ton of experience with other brands, so please suggest anything.

Thanks for you help.


guanoboy


Apr 8, 2005, 4:58 AM
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I have the NF 25 and I only use it for car camping b/c it is so heavy. I would only bring it up high if it were to be shared by 3-4 people. I'm planning on using the snow cave/bivy sack route.


jsoper


Apr 8, 2005, 5:17 AM
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Mountain hardwear annapurna. Bomb proof, light (obo2.x lbs), roomy vestibule. sweet alpine tent.


adnix


Apr 8, 2005, 7:00 AM
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I would go for Bibler or the new Black Diamond superlight series. Simple design, will fit on a small ledge and weights only little more than two bivy pouches.

For base camp use I got North Face Expedition 36 but it's too heavy to carry around. Plenty of room to read books, though. Same floor size than VE-25 but three inches more head space and bigger vestibule. Heck, the vestibule is about the size of the Bibler tent.


akclimber


Apr 8, 2005, 7:18 AM
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I have slept in the BD First Light. Worked well on a regular cloudy night. However all over the web are mixed reviews on how waterproof the tent really is (it is sold as water-resistant).

It is worth getting a decent tent though. I spent too many nights in a shoddy ass tent, and every time there was rain, I would come out wet: Go figure, eh?

I got a new tent is by alps mountaineering, set it up inside, looks like good construction, have not found out how good yet though.

Everyone always says Biblers are bomber. How good are they? I have thier tripod bivy, and it is pretty damn nice.

Will start another thread on Bivy-sacs....


adnix


Apr 8, 2005, 8:30 AM
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In reply to:
I have slept in the BD First Light. Worked well on a regular cloudy night. However all over the web are mixed reviews on how waterproof the tent really is (it is sold as water-resistant).

Everyone always says Biblers are bomber. How good are they? I have thier tripod bivy, and it is pretty damn nice.
I haven't used it yet (in alpine environment) but I'm planning on using the BD as a substitute for bivy pouches in the Alps while doing multiday routes. It won't hold constant rain for more than a day and if you pack it wet it'll hold even less. But for snow storms and freezing nights it should be ok. If it leaks a bit, it's still better than a bivy pouch.

Never heard anyone complaining about Bibler (other that price that is).


rockprodigy


Apr 8, 2005, 4:28 PM
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How are you defining "alpine"? The NF 25 is nowhere near that category. I have one, and I love it for basecamp, but usually "alpine" means "light", basically something you would carry up and down a technical route. If I recall, it's about 10 lbs!

I use that tent when there is an airplane or helicopter that will be dropping me off on a glacier and I can set it up and leave it there. The only time I have carried it farther than a 1/4 mile was when we had 3 people sleeping in it, and then we didn't carry it up the route, just to an "advanced base camp".

For "alpine" stuff, I have a Stephenson's Warmlite that sleeps 3 (2 really comfortably), and weighs 2.75 lbs.


reno


Apr 8, 2005, 4:46 PM
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I've got a NF Mountain 25, and while it's a very solid, dry, spacious, warm tent, it's FAR too heavy for fast-light alpine use.


weasel


Apr 9, 2005, 1:28 AM
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Cool, thanks for the feedback on the NF 25. I think I'll be passing on that one.

I'd love to buy a Bibler, but I really don't think I have the money, although we'll see how that works out. The ones I'm looking at now are the Marmot Alpinist or the Bibler I-tent. I just want something light and freestanding, and possibly cheap. I'm also glancing at the BD firstlight. It's listed as a 3 season, but I hear it can be used for more than that. Any opinions?

Also, perhaps someone can comment on the North Face Tadpole. Not an extreme mountaineering tent I know, but still a nice tent. Cheap too.


adnix


Apr 9, 2005, 6:04 AM
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In reply to:
I'm also glancing at the BD firstlight. It's listed as a 3 season, but I hear it can be used for more than that. Any opinions?
Any tent will do 4 season as long as it doesn't have fiberglass poles. Below is some propaganda found on the net. It's not my personal experience.

In reply to:
Hello, we took the lightweight Mega Mid and Firstlight with us to the Ruth Gorge (along with much older BD gear) in April this year.

Thanks for making the lighter weight version of the Mega Mid. It served us well as a cook tent. We used the Firstlight as our 'route tent' on Peak 11,300 on the West Fork of the Ruth. It did well all three nights we used it (during two attempts). We had frozen condensate on the inside but I expected that during the cold nights. To have such a packable, lightweight tent, I see no reason to ever take a bivy sack (unless the route didn't allow a tent). I had a rock under my head at one bivy and the material held up. Thanks for making this little gem!

I just thought I would let you know how your gear did in the hands of the average joe. Didn't get a chance to attempt our original goal, the Harvard Route on Huntington, but have plans to head in next season for a go. Cheers.

—John Fitzgerald testimonial on www.bdel.com
In reply to:
2-person, single-wall tent

A Bibler I-tent. If you are really tall, get a Bibler Eldorado instead. Share the cost with your partner. Single door (saves weight). Seam grip it using the syringes and the seam-grip provided by Bibler, but make sure you wipe off the excess, so that you are adding minimal weight to the tent. You do not need a tarp (see discussion of this below). The weight of the Bibler I-tent is approximately equal to the weight of two bivy sacks, but you get the added benefit of sharing heat. For light-and-fast or carry-over type climbs, leave the tent poles at home and use the tent as a two-person bivy sack. The little aluminum tent stakes that come with the tent, can be put in a drawer and forgotten. You will likely never need them.

I've been experimenting with using the Black Diamond Firstlight tent. It weighs about 1.5 lbs less than the I-Tent, but has the same footprint. It's light weight makes it appealing for use in alpine climbing, but I'm not sure I would recommend it all situations. For example, I would not recomment it as a a tent for Mount Rainier, or for a many-day trip when a large amount of rain is expected. However, it makes an excellent choice as an emergency bivy sack, which I used recently after breaking my leg on Mount Baker.

http://www.speakeasy.org/...y/climbing/gear.html


mattq331


Apr 10, 2005, 3:43 AM
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I recently bought the Marmot Alpinist. My preference would really have been the Bibler Eldorado, but I couldn't justify the extra expense.
While I haven't yet tested the tent in anger yet, here are some initial thoughts:

Pros:
Quality made - all seams are sealed, and the workmanship seems high quality to me
Lightweight - not much more than the Bibler
Less expensive than the Bibler (cost me $375)
Small vestibule is built-in, unlike the Bibler where it's an extra.

Cons:
Primarily the strange buckle on each leg. This is a metal clip with an attached tape and fastex buckle. This whole thing has to be threaded through the sleeve during erection. At first I couldn't believe the stupidity of the design. It kept catching as I fed it through. I had visions of a nightmarish struggle while on a route.
In truth though, I have found with practise that it is not that difficult, but I'm still not sure about it.
The vestibule is SMALL - I'm not convinced that there's enough room to cook without risking firing up the tent. But it is a good place to stash boots.

All in all, not a bad tent, but at $200 less than the Bibler, you pays yer money...


cynic


Apr 10, 2005, 4:14 AM
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I actually used the Marmot Alpinist last september when I went up the Kautz Glacier on Rainier. The construction is great, it is very simple to set up and guy down and packs nice and small. However, thanks to the built in vestibule and huge headroom it does not shed wind very well...the broad side of a barn door comes to mind...I spent the entire night before our summit day listening to the wind sounding like it would rip the tent off the mountain only to step outside and find a pretty mild breeze. It also seems to be prone to extra condensation, our last night on the mountain I woke up in a puddle of water, which may have had something to do with the cloud we were sleeping in but still something to consider.

Personally, I have a MSR Fury which is an awesome, bombproof tent and quite light for its specs.

just my $.02


adnix


Apr 13, 2005, 11:00 AM
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In reply to:
I have slept in the BD First Light. Worked well on a regular cloudy night. However all over the web are mixed reviews on how waterproof the tent really is (it is sold as water-resistant).
This should clear some air around the issue. It's not waterproof but resistant enough on most cases.
In reply to:
Shop Talk: Lighter than two bivy sacks with better foul weather protection and more usable room. This tent has performed without flaw in Alaskan alpine weather. But, if you plan to punish your tent or hang out in pouring rain, the micro fiber will get over whelmed.

The question is, how waterproof is this water resistant tent? It has survived a meter of snowfall in the Range, and several overnights in the wet Chugach snowfall and drizzle.

http://www.alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=487


cfnubbler


Apr 13, 2005, 12:40 PM
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I've been very pleased with my I-Tent (Bibler).

-Nubbler


swesterhus


Apr 15, 2005, 7:25 AM
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You should really find a cure for your North Face fetish. The Tad Pole is best suited for travellers, and should not be advertised as a mountain tent in any respect. :?

Stian


weasel


Apr 16, 2005, 2:57 AM
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In reply to:
You should really find a cure for your North Face fetish. The Tad Pole is best suited for travellers, and should not be advertised as a mountain tent in any respect.

I don't have any kind of "north face fetish" Stain, I've just had a couple of their tents in the past and been very impressed with them. So naturally they were the first company I looked at. I know they're a sellout trendy company now, and I woulden't be caught dead in one of their jackets, but I still like their tents.


tempestwind


Apr 16, 2005, 8:33 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
You should really find a cure for your North Face fetish. The Tad Pole is best suited for travellers, and should not be advertised as a mountain tent in any respect.

I don't have any kind of "north face fetish" Stain, I've just had a couple of their tents in the past and been very impressed with them. So naturally they were the first company I looked at. I know they're a sellout trendy company now, and I woulden't be caught dead in one of their jackets, but I still like their tents.

Aren't the TNF 25 tents made in china by a completely different company and TNF just "slaps" there name on it?


graniteboy


Apr 21, 2005, 4:59 PM
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I have a bibler I tent, which is OK as long as you're not Really doing bad weather stuff. When the going gets windy and 4 season, like alaska range, I prefer a heavier alternative, like the NF mountain tent or the wild things mt tent. Those bibler's justy don't hold up to the big winds....had a brand stinking new one shred on me on denali once in a storm. But they're cute and light and a good choice for low key summer alpinism stuff in the lower 48.


russ34


Apr 22, 2005, 6:33 PM
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because i get a chopper to drop me off to base camp, i use a tough 3mm type of foam for a tent bottom protector. less need to find clean sharp free site


tempestwind


Apr 28, 2005, 12:36 PM
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Anyone Have any experience with the Kelty Ledge Tent??


adnix


Apr 28, 2005, 1:00 PM
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In reply to:
Anyone Have any experience with the Kelty Ledge Tent??
If it has aluminium poles, it'll do the job (unless it's really windy).


altelis


Apr 28, 2005, 1:17 PM
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I would really suggest the Sierra Designs Omega tent. Its really a fully functional tent:
-i had it up at the by the col of Mt. Harvard in CO during a tornado warning....i was leading a trip and all my particpants kelty's were all just about destroyed, tents leaning over like 50 degrees from the horizontal and the omega was never once bent over at all! it was reallly totally bombproff
-i've used in winter camping in me and the white mtns in new hampshire and NEVER had a problem with it being a full 4 season tent.
-for summer use, it has whole roof sections that unzip out to leave only mesh, the nylon door zips out, and if its really warm, you can set up the "tent" with only the poles, footprint and the fly

its one of the first convertible tent i've used that is actually a full on alpine 4 season tent that
check it out: http://www.sierradesigns.com/tents.display.php?id=65


montafoner


May 1, 2005, 1:46 AM
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First off, I'm no expert.

I think there needs to be some clarification between a 4-season and an alpine tent.

I think a 4-season tent is designed for use in snowy conditions where weight isn't too big of a deal and wind isn't too strong. Most with vestibule for cooking. Comfort is important.

A alpine tent is designed to go through a frozen hell (snow/ice and high winds) and light is right. Small foorprint. Comfort, who cares?

Feel free to add your comments, as mine are brought to you by Fat Weasel Ale.


adnix


May 1, 2005, 5:16 PM
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In reply to:
I think a 4-season tent is designed for use in snowy conditions where weight isn't too big of a deal and wind isn't too strong. Most with vestibule for cooking. Comfort is important.
I'd disagree. Some 3 season tents make good alpine tents. It really depends on what you're planning to do. Tents sold as "alpine" are usually made for very high winds and base camp use. They don't mix too good with hard climbing (ie something more than walking uphill).


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