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cor
Apr 21, 2005, 2:25 AM
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I am gowin to climb the walk up rought on denali I need a tent And I am considering taking a mega mid if you of any one you know of has climbed Denali using only bivy bags and a megamid and lived to tell about it I would to hear from you.
Thanx a millyon
Cory
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crazyj
Apr 21, 2005, 2:41 AM
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I know several people that have climbed Denali and none of them used said living arrangements.
I hate to burst your bubble, but you + Denali = a very bad idea. I'm not saying you "can't do it" or "you will die", but based on the limited information in your post I'd bet that the probability of you having success on Denali is slim to none.
Here's a tip: Denali is a worthy and exciting objective for sure, but have you considered other mountains or routes? Maybe something not as "advanced" and more in tune with your ability. There is no shame in doing moderate routes in more hospitable parts of the world until your skills equal your ambitions to take on such a mountain. I would suggest ticking off some routes and building your way up to such an endeavor. It doesn't have to be the biggest mountain for you to have fun.
Disregard my advice if you already have a comprehensive climbing resume.
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prezwoodz
Apr 21, 2005, 2:51 AM
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i know of a few people. you can ask some at the mca or alaskamountainforum probably wfinley or even western chugach would probably know. Other than that. i am not sure but why temp fate with a mountain like that more than you already are? And im pretty sure polarwid from here could give you some sort of awnser ;)
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bluefunk
Apr 21, 2005, 3:37 AM
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Either you're joking or you're frikin' stupid. Bring a good shovel because when your tarp blows away you will be living in a snow cave. I bet you are going "solo" right.
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akclimber
Apr 21, 2005, 12:11 PM
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In reply to: Either you're joking or you're frikin' stupid. Bring a good shovel because when your tarp blows away you will be living in a snow cave. I bet you are going "solo" right.
Tsk. Tsk. If the man likes to spend several hours every few days digging a snow cave, let im have at it. Keep in mind, warmer and quieter than a tent. :shock:
Cory, honestly, do you have experience or are you just dreaming?
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graniteboy
Apr 21, 2005, 4:50 PM
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I've done denali using a megamid and snow caves. Now, I might not be the one to ask, cause I've only been up the big mountain a handful of times by a few routes.... :roll: but Let's face it, kids....Once the wind gets going 80mph +, there ain't a frikkin tent out there that can withstand it over the long run, despite what all these inexperienced gearhead weenies in here say.
Use the mid as high as the 11,000 ft camp, then dig in at 14 and 16 K when you get there. There's a good cave location right over the pass at the 16,200 headwall...usually has a cave in it anyway. Then wait a couple days for the weather, and haul ass to the summit and back. Caving at 17k is not a good idea. Not enough snow usually.
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rockprodigy
Apr 21, 2005, 7:45 PM
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How do you guys have any idea what his qualifications are. You all should be park rangers. You can sit at the visitor center in Talkeetna and try to talk people out of climbing it.
They all told us that we would fail too, boy were they surprised!
The North Summit was climbed in 1910 by a bunch of miners. I'm sure they would have been psyched to have a bivy sack.
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neurostar
Apr 21, 2005, 9:22 PM
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In reply to: Tsk. Tsk. If the man likes to spend several hours every few days digging a snow cave, let im have at it. Keep in mind, warmer and quieter than a tent. :shock:
Probably lighter too. :wink:
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akclimber
Apr 21, 2005, 9:47 PM
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Though something to keep in mind: The megamid wieghs 3 1/2 pounds, bivy wieghs 1. Brings your total to 4 1/2 pounds. Why not just have a tent and be livin it up? Bibler I tent weighs what 6 pounds?
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chugach001
Apr 21, 2005, 10:25 PM
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T1
Illiterate T1
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graniteboy
Apr 22, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Actually, Mr "akclimber"...I don't bring a bivy sak. They make these miracle materials called "waterproof breathable" fabrics now, and, hot damn...they're even usin em on the outsides o sleepin bags...and at least once a week during climbing season, it gets warm enough to dry your bag off a little on the big Mtn...In fact, I've even dried my bag off while living in a cave at 16K.
As for Bibler tents...they aren't up to the task for the big range.... fine below 9,000 feet though. but cramped. and weak.
I had one explode on me in a mild windstorm at 17,200 one time...whereupon I built an igloo and learned my lesson. never use a bibler on a big mountain.
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cor
Apr 22, 2005, 5:49 AM
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thank you 4 the good beta that is exsactly what I am gona do
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cor
Apr 22, 2005, 5:58 AM
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dear crazy j I hate 2 burst your buble but just kuz I sound like a wanker doz not mean i hav little or no chance of sucsess I said nothing about my climbing expereance witch will be cosidarably more than moast of the people on the rought. I have a beter chance of making it than moast. and in my opinyon bringing a light weaght tent increses my chanes of living. If you want to hear about some of my climbing 2 see if it is up 2 par with the rigors of the west butress poast this again.
Cory
P.s spelling is in no way conected to climbing
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akclimber
Apr 22, 2005, 5:59 AM
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In reply to: Actually, Mr "akclimber"...I don't bring a bivy sak. They make these miracle materials called "waterproof breathable" fabrics now, and, hot damn...they're even usin em on the outsides o sleepin bags...and at least once a week during climbing season, it gets warm enough to dry your bag off a little on the big Mtn...In fact, I've even dried my bag off while living in a cave at 16K. As for Bibler tents...they aren't up to the task for the big range.... fine below 9,000 feet though. but cramped. and weak. I had one explode on me in a mild windstorm at 17,200 one time...whereupon I built an igloo and learned my lesson. never use a bibler on a big mountain.
I am not sure if this was supposed to be sarcasm, or if you just cant type, but if it was, let me quote your profile. "I like other climbers who are not egocentric." :shock:
On your tent explosion, did you build a half decent wall?
I was merely throwing out info, to each, his own, eh?
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takanhase
Apr 22, 2005, 6:05 AM
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In reply to: There is no shame in doing moderate routes in more hospitable parts of the world until your skills equal your ambitions to take on such a mountain.
Mike.
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cor
Apr 22, 2005, 6:37 AM
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befour you assume some one is totaly lame and tear in to them over the internet like a sisy mayby you shoud ask them about ther expereance climbing. I rely dont pretend 2 know how mutch is enough expereance is enough for the west butress but mayby all of u hear on the net could help me decide if this is the rought 4 me. hear is a short list of some of the climbs i have climbed. mt hoodx6,all volcanos in oregon,mt rainer,mt baker,north face of mt bukner,the salatha wall, the nose, the north amaric wall,mt crossen(in alaskrange),mt frances(in alaskrange)east ridge of mt temple,mt wadington,halfdome in a day,I dont know if this qualifys me for the west butress or not but at least now you wont be an ass when you tell me I am to lame to climb the west butress.
ps.I dont give a f*** what any body on the god d*** internet says I am gowin
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akclimber
Apr 22, 2005, 9:22 AM
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Oh man, I am not one to normally correct spelling, but sheesh...
Cory, when you going? Got your permit? How big is the team, just you?Might see you on there, let me know.
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crazyj
Apr 22, 2005, 1:21 PM
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In reply to: dear crazy j I hate 2 burst your buble but just kuz I sound like a wanker doz not mean i hav little or no chance of sucsess I said nothing about my climbing expereance witch will be cosidarably more than moast of the people on the rought. I have a beter chance of making it than moast. and in my opinyon bringing a light weaght tent increses my chanes of living. If you want to hear about some of my climbing 2 see if it is up 2 par with the rigors of the west butress poast this again. Cory P.s spelling is in no way conected to climbing
Read the last sentence in my post. Most of the tripe on this message board comes from the mouths of 15 year olds. If you have the skills, more power to you. Good luck.
FYI - Your spelling and grammer does resemble that of a teenager. HAHA! Take care.
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roadman33
Apr 22, 2005, 2:23 PM
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Hey is this post from cory r?
If so, you guys, he's just fucking with us. If it's from who I think it is, he's a bad mofo in the mtns. I met him at red rocks one year and he's done a shit load of climbing.
Maybe not?
Anyway, the first guy to solo denali in the winter did it w/out a tent. So for all that say it's crazy--- well it is, but that's beside the point.
Gota love AK. Best place for adventure.
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rockprodigy
Apr 22, 2005, 6:14 PM
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If you're serious about that experience, you might want to try the West Rib. You'll have more fun away from the wankers on the Butt.
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scott_davidson
Apr 27, 2005, 4:31 AM
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I love how all the shit talk ends when cory says what he has climbed. why did you all assume he sucked till he had to post his resume. all he wanted was beta about how megamids held up to wind and how bivy/mid combos did for warmth and had to sort through a bunch of wanker bs to find anything that resembled beta.
remember you dont have to respond to every post you read, especially when you have to google search half the routes he has climbed.
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graniteboy
Apr 28, 2005, 4:04 PM
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At any rate, back to the point of cory's question.... I appear to be the only one here who has played the megamid game on the big mountain, so maybe rather than slinging shit my way, you should shut up and listen for a change.... Megamids are useable up to 10K or 11k. I would (and have ) use a cave above that, whether on the West Butt or across the way on the muldrow (these are both of the "walk up" routes).
I strongly suggest that you bring a good shovel....as a good shovel is worth it's weight in gold above 10K on the big mountain. Brian Okonek (if you don't know who that is, shut up and listen) always carried a STEEL shovel up there when he was guiding.
I use an old Black diamond shovel that fits on my ice axe shaft. I had it modified (beefed up a little) by a competent TIG welder. Good luck and keep your sox dry.
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drake
May 16, 2005, 3:30 PM
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In reply to: Hey is this post from cory r? If so, you guys, he's just f---ing with us. If it's from who I think it is, he's a bad mofo in the mtns. I met him at red rocks one year and he's done a s--- load of climbing. Maybe not? Anyway, the first guy to solo denali in the winter did it w/out a tent. So for all that say it's crazy--- well it is, but that's beside the point. Gota love AK. Best place for adventure.
They did not us tents because it much warmer in a cave.
I made my first "quenzey" (sorry about the spelling) when I was in the range a few weeks ago. Worked great. I do hate how the ceiling starts to sag after a couple days.
Hey Cory,
don't forget they make the MegaLight. Aside from the pole, it packs down the size if a large grapefruit and weighs 30% less than the regular megamid.
I do like how easy it is to keep my gear dry in a tent & how much easier it is to dry gear, even on cloudy days. But more power to you cowboy!
Let us know how it goes.
Jedi
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q
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May 23, 2005, 3:00 AM
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I've had great success with my Bibler, from Utah to the Ak Coast ranges in winter. A pal spent 3 nights in one during storm at 26000' on Everest. The tent is only part of the equation- how you deal with it is big. With a Bibler and a good shovel you can go anywhere.
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