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elissa01
May 22, 2005, 3:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2005
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Hi,
I was just wondering how people come up with the grades on some routes/problems? Like 5.9 and stuff like that. Just curious :)
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micronut
May 22, 2005, 4:26 AM
Post #2 of 16
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
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i, too, wonder how some people come up with the grades they come up with. 5.9 A2 my ass
i think some rate it by how many hits off the crack pipe they took before they dreamed they sent.
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shortfatoldguy
May 22, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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I've never established a new route, but I tend to sort existing routes into two categories:
I can do it (i.e., it's 5.10a).
I can't do it (i.e., it's at least 5.11d).
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rendog
May 22, 2005, 5:01 PM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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three grades really
5. fun
5. fvcking hard
5. really stoopid hard
those are the only ines that count
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charley
May 22, 2005, 11:34 PM
Post #5 of 16
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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I start with, must be easy if I did it. Then move on to, dam that was fun. :lol:
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kachoong
May 22, 2005, 11:49 PM
Post #6 of 16
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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....if you ever find the time to climb with Philbox you'll find two grades of climbs....
1) This climb is stoopid (see Ren's #3) ....meaning "I can't do the damn moves on this pile of choss crap, but wait I'll keep trying it until it becomes the second grade"
2) This is the best climb ever.... meaning "I'm so glad I persisted on this friggin' awesome line. It's not so bad after all!"
Each climb will be a number 1 until it is defeated, in which case it will become a number 2 ie. the best climb in the world!
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clausti
May 23, 2005, 5:36 AM
Post #7 of 16
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Registered: Oct 5, 2004
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5.fun, 5.hard, V-sick, in that order.
actually, really, its "5" because 1-4 are hike ratings, and 6 means you "have" to aid climb it. originally the ratings then went from 5.1-5.9, denonting the range of the things you'd bother with climbing to the hardest that could be free'd. mathmatically, however, 5.10 is the same thing as 5.1, so in the beginning they did not use the 5.10 and above ratings.
and, as i understand it, then ppl did stuff harder than the "5.9" of yore, they lost their arithmatic objections to 5.10>5.1 and we obtained an open ended scale.
every now and again you can still hear people refer to "that trail is just class 3 scrambleing." if that's how you spell the -ing form of 'scramble.'
also, routes can be rated by either the hardest move, or by sustained difficulty. local ethics apply.
ps can somebody move this?
ppl know know more should correct any of this as it is deemd innacurate.
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grover
May 23, 2005, 5:57 AM
Post #8 of 16
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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Grading can be tough so pay attention here.
A- Any route you cruise and don't shit yourself
B- Any route you pull off but sweat a bit, still no shit
C- Any route you pull off, sweat alot and start to log onto your inter-net
D- Any route you have to hang a bit, to check how much you've logged
E- Any route you hang at least half the time and the other half you spend checking your situation below
F- Any route no matter how hard you try, you aint goin knowheres, even more so that your shoes are now brown
G- Any route that makes you crap yourself before you even tie-in
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republiclimber
May 23, 2005, 6:00 AM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Dec 16, 2004
Posts: 345
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i really wanted to make a joke that incorporated those big construction vehicles they use to grade roads....couldn't think of any way to do it.
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jt512
May 23, 2005, 8:55 PM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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There is a precise mathematical formula:
Let:
i = 1 to n index n climbers
j = 0 to m index m YDS ratings
Yij = 1 if the attempt by the ith climber on the jth rated route is a success, or 0 if it is a failure
X1i = the climber's on-sight level at the time of the attempt
X2j = the route's rating, rescaled in some sensible way
P(Yij) = probability of success of Yij
Then:
P(Yij)/[1-P(Yij)] = exp(a + b1*X1i + b2*X2j + b3*Xli*X2j)
-Jay
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happiegrrrl
May 23, 2005, 9:06 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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Don't forget the "Look on Your Host's Face = Priceless" grating system, for use when you are travelling and after your host takes you up some local climb, asks what rating it would get in the Gunks, and you can't help but be naughty and say, after a bit of deliberation, "Well.....that was about like the Uberfall 4th class Descent Route......"
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climbs4fun
Moderator
May 23, 2005, 10:49 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 9679
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Is it just me, or is this climbing talk in community?
:wtf:
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elissa01
May 23, 2005, 11:20 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Apr 29, 2005
Posts: 29
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In reply to: Is it just me, or is this climbing talk in community?
sorry, i dont know how to move it :oops: and yes, i know, i should have put it in a diff. category in the first place.
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micronut
May 24, 2005, 3:37 AM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 1760
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In reply to: In reply to: Is it just me, or is this climbing talk in community? sorry, i dont know how to move it :oops: and yes, i know, i should have put it in a diff. category in the first place.
death to teenage noob :evil: :twisted:
as for ratings, I quote the "old man" at taquitz: " it's whatever you want it to be"
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kriso9tails
May 24, 2005, 3:51 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
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I usually go by the taste test. From there I can determine if the route is mild, medium or strong. Or is that cheese? Y' know, I don't really like cheese all that much.
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