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clmbr3
Feb 8, 2005, 10:07 AM
Post #26 of 40
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In reply to: Alex Huber soled a 14a at his home crag. He is the first to solo the grade (5.14) . Thats another question. Who was the first to solo 5.10 , 5.11 , 5.12 , and 5.13??
Good question, tough answer.
5.10? I dunno - probably some old Dresden climber in the 1920s? (Or maybe Paul Preuss touched the grade on his Dolomite forays in the early 1900s - as alpncmbr said, though, I've always heard that he "only" soloed up to 5.9)
5.11? Well, Bachar did New Dimensions in 1978, the first 5.11 solo in Yosemite (definitely not the first worldwide, though). Maybe someone knows a Euro who did the first? (There's an unprotected 5.11 route in Dresden that Barber backed off of that was done way back when... not really a solo, though - but no pro to be had). I also think Jim Collins soloed The Naked Edge (5.11b) before Bachar did New Dimensions (an impressive solo, considering that he'd fallen on the final pitch 3 of the 4 times he'd done the route!!!)
5.12? Well, Gill on the Thimble... probably not a true "solo," though, since a fall would most likely not have been fatal. Otherwise... I think Yabo soloed Leave it to Beaver (12a) before anyone else did in the States? Maybe someone soloed a 12 on gritstone even earlier, though? (like Fawcett?)
5.13? No idea. Russ Clune soloed Supercrack (12c/d) in 1985. Scott Franklin soloed Survival of the Fittest (13a) in 1986, which is supposedly the first consensus 13 soloed by an American (according to Yankee Rock and Ice). Again, I'd guess a Euro did it first.
5.14? Tricky ground here. Huber got the recent press for it... but I know there have been "solos" of 5.14s where they weren't facing a death fall. I think Dani Andrada "soloed" a short 14b/c with a stack of pads... Some hard grit routes have been soloed (I know Ben Heason has soloed 13+, not sure about 14a). Who was the American who soloed Cop Killer (correct name?), a 13d/14a?
Another interesting query would be who onsight soloed at those grades first...
(Also, has the Phoenix been soloed?)
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fryinbacon
Feb 8, 2005, 12:57 PM
Post #27 of 40
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In reply to: Derek Hersey Free solos the diamond three times in one afternoon and one was downclimbing! Derek was in a class all by himself.
all on a few fig newtons and a snowball... bad ass solos
howabout Mark Twights expolits on mixed ground everywhere from Chamonix to Big Cottonwood...
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moonshine505
Feb 8, 2005, 2:32 PM
Post #28 of 40
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
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not sure about a cop killer solo...maybe you're thinking Dead Souls, which (I think) Travis Fadjo solo'd in 2003
Also, Der Kommunist is .14a, and huber couldn't consistently do the crux on a toprope, so he decides to solo it anyway. Yeah, that makes good sense :shock:
Also, didn't bachar have to down-solo the gift?
Ahhhhh, climbing trivia, what a way to start the day.
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adnix
May 8, 2005, 6:39 PM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: May 20, 2003
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Chirstophe Profit: American direct on West Face of Dru in 3 hours (ED, 5.11b, 1050m).
He had lunch on the way since time was no objective. He did it in 1982.
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jv
May 8, 2005, 7:40 PM
Post #30 of 40
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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Honorable Mention to:
Henry Barber for The Strand (Gogarth);
Pete Livesey, DNB; and
Walt Shipley, the Harding Route on Keeler Needle.
JV
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healyje
May 8, 2005, 7:54 PM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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In reply to: The only ones that have significance to me are the ones I did.
Actually you're not far off the mark here - if you're free soloing to achieve some sort of "signifigance" for anyone other than yourself you're an idiot.
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lucas_timmer
May 8, 2005, 8:17 PM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Dec 28, 2004
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In reply to: What free solos would you consider to be significant for their time, throughout the history of rock climbing? More recently, I would say Alex Huber's free solo of the Hasse-Brandler route (.12a), Potter's exploits on Fitz Roy, Croft's solo of Astroman in the 80's, and Gullich's solo of Separate Reality could be considered significant. How about earlier stuff? mike b. |
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roadman33
May 8, 2005, 8:57 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Registered: May 27, 2004
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Charlie Fowler = DNB on middle C, the the valley.
How about steve H on K7? That's the shit!
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johnnym
May 8, 2005, 9:00 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Apr 21, 2005
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What about Wolfgang Gullich on Seperate Reality? That's hardcore!! :roll:
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rendog
May 8, 2005, 9:22 PM
Post #35 of 40
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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how about Michael soloing Equinox or EBGB's or the moonbeam crack? Airy Interlude nakid in the Needles? Uncle Fester, I could go on, but this guy is on fire....
Anything that Bachar, or Croft or any of those guys did back in the when....now that's "CORE!"
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healyje
May 9, 2005, 7:30 AM
Post #36 of 40
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Edit: dupe post...
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g-funk
Deleted
May 9, 2005, 8:15 AM
Post #37 of 40
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How about all the free solos by Michael Reardon? Maybe not the hardest stuff around, but fierce nonetheless.
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kachoong
May 9, 2005, 8:34 AM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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Messner, Rupal face, Nanga Parbat
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estwing
May 9, 2005, 11:38 AM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 344
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How about Utah Steve Seats on Northern Lights in Squamish. I hear that its a pretty burly climb. He said the crux for him was the 5.8/9 face moves.
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tonedawk
May 9, 2005, 12:56 PM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 20
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"Forrest Gardner soloing Flagstone at Sunset, AFTER falling on it twice on rope. He had done the route many, many times and came back to climbing after taking quite a bit of time off. He got so irate about having trouble with it, that he lowered off and untied and soloed it."
-Chris Watford-
Flagstone goes at 5.11a
:shock:
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