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thrmaln
May 10, 2005, 5:36 PM
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Hello All,
I have been sport climbing since February and have been considdering giving bouldering a try. The reason why I have shyed away from it is that even a V0 route correlates to a 5.10a and I am a 5.9 climber at the moment. However, I can see that if I spend some time bouldering, I can spend more quality time working on technique to help me build skills towards the 5.10 level. So my question is, will bouldering build skills quicker then sport climbing? When I sport climb I tend to only get in about 4 or 5 climbs, but with bouldering there is no down or setup time between attempts or moving to other problems.
I currently climb at stoney point about once a week after work on TR but would like to possibly give bouldering a try if I could schedule a time to meet people and try it out since I do not have a crashpad. Anybody boulder after work on a regular basis at stoney?
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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chrisparedes
May 10, 2005, 6:06 PM
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YES YES YES! In my opinion, there is no better way to build strength and technique than bouldering; lots of hard moves in a short period of time. Start working V0-V2 problems and you will be on your way to be a much better climber. But don't look at bouldering just as a way to get better at sport climbing, bouldering is a completly respectable form of climbing in it self and Im sure you will find that it is a great way to climb. Good luck and STICK IT (as the popular and sometimes annoying bouldering rhetoric goes.)
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jammer
May 10, 2005, 6:11 PM
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Bouldering will help you focus on the areas of climbing you are weaker at, but first you have to find your weaknesses. Sport climbing requires more endurance then bouldering. TR and keep notes on where you feel you need improvement. Then find your bouldering problems that emulates the type of climbing you want to improve and go for it! Short answer ... yup!
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boulderman
May 10, 2005, 6:17 PM
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If you want to work on pure technique and power, bouldering is the best way to go in my opinion. You will learn a lot of new movement quickly. But, if hard sport climbing is what you are after in the long run don't forget about keeping your endurance up and your head in the game. Although, when training for true endurance, there isn't much of a replacement for getting on long routes and climbing. You can work power-endurance by circuit training or doing 4X4's on boulder problems. Also get on a few exposed sport routes at some point during your weekly training sessions just to keep yourself "on" mentally.
This was my reason to start bouldering and look where it got me.... I loved bouldering so much, I rarely climb routes now. But you know what.... they will always be there and I will continue to get stronger while I boulder exclusively.
And... although I hate quotes, this is one that I live by. "If you can't pull a single hard move, what do you have to endure?"
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snoangel
May 10, 2005, 6:20 PM
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You've got the right idea to supplement your sport climbing with bouldering. I started bouldering this past December and I have really seen an increase in my strength. Just remember that bouldering does not help with your stamina, unless you take no rest time between each problem and shake out on the rock.
I would suggest getting on some Vb problems first as those are the easiest (I know Stoney has some). Run laps on them and throw in a V0 or V1 as a project to build your strength. As the Vb's get easier, use them as your warm-up and continue to add more challenging problems to your workout. Also, if there are any traverses available, definitely get on those. They will help your stamina and technique a lot. That being said, don't stop roping up.
I've been following this workout (in the gym) since January and have gone from a Vb- to a V2 boulderer as well as from a 5.10a to a 5.10+ sport climber.
I would love to join you in Stoney, but it's too far for me on the weekdays. Good luck with bouldering!!
Rita :)
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headchop
May 10, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Minor point - according to the grade charts here on rc.com, V0 is closer to 10d, not 10a (grades).
And yes, bouldering should help you to both build strength and improve technique. You should keep doing routes to maintain your endurance.
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boulderman
May 10, 2005, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: And yes, bouldering should help you to both build strength and improve technique. You should keep doing routes to maintain your endurance.
But, lets say you do get side-tracked and just boulder for a while.... Endurance is much easier and quicker to build than power. So, endurance will come quickly if you need to train for a sport road trip.
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jt512
May 10, 2005, 6:47 PM
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In reply to: I currently climb at stoney point about once a week after work...
If you want to improve at a noticeable rate, you need to climb more than a few hours one day a week. Join a climbing gym, and try to get three or four climbings days in each week. You'll see improvement whether you boulder or climb routes.
-Jay
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thrmaln
May 10, 2005, 6:47 PM
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Hey All,
Thanks for the great replies. I figure I will continue to TR at Stoney every Tuesday after work and work on my endurance. I just bought a dozen Quickdraws and my goal is to be able to lead lower grade 5.10's by the end of summer. There is a 5.10b/c climb at stoney (Sculptures Crack) I have my eye on as a goal by the end of summer as well. I will do my best to find one day a week (Probably Thursdays) where I just show up without my TR gear and do some traversing and bouldering. Stoney is convenient for me since I commute to work and pass it every day.
As far as the grade mistake, I did not have my book with me and made the mistake thinking V0 was the lowest I forgot about Vb. I have the urban rock book and will get started maybe with traversing until I get a crashpad. I will look at the sticky crashpad thread for information. The Madrock Madpad is on sale at REI for under 100 bucks is this a good one to start with or should I spend time reading the threads to see what is better. I am a big guy 6'4" and 225lbs. Not wanting to turn this into a crashpad thread, but should I look for a thicker one for someone my weight?
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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jt512
May 10, 2005, 8:45 PM
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In reply to: Hey All, Thanks for the great replies. I figure I will continue to TR at Stoney every Tuesday after work and work on my endurance. I just bought a dozen Quickdraws and my goal is to be able to lead lower grade 5.10's by the end of summer. There is a 5.10b/c climb at stoney (Sculptures Crack) I have my eye on as a goal by the end of summer as well.
Now there's stroll down memory lane. Sculpture's is a proud endurance line!
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gamehendge
May 10, 2005, 9:02 PM
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Yes. All the time. :D
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climbsomething
May 10, 2005, 9:12 PM
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In reply to: Minor point - according to the grade charts here on rc.com, V0 is closer to 10d, not 10a ( grades). And yes, bouldering should help you to both build strength and improve technique. You should keep doing routes to maintain your endurance. |
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andy_reagan
May 12, 2005, 1:12 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Minor point - according to the grade charts here on rc.com, V0 is closer to 10d, not 10a ( grades). And yes, bouldering should help you to both build strength and improve technique. You should keep doing routes to maintain your endurance. Even more minor- the ratings chart here is featherbagged. V0 really is about 10a(ish). Boulder <--> YDS comparisons are an imperfect science, but nonetheless, V0 is a fair bit easier than 10d.
I see what you're saying, but I think you're missing the point. The YDS scale (though not originally invented as such) factors endurance which for the most part boulder problems do not. The conversion chart is suggesting about the maximum difficulty you are going to encounter on a sport route of any grade, its not an exact science, obviously, since every route is different. I'd say V0 for a 10d is about right for the normal route. Hell, you only usually have to pull V2-3 cruxes on 11c-11d.
To get back to the OP, yes, in my limited experience I think bouldering is excellent training for sport (its pretty fun in and of itself as well). I wouldn't get too worried about the V-grade you are pulling though, since you likely will not have to pull incredibly hard moves until you move up into the higher grades.
For now I would focus on getting out to different areas and working on technique. Naturally you will begin to get stronger and pull harder moves.
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headchop
May 12, 2005, 1:58 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: And yes, bouldering should help you to both build strength and improve technique. You should keep doing routes to maintain your endurance. But, lets say you do get side-tracked and just boulder for a while.... Endurance is much easier and quicker to build than power. So, endurance will come quickly if you need to train for a sport road trip.
True. And my situation exactly - long weekend in Rumney coming up and I haven't done anything but boulder (mostly on plastic) since last fall.
Guess I should move on to enduro training for the next week.
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jt512
May 12, 2005, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: Hell, you only usually have to pull V2-3 cruxes on 11c-11d.
A V3 crux on a 5.11? Where do you climb? V3 is 5.11+, so unless the rest of the route were dead easy, a 5.11 route should not have a V3 crux.
-Jay
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jdouble
May 12, 2005, 5:01 PM
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In reply to: Hey All, Thanks for the great replies. I figure I will continue to TR at Stoney every Tuesday after work and work on my endurance. I just bought a dozen Quickdraws and my goal is to be able to lead lower grade 5.10's by the end of summer. There is a 5.10b/c climb at stoney (Sculptures Crack) I have my eye on as a goal by the end of summer as well. I will do my best to find one day a week (Probably Thursdays) where I just show up without my TR gear and do some traversing and bouldering. Stoney is convenient for me since I commute to work and pass it every day. Marc Webster
Hey Marc. Just a couple of other routes you might be interested in.....
Malibu Creek
Gorilla Drilla (10b)
Katmandu (10b)
Powder Puff Girls (9)
Williamson Rock
-on the stream wall, almost in the middle, a 10a/b that goes through some black rock. Also the two 9's to the right of it are long and fun.
-the 10c's on the waterfall wall (if it ever dries up this year!)
-Stay away from Totum Pole until you are comfortable in the 10s.
Hope it helps.
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gamehendge
May 12, 2005, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hey All, Thanks for the great replies. I figure I will continue to TR at Stoney every Tuesday after work and work on my endurance. I just bought a dozen Quickdraws and my goal is to be able to lead lower grade 5.10's by the end of summer. There is a 5.10b/c climb at stoney (Sculptures Crack) I have my eye on as a goal by the end of summer as well. I will do my best to find one day a week (Probably Thursdays) where I just show up without my TR gear and do some traversing and bouldering. Stoney is convenient for me since I commute to work and pass it every day. Marc Webster Hey Marc. Just a couple of other routes you might be interested in..... Malibu Creek Gorilla Drilla (10b) Katmandu (10b) Powder Puff Girls (9) Williamson Rock -on the stream wall, almost in the middle, a 10a/b that goes through some black rock. Also the two 9's to the right of it are long and fun. -the 10c's on the waterfall wall (if it ever dries up this year!) -Stay away from Totum Pole until you are comfortable in the 10s. Hope it helps.
just to add..
Malibu Creek-Mt. Gorgeous
Gorgeous .10a
Family Jewel .10c
route between Gorgeous and Family Jewel .10b
Malibu Creek-Stumbling Blocks
approach .5
Chopping Block .8
3rd Degree .10b
Malibu Creek-Power Wall
every climb is pretty good on this wall
left to right .10a/.10b/.10d/.9/.9/.10c
Echo Cliffs-Grotto
Gameboy .8
Miss Pacman .9
SuperFly .10a
Welcome to Echo .10a
Echo Cliffs-Easy Street
Casey @ the Bat .10b
Dugout .10c
..some of the more easy/moderate and fun climbs in the area.
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andy_reagan
May 26, 2005, 2:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hell, you only usually have to pull V2-3 cruxes on 11c-11d. A V3 crux on a 5.11? Where do you climb? V3 is 5.11+, so unless the rest of the route were dead easy, a 5.11 route should not have a V3 crux. -Jay
Yes, Jay, I agree with you for the most part. But, for example, there is a 5.11d route at the NRG that is basically a hard V3/easy V4, followed by 25 feet of easy 5.10. This would be near the upper limit of difficulty you would expect to pull on roped up on ~11d, in my (again very limited) experience. Most likely, even a hard 11 route that is considered "bouldery" would only contain V2/3 moves, I would say.
Peace,
Andy
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fracture
May 26, 2005, 3:30 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Hell, you only usually have to pull V2-3 cruxes on 11c-11d. A V3 crux on a 5.11? Where do you climb? V3 is 5.11+, so unless the rest of the route were dead easy, a 5.11 route should not have a V3 crux. -Jay Yes, Jay, I agree with you for the most part. But, for example, there is a 5.11d route at the NRG that is basically a hard V3/easy V4, followed by 25 feet of easy 5.10. This would be near the upper limit of difficulty you would expect to pull on roped up on ~11d, in my (again very limited) experience. Most likely, even a hard 11 route that is considered "bouldery" would only contain V2/3 moves, I would say.
A V3 should really only be possible on an 11d if the rest of the route adds nothing to the overall difficulty (as Jay argues). If people get pumped and fall off during that "easy 5.10" section, I think you are probably either misrating the route or misrating the boulder problem.
Which route are you talking about at the NRG? (I don't climb there, but someone who does may be able to comment).
Far from,
In reply to: Hell, you only usually have to pull V2-3 cruxes on 11c-11d. |
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danegerous
May 27, 2005, 2:29 PM
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this is such a good point to bring up. bouldering has long been the underappreciated little brother to trad and even sport. but little bro has grown up a lot.
i have gone from a Vb- climber to a V0 in about a month. my endurance is decent but when id get to any serious 5.XX crux's i'd fold cause i wasnt conserving energy. i focue immensely on technique and energy conservation when bouldering. what if the crux is near the bottom? i need to be able to make the rest.
i love bouldering because since it doesn't involve any setup or tear-down, i just climb where and when i want. so, i see a problem i like, then climb it. then think, wow...that was a V1! far more relaxing for me.
not to mention the power and skill that is needed for it...some of those moves are killer! i was on norope.com watching some of the vids there...i have a lot to look forward to.
all that to say, keep bouldering! and dont let any any trad-nazis treat you differently...(sounds like what a mom would say to a boy born with an extra small wee-wee).
danegerous over and out.
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ikefromla
May 27, 2005, 2:34 PM
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In reply to: Malibu Creek Katmandu (10b)
barely 10a. let's be honest with ourselves before grade inflation makes this climb 5.11. it's a tennis shoes warm-up for god's sake.
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kalcario
May 27, 2005, 3:22 PM
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*my experience is more that you only need to pull V3 to climb 12c. And of course, super endurance stuff will have even easier moves. The "crux" of Goliath (5.13a) at Enchanted Tower, for example, is no harder than V3. *
agreed, the ability to do v5 moves will get you well into 5.13's if you have the mental game to go with it
and I have got to do that Goliath route one of these days...
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andy_reagan
May 27, 2005, 7:34 PM
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In reply to: Which route are you talking about at the NRG? (I don't climb there, but someone who does may be able to comment).
Cirrohsis of the Leader, Bubba City, NRG.
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jt512
May 27, 2005, 8:56 PM
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In reply to: this is such a good point to bring up. bouldering has long been the underappreciated little brother to trad and even sport. but little bro has grown up a lot. i have gone from a Vb- climber to a V0 in about a month. my endurance is decent but when id get to any serious 5.XX crux's i'd fold cause i wasnt conserving energy. i focue immensely on technique and energy conservation when bouldering. what if the crux is near the bottom? i need to be able to make the rest. i love bouldering because since it doesn't involve any setup or tear-down, i just climb where and when i want. so, i see a problem i like, then climb it. then think, wow...that was a V1! far more relaxing for me. not to mention the power and skill that is needed for it...some of those moves are killer! i was on norope.com watching some of the vids there...i have a lot to look forward to. all that to say, keep bouldering! and dont let any any trad-nazis treat you differently...(sounds like what a mom would say to a boy born with an extra small wee-wee). danegerous over and out.
We really should index these incoherent posts. Some of them are classics. It would be a shame to have them lost to furture generations.
-Jay
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danegerous
May 28, 2005, 5:58 PM
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im not whether i should say thanks or not...but i like the word incoherent, so i will...thanks :D
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