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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 11:20 AM
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How do you size a Katana?
Yes, I've used the search function and checked through the past posts but have not reached any precise conclusion out of it. Some people say they don't stretch, other people say they do. Is the Katana the Bermuda Triangle of climbing shoes?
I wear a US 8.5 street shoe and a US 9 Nike running shoe. My current climbing shoe is a LS Mythos in US 6.5 (Euro 39) that after repeated use have NOW stretched to a comfortable but very snug fit (more of performance sport fit than a trad fit).
I've tried Katana in US 6.5 (Euro 39) and US 7.5 (Euro 40) in the shop. The size 39 is very very tight, but I was able to perform the 15-minute walking test, although I felt discomfort/slight pain in the top of the big toe and the outside of the pinky. The size 40 was tight but comfy and there was some bunching of the leather on top of the toe box signaling a not ultra tight fit.
Some say you should undersize the Katana between 1 and 1.5 sizes from your street shoe as being lined they don't stretch more than half a size. That would be a US 7 (Euro 39.5) for me but I have no chance of trying that size. Considering I wear an unlined mythos in size 39, should I go for the lined Katana in size 39? This shoes will be strictly used for sport climbing. Thanks for your contribution to this dilema.
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clarki
May 6, 2005, 12:15 PM
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I have bee through several pairs of both Katanas and Mythos. Sportiva and Scarpa are pretty much all I can wear with my fat foot/skinny heel combo!
I wear a 39 Mythos for a snug but comfy long route shoe and a 38 Katana for a tight sport/bouldering shoe. I wear a US 7.5 street shoe. The Katanas do stretch a little, perhaps a half euro size so keep that in mind. My Mythos have all stretched more like a full euro size though. Get the Katanas just a LITTLE too snug and you should be alright after they break in....Good Luck!
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mheyman
May 6, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Me:
US8.5
Mythos 40
Katana 40
Mostly by length. Katanas have more volume in the forefoot than Mythos.
You? You are going to have to decide.
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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 1:11 PM
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In reply to: I wear a 39 Mythos for a snug but comfy long route shoe and a 38 Katana for a tight sport/bouldering shoe. I wear a US 7.5 street shoe. The Katanas do stretch a little, perhaps a half euro size so keep that in mind. My Mythos have all stretched more like a full euro size though. Get the Katanas just a LITTLE too snug and you should be alright after they break in....Good Luck!
Clarki,
Thanks for your guidelines. One more question: being a US 7.5 street shoe size, are you happy with a Euro 38 (US 5.5) Katana for tight sport/bouldering or would you go with half a size more?
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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 1:15 PM
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In reply to: Me: US8.5 Mythos 40 Katana 40
Thanks for your reply. One more question: Is the size 40 in Mythos and Katana a "trad/long route" fit or a sport/bouldering fit? Thanks
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andy_reagan
May 6, 2005, 1:21 PM
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Go to local gear store. Try on shoes. It ain't rocket science.
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sem_smp
May 6, 2005, 1:29 PM
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I wouldnt compare shoes sizes based on different shoes or even street shoes. Im all over the place when it comes to street shoes and have had the same experience with climbing shoes. I wear mad rock locos 10.5, Sportiva miuras at 41 and Katanas at 39.5. I feel they are all equally agressive but each one has a different fit. Miuras do fit more comfortable and I dont keep my Katanas on for more than a sport route or several attempts at a boulder problem. If you are looking for precision and aggressive shoes try them on the snug size. If you tried katanas at 40 and they were comfortable without being painful try the 39.5. After a while they mold to your feet ( they dont stretch much) and feel better.
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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 1:33 PM
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In reply to: Go to local gear store. Try on shoes. It ain't rocket science.
Really? I'd thought it was rocket science. :shock:
Don't you read the posts? I DID went to a local gear store. But my question is about stretching after actual climbing use compared to my current shoe. THAT you cannot try on the store. Thanks for your contribution anyway.
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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 1:38 PM
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Thanks SMP_SEM. I don't have access to 39.5 and yes I want them for an aggresive and precise fit. Just out of curiosity, what do you have in street shoe and running shoe size? Thanks.
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miuralover
May 6, 2005, 2:04 PM
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The big question is what do you want to do with the shoes. The katanas will stretch out in the toe box quite a bit. Personally I get them REALLY tight (can't even get the left foot on), I wear them at my desk on and off for a couple hours and they stretch to nice comfortable fit and edge fairly well even when totally blown out. When I tried a half size larger I couldn't edge in them after using them for a month, they would just roll on my foot. Being a velcro they have no way of tightening down over the forefoot so you need to get them small so they stay tight.
But that's me and I want an edging shoe that I can just slip on and off without worrying about the laces. I wear the same size miura as katana but only wear them for very technical face climbing, and go a half size larger for trad/multi pitch.
If you passed the 15 minute walk test they are not too small and will stretch. If they were still tight after 15 minutes then they are probably the correct size.
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yetanotherdave
May 6, 2005, 2:18 PM
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I tend to downsize sportiva shoes a ton, since they fit me so well I can get away with it reasonably comfortable.
I'm about the same as sem_smp - 10.5 street 39.5 sportivas (for hard-route shoes).
My venoms are 39.5, but are so comfy I can do all-day routes in them!
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montaniero
May 6, 2005, 2:34 PM
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Miura Lover: Please give me your numbers (street, running and Katana). Thanks.
Thanks for your contribution yet-another-Dave
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sem_smp
May 6, 2005, 2:42 PM
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Too be honest I mostly wear sandals. If I had to choose a running shoe size it would probably be 8.5 or 9. Like someone said after me, they should fit tight but not painful. If they are TOO comfortable they will stretch too much for edging on tiny holds. So if 40 leaves youre feet feeling like someone bound them in tape and you can barely walk with them its prolly your size. Just remember, you wont be able to walk but you shouldnt be in pain while sitting down. When i first got my shoes i could barely walk in them and now they are fine, but they never hurt while climbing or sittin down. Good luck.
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kriso9tails
May 6, 2005, 2:50 PM
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When I bought my katanas I bought them to the size I'd climb in, which remarkably (for me), was at least two and a half sizes smaller than my street shoe size. For the first few sessions I could wear them for twenty minutes continuously without any discomfort, but now I can keep them on for an hour.
They did stretch out just a tiny bit wider, making them a lot more comfortable, but it really hasn't diminished their performance as far as I'm concerned.
Hope that helps some.
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sanguineclimber
May 6, 2005, 2:57 PM
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I love my Katanas. I'll probably get another pair whenever mine need to be resoled(that way i won't have to wait for them). I usually wear a 43 in boreal and scarpa, but my katanas are 42. Don't be affraid to go try a pair on. You can get these shoes nice and tight, and they're still comfy enough to wear .... well almost all day. :wink:
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ahwoo
May 6, 2005, 3:48 PM
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well, my street size is 10 1/2. i started off with a pair of size 41 katanas. they were real tight at first, but then they ended up stretching a bit too much. seems like one day i just had a lot of space in my toe box. so now i wear 40s... a little more painful to break in, but the fit on them is great. i had a lot of problems with the heel on my 41s, but the 40s fit like a glove. seems like most people i talk to have a little problem fitting the heel on these shoes, but it's never an issue. just the occasional foot fart.
street 10 1/2 US
katana 40 euro
and all my 5.10s are size 10 US
hope this helps
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tattooed_climber
May 8, 2005, 3:11 AM
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KATANA"S ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ok, you can't break those shoes in, they'll break your feet in...
synthetic stretches next to none....BUT the upper toe box is leather, so that area with stretch and can be broken in.....
AS WELL, it depends on how to put the shoe on depicts the fit...
:::::::::::::::::
-By pulling the upper strap first will pull your heel into the back of the shoe
-By pulling the bottom strap first will pull your toes into the toe box
FUCKING AWESOME SHOE THOUGH!!!!!!....too bad my tendinitis doesn't allow me to crank on crimpers as much as i would want to...cus them shoes (fitted right) can stand on anything
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andrewbanandrew
May 8, 2005, 11:08 PM
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Size 8 mens
36.5 in Katanas...only had em for two weeks though. I was tempted to go down to a 36 but I had to fight to put the left one on (left bigger than right foot)
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montaniero
May 10, 2005, 11:36 AM
Post #19 of 19
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Thanks, guys! All great posts that helped me solve the Katana sizing puzzle. I bought it in size 39 (US 6.5). Considering that some people in this post have downsized more than two sizes and some people less, I believe I got in the median. That should work! Thanks again!
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