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guangzhou
Jun 7, 2005, 7:50 AM
Post #1 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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bigjonnyc
Jun 7, 2005, 11:43 AM
Post #2 of 16
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Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 369
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Considering that the climbing mentioned in this TR takes only a few sentences to sum up, and the rest sounds like hell, it sounds like you had a pretty sh***y experience.
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mistertyler
Jun 7, 2005, 1:14 PM
Post #3 of 16
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Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 197
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bigjonnyc, note the following line in the first paragraph: "....sometimes, getting to the cliffs is much more difficult than the climbing itself."
I enjoyed the TR. Thanks!
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mrtristan
Jun 7, 2005, 1:27 PM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: Jun 21, 2002
Posts: 596
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I had the same experiences when I was in China! The crux is definitely getting there! Check out my old TR here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/65465
China has so much untapped climbing potential, it's rediculous. Great place!
-Tristan
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guangzhou
Jun 7, 2005, 10:53 PM
Post #5 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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Actually, I had a wonderful exprerience. First I discovered a climbing area with two routes.
On accident I climbed a route that had been bolted but never climbed before
Most importantly, I now know how t get there in about two hours. I have been climbing there three weekends a month on average and have manged to put up over 30 routes.
Thanks to the help of other climbers near here, the area now has 44 routes from 5.6 to 5.13.
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climbingfoo
Jun 7, 2005, 11:16 PM
Post #6 of 16
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 135
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Man, it's great to hear about climbing being developed in China! Are there gear shops being opened up too?
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mrtristan
Jun 7, 2005, 11:27 PM
Post #7 of 16
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Registered: Jun 21, 2002
Posts: 596
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In Beijing there are several gear stores. Not sure what it's like in other cities. All the gear is way expensive though because it's imported from the US and Europe. Shoes and packs seem to be the exception.
-Tristan
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guangzhou
Jun 8, 2005, 2:20 AM
Post #8 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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I haven't realy bought any gear since I arrived, eccept for bolts from the hardware store.
Climbing gear I normally prodeal, so I hve no idea whether the prices are reasonable or not.
Eman
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guangzhou
Jul 22, 2005, 1:01 AM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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50 routes some up to three pitches and more to come.
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far_east_climber
Jul 24, 2005, 7:59 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
Posts: 873
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http://www.cs.indiana.edu/...angshan_mountain.gif
Guangzhou, have you ever been to the Huangshan Mountains? I am definately intending to head up there soon and want to know if you have done anything up there. I think the area is comprised of 120 main peaks. All of it is granite slabs. It looks truly incredible in some areas. Please pm me or post up her if you have any info. on the area.
Matt
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cosmin
Jul 24, 2005, 9:53 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
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RE: HUANGSHAN
To my knowledge (after watching some similar photos a couple of months ago and after some inquiries) it seems that climbing in Huangshan is not allowed. I do not know the exact details of the red-tape but I know there is a fair amount of it.
Best,
Cosmin
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guangzhou
Jul 29, 2005, 1:55 AM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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Cosmin and others,
Actually, climbing in the area is allowed is you avoid climbing the main face of HuaSan.
The area now has a couple of routes, twoare roughly 11 pitches long. One was put up by a Japanese team and goes at 5.11+ A3. The author of the route thinks it will go completely free at 12+, but wasn't strong enough to free the pitch in the time he was there. I understand not being strong enough.
I don't know much baout the other routes, but I will shoot out a couple of emails for you. What I do know is that some spaniards have put up a few sport routes in the area.
Paul, a Chinese guide also recently put up another multipitch route in the area. I know he spent three days on it,(portaledges and all) but he too had to aid some sections down low on the route. He also thinks they will go free in the upper 12 to low 13 range. He is curreently in Sichuan putting up some other long routes and I can't contact him easily now.
Enjoy
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cosmin
Jul 29, 2005, 12:44 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
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Eman,
I think it might be a confusion... :?
There are two mountains with two similar names, both boast granite and they are both famous. :shock:
One of them is HUA SHAN and it is the highest of China’s five sacred mountains and 120 kilometers E of Xian.
The other one is HUANG SHAN (The Yellow Mt.) and considered the most beautiful mountain in China and it is in the south AnHui Province, 290 km. W of HangZhou.
Now looking better at ''far_east-climber's'' pictures they do look more like HUA SHAN (near Xian) which is the one Eman is refering to and he is correct about it (in one of the last issues of one of the Chinese climbing mags the Chinese route Eman mentioned is promissed to be presented with a TR)
However the same post spells the mt. HUANG SHAN (Anhui), thus my info, which is also correct. :lol:
Am trying to link below some pics from HUANG SAN (Anhui) thoug now am in a little 'swiss litown heading for a big rock in the Carpathians and only what i can find online i can post.
Happy climbing
Best,
Cosmin
http://www.math.psu.edu/...tures/HuangShan1.jpg
http://name.math.univ-rennes1.fr/...HuangShan/bajie.html
http://home.hccnet.nl/...af_Lotus_Peak01.html
http://www.math.psu.edu/...tures/HuangShan3.jpg
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guangzhou
Sep 25, 2005, 11:38 PM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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Both places look great.
Eman
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