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rossgoddard
May 26, 2005, 12:40 AM
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i find it extremely amusing that folks from around the country have been chiming in on this issue, with little knowladge of local ethics and history.
F Ken. A buddy of mine from aspen CO. did his senior project at Northfield Mt. Hermon Highschool establishing routes, and cleaning up mormon hollow. he's gunna be thrilled to find out of ken's handywork on his hard-earned highschool graduation project, and when he comes back east, im sure he will have a chat with ken.
we need to find this bastard and work a little street justice.
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teamkonarider
May 26, 2005, 12:49 AM
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Damn I thought you were gonna tell me he died chopping or somthing exciting like that.
On a more serious note:
Hey to agree with healyj Ken wouldnt waste the time nor effort to be an SOB. He has been blacklisted in CT for things hes done in the past and would not want to be subjected to the kind of things he has had happen to him in the past, including but not limited to: THE SMASHING OF HIS ROUTE Dol Guldor, the forced arrest of a ct climber due to threats and assault.....
All in all my point is he wouldnt put himself through this kind of ridicule if he didnt think it was absoultly worth it.
I too am trying to get in touch with him, but no luck yet.
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jeffs
May 26, 2005, 1:30 AM
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So everyone hears it from "the horse's mouth", the situation in western Mass is this:
Back in the 80's and early nineties, several worthy crags started to see extensive route development. Crags included Farley Ledge, Mormon Hollow, and the Sunbowl among others. Some of the route developers actually saw Ken Nichols out at Farley one afternoon, shortly before several of the routes were chopped. Subsequently, the developers returned and removed many of the bolts themselves to avoid him getting the satisfaction of chopping them himself. Mormon Hollow was chopped around the same time and lastly, the Sunbowl was completely chopped about 5 years ago.
No redevelopment has occurred since then due to fears that he may return. Four years ago, several locals formed the Western Mass Climbers' Coalition in an effort to improve relationships with landowners, pursue the purchase of crags, and generally, preserve and protect the valuable crags in our area, most of which lie on private property. The WMCC has had great success and has developed solid working relationships with all of the landowners. We also decided that the time had come to begin restoring some of the routes that had previously been chopped. We began with four of five sets of anchors at Farley two years ago just to 'test the waters'. About two years ago, we started restoring some of the routes at Mormon Hollow. We had placed about 16 sets of anchors in all and replaced bolts on three sport routes. Nothing else was added, these were done with the knowledge of the first acentionists, and utilized the old bolt holes where possible. In addition, we also repaired and filled many of the old useless holes on other routes.
Everything lasted about a year in total until "someone" returned to Mormon and chopped the entire cliff about two weeks ago now. This included the chopping of bolts, the smashing in of the sleeves which were left, hammering over four sets of glue-in top rope anchors, and generally leaving us a mess we now have to deal with. As a result, the WMCC began to search for ways to deal with the situation since "he" is now the one that seemingly dictates the ethics of climbing at our crags and frankly, we are tired of our crags getting destroyed leaving us to do the clean-up and landowners pissed off at the mess that was left.
We got information about the car Mr. Nichols drives from folks willing to help out. We got a plate number, make and model, notable stickers, making it difficult to mistake his car from someone else’s. Then, just this morning, one of our WMCC Board members drove by Farley on a whim because it was rainy and cold day and surely no climbers would be out. And who's car do you think was parked at the trailhead?! Yes, the black Mid 90's Ford Ranger, aluminum cap, with CT combination plate number 53C-190 with an Eastford Garage sticker on the driver's side front fender. The Board member who saw his car only had time for a quick scramble to the cliffs to try and find him but Ken is good at what he does and thus, couldn't be found. I got the word shortly after and sent out an urgent message to anyone who get there to confront him before he got away with it again.
To make a long story short, by the time anyone arrived, Ken was gone and most of the anchors at Farley had been chopped. I spoke with the landowner who owns the parking area and she said a man in his mid to late 50's from CT stopped and asked if people were still climbing 'up there'. Unfortunately, she had no idea who he was.
So Ken is back and we have pictures to prove it. We weren't able to get any of him actually chopping and the crags are owned by a large public utilities company who is less than willing to jump into this mess making our situation difficult. Additionally, and probably the thing that pisses me off the most, is the fact that the WMCC took it upon ourselves to post a voluntary falcon closure at Farley after peregrines were spotted nesting there a couple of years back. This came out of a lot negotiating with MA Fish and Wildlife and was well received by all parties involved including landowners. The closure lasts from March until July and was respected by all climbers I know because of what is at stake. Signs marking this closure are clearly posted both at the parking area and the trail head. Obviously, this meant nothing to Mr. Nichols.
The WMCC is fed up. We are letting everyone we can know about the situation and are unwilling to give up. This bullshit has got to stop!! These are NOT his crags, he does NOT have the right to destroy others property, and he can NOT influence how we are supposed to climb at our local crags.
We can be reached at mail@westernmacc.com for anyone willing to help or offer information/suggestions.
Jeff Squire
President
Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition
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micahmcguire
May 26, 2005, 1:36 AM
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hit back at the man! If you see his car, bust the windows out, put sugar in his gastank, light a fire in his back seat. If you see him chopping, shoot at him with a BB gun, then wait for him to come back down and kick his lilly ass.
Or you could be all legal about it and try to take some pictures of him in the act.
I'm just glad we don't have a feller like him up here in AK. That really sucks for yall in the east coast. My sympathies go out to you.
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fear
May 26, 2005, 1:41 AM
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Just grid bolt Dol Goldur. About 100'. I'm betting you could get 30 or 40 1/2" Petzl Glue-ins....
That'd keep him busy.
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guanoboy
May 26, 2005, 1:46 AM
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In defense of the underdog.....
This will probably only fuel those character assasinators out there who are bitter about the $50 they lost on bolts, but...
For those who don't know, Ken Nichols is a dogmatic no-bolts climber who will definitely chop any bolts placed on his own routes and will chop bolts on routes in areas where he has established most of the routes. Ken has, in his history, also chopped some areas outside his turf (NH) in retaliation for bolting efforts on his turf. I don't think hes done this for a long time.
I think most climbers would disagree with Ken's chopping outside his climbs, but keep in mind this is a guy who has dedicated his life to developing amazing (and crappy) routes. Ken and Fred Beckey seem pretty similar in my mind. They both live the dirtbag climber life yet Ken climbs much harder and has set more routes (by number probably not length), but Fred gets all the love (see Alpinist article). More specifically Ken has dedicated his life to developing trad lines - I think that is something we can all appreciate. Ken has established over 1,000 routes, written a thorough guidebook, will gladly share a toprope, climbs laps on 5.12 trad (while in his 50's).
I wouldn't typically have written in Ken's defense but there are two factors that nag at me. First, I just climbed Moses tower in Utah and I was amazed at all the manky bolts, bolts next to deep cracks, empty bolt holes, and filled in bolt holes. Kens bolt-free ethic is more sustainable. Second, I'm not familiar with Farley, but pretty much every cliff in New England can be climbed trad or top roped. I really see no need to bolt a 50' line - or a 200' line for that matter.
I don't applaud him for chopping other peoples routes, but i do applaud his lifelong dedictation to setting great routes and maintaining a 'clean ethic' (how many of you would lead dul guldor, how many of you can lead laps on supercrack at the gunks?).
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bobd1953
May 26, 2005, 1:47 AM
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He is truly one sick and twisted man. Always was and nothing has changed with him in 30 years.
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wormly81
May 26, 2005, 1:47 AM
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Shear,
Not to be coldhearted or anything but why do you and others just sit by while Ken trashes your local crag. I'd accuse you and your friends of having done absolutely nothing but whine on the internet but that wouldnt be true because you took a picture of his car while he bent you over and took you from behind. Weren't you the least bit interested in confronting him or did you run to the nearest library first to post up the travesty.
Jeff
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micronut
May 26, 2005, 1:49 AM
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In reply to: : Four years ago, several locals formed the Western Mass Climbers' Coalition in an effort to improve relationships with landowners, pursue the purchase of crags, and generally, preserve and protect the valuable crags in our area, most of which lie on private property. The WMCC is fed up. This s--- has got to stop!! These are NOT his crags, he does NOT have the right to destroy others property, and he can NOT influence how we are supposed to climb at our local crags. Jeff Squire President Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition
the pro Ken camp needs to grow up. the mature thought in this post speaks for itself. and i can chime in if i want to, unless there's a rule against that in CT as well.
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mburke225
May 26, 2005, 1:54 AM
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In reply to: Again, Ken isn't chopping recreationally. His response is most unfortunate, but I can assure you he is chopping in retaliation for something he regards as a serious provocation in CT. That is not a defense of his actions, or a justification for them, merely a statement of my view of how he operates. It is quite unfortunate he does not communicate the problem before or after setting off on another retaliatory jihad. As before, I'm still trying to unearth contact info for him - if anyone has it or can get it I'm still willing to talk with him...
Second crag hit in less than a month, do you still think he has the same MO?
I'd like to offer a second option. This guy is just a dead end in the evolution of rock climbing who has just realized the world has evolved past all the ethics he's devoted his life to. If it wasn't for all the real life damage he's doing no one would give two squirts of piss about him. Sad, pathetic, has been.
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teamkonarider
May 26, 2005, 2:01 AM
Post #36 of 154
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Registered: Jan 26, 2004
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Anyone who even thinks about vandalizing Dol Guldor will not onlt have Ken pissed at him but a lot of other resident ct hardmen pissed at them; then you just deserve what you get. There is no need to lower the situation to that level.
I think I can speak for most CT climbers when I say we all have our opinions but we can agree to live without sport routes in CT. Tell me somewhere worth bolting other than Bear Rock Ridge or Ice Domes and you will see my point.
Ken is obviously doing this in retaliation b/c he hasnt touched my routes yet, nor will he.
The WMCC sitting there and taking pictures of his car is thoughtful but why would you not go in and say something? If your going to be defensive of your crag well then do it instead of sitting there with you head inbetween your legs kissing your a-- goodbye.
TRADitionally Yours,
Sean
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shear
May 26, 2005, 2:14 AM
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wormly81...
what part of this:
In reply to: We got information about the car Mr. Nichols drives from folks willing to help out. We got a plate number, make and model, notable stickers, making it difficult to mistake his car from someone else’s. Then, just this morning, one of our WMCC Board members drove by Farley on a whim because it was rainy and cold day and surely no climbers would be out. And who's car do you think was parked at the trailhead?! Yes, the black Mid 90's Ford Ranger, aluminum cap, with CT combination plate number 53C-190 with an Eastford Garage sticker on the driver's side front fender. The Board member who saw his car only had time for a quick scramble to the cliffs to try and find him but Ken is good at what he does and thus, couldn't be found. I got the word shortly after and sent out an urgent message to anyone who get there to confront him before he got away with it again. To make a long story short, by the time anyone arrived, Ken was gone and most of the anchors at Farley had been chopped. I spoke with the landowner who owns the parking area and she said a man in his mid to late 50's from CT stopped and asked if people were still climbing 'up there'. Unfortunately, she had no idea who he was. So Ken is back and we have pictures to prove it. We weren't able to get any of him actually chopping and the crags are owned by a large public utilities company who is less than willing to jump into this mess making our situation difficult. Additionally, and probably the thing that pisses me off the most, is the fact that the WMCC took it upon ourselves to post a voluntary falcon closure at Farley after peregrines were spotted nesting there a couple of years back. This came out of a lot negotiating with MA Fish and Wildlife and was well received by all parties involved including landowners. The closure lasts from March until July and was respected by all climbers I know because of what is at stake. Signs marking this closure are clearly posted both at the parking area and the trail head. Obviously, this meant nothing to Mr. Nichols. The WMCC is fed up. We are letting everyone we can know about the situation and are unwilling to give up. This bullshit has got to stop!! These are NOT his crags, he does NOT have the right to destroy others property, and he can NOT influence how we are supposed to climb at our local crags. We can be reached at mail@westernmacc.com for anyone willing to help or offer information/suggestions. Jeff Squire President Western Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition
dont you understand?
ward smith was there before any of us. he only had time to scramble to the cliffs and have a look around, but couldnt find him...so he took a picture of the car and called jeff, who then sent out emails to all of us...we then made the 35 minute drive to farley as quickly as possible and literally ran up the trail trying to find him. but he had already done the damage and got out of there.
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ikefromla
May 26, 2005, 2:23 AM
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as my posts in other threads might indicate, i'm all for climbing with clean protection when possible.
that being said, this guy sounds like a grade A fucktard.
-Ike
self-proclaimed sport climber
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piton
May 26, 2005, 2:39 AM
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way to go ken! pansy bolt clippers get a sack espicially you bobd oh yeah i asked my climbing partner you and he said you were wimpy.
don't worry ken i got your back. i love fighting.
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robsullivan
May 26, 2005, 3:04 AM
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Gentlemen:
Well put, Jeff.
I just posted some pictures of the chopped bolts I placed at Mormon Hollow. Once the photo editors OK them, you should be able to view them by accessing my profile. (I apolagize for not posting them in the thread, but this forum thing is new to me - I even use my real name.)
I think even Ken's apolagists will agree that the end result of his terrorism is appalling. If he truly believes he is preserving the rock, than how can he justify destroying it? He can't. Logic is . . . for the logical.
What to do? Contrary to some of the posts above, Western Mass climbers refuse to let Ken dictate our ethics. Help us fight back.
Join the WMCC.
This sounds crass, but send us money - Ken will end up in criminal and civil court and lawyers cost money.
Help us police our crags; look for a black Mid 90's Ford Ranger, aluminum cap, with CT combination plate number 53C-190 with an Eastford Garage sticker on the driver's side front fender.
Go to Connecticut and confront him at the crag every time you see him - make him explain his actions.
Petition the Mohonk Preserve to reinstitute their ban on him. Or work to expell him from your crag.
Talk to the impressionable young kids he climbs with - the only people who will - and explain to them how they are perpetuating his jihad.
E mail me with more suggestions.
Oh, although the suggested justification for his crusade is insulting, none of us bolted anything in Connecticut.
Rob Sullivan
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zozo
May 26, 2005, 3:08 AM
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Can someome give me the readers digest version about this guy. What makes him so much more evil than the average "boltchopper joe"?
Im certainely not doubting anyone Im just very curious.
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jakedatc
May 26, 2005, 3:14 AM
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fucking bastard.. last i heard of him he was "retired" and just wanted to be left alone.. i guess that was false.. anyone know if the address and phone# you get of Switchboard.com for New Haven is correct? mailings and phone calls? Place for the police to pick him up>?
hope they charge him one of these days.. suucks
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healyje
May 26, 2005, 3:34 AM
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No - none of the on-line phone listings are for Ken - please, let's not turn some poor innocent person's life into hell over this...
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static_endurance
May 26, 2005, 4:04 AM
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Alright, so i may not be anywhere near these climbing areas, and i don't have any problems with bolt chopping in my area. But do some of you seriously think taking action such as smashing the car and bolting his routes are going to make any difference at all? When you get down to it, if his car gets trashed at the crag, it's not him who suffers, but those people fighting him. It would look really good in a court when his destroyed car comes up, and those of you who are anti-ken have to explain why his car is smashed at your favourite crag, which i'm sure would look so good environmentally as well, what with shattered glass everywhere.
And as for bolting his routes? Cause that will make him stop. That definately won't piss him off further, and he definately won't keep chopping because you've destroyed his route. Nice terrorist tactics.
Now is as good a time as ever to grow up and lose that useless violent streak.
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micahmcguire
May 26, 2005, 4:40 AM
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What does this man do for a living? How does he support himself?
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golsen
May 26, 2005, 5:10 AM
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Could I make the suggestion that everyone chill.......Trashing his job, car person is a dirt bag thing to do. Do not lower yourselves. Try to find out why he came out of retirement and maybe that will help. Hell, we tried to talk to Sadam before we bombed Iraq, give the guy the same shred of a chance....Beating bolts and Glu -ins is a pretty dispicable act and does not help anyone.....Beating the guy up is also a bad thing to do. Think about this shit before someone does something they are sorry for....
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dingus
May 26, 2005, 5:12 AM
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Barbarosa!
BARBAROSA!
BARBAROSA!!!111
DMT
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nedsurf
May 26, 2005, 5:13 AM
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So thats where massholes comes from. :lol: just kidding, i know this is a serious thread and all. One thing I don't understand, is this guy chopping bolts on routes he got the FA as trad climb or is another situation? I might be able to form a better ethical opinion with this info. I love the dialectic on subculture diplomacy. Surfers also go on ad nauseum about their own ethics also. :wink:
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healyje
May 26, 2005, 5:24 AM
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In reply to: Surfers also go on ad nauseum about their own ethics also. :wink:
Yes, and fortunately waves don't get bolted or chopped in the process; unfortunately, however, surfing is afflicted by similar set of access issues and way more crowding, posing, posturing, slagging, and violence than climbing - so far anyway...
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healyje
May 26, 2005, 5:34 AM
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In reply to: Barbarosa! BARBAROSA! BARBAROSA!!! DMT
OMG people - look what you've done with all these extremophilic pronouncements...! Poor Dingus, we knew it was going to go nuclear...
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