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Conditions on the Petit?
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Partner angry


Jun 10, 2005, 5:32 PM
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Conditions on the Petit?
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I'm sure the rock is dry.

What about the trail, the gulleys, etc. Anyone been in the area this year?


zozo


Jun 10, 2005, 5:48 PM
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Im actually hiking in there tommorow to check out approaches and stuff like that. I'll let you know what I find.


Partner angry


Jun 10, 2005, 6:36 PM
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purrrrr-fect!!


zozo


Jun 11, 2005, 1:03 AM
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Make that next saturday. I can tell you what RMNP told me today. Snowing at 9,000 feet and they recommended "At least gaitors and waterproof boots, if not snowshoes."


Partner angry


Jun 12, 2005, 5:19 AM
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Well, I'm going there this week. Maybe I'll bring something more substantial than my Teva's.


mother_sheep


Jun 13, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Hey shizzie. . . Will you post up here the snow conditions when you get back? I'll be doing the South Face in 2 weeks. I was up the high country on Sat and Sunday and it looks like there is still a lot of snow. Not to mention yesterday we got pounded with heavy wind and snow out on Corona Pass. Fun times.


wannabe


Jun 13, 2005, 4:21 PM
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Tracy, I am sooo jealous, that looks like a super fun climb. I want to climb it some time this summer. So I expect a full trip report. :D Have fun.


madscientist


Jun 13, 2005, 5:01 PM
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I was up at Chaos on Saturday (6/11/05) and there is still a bit of snow. I would recommend snowshoes.


wannabe


Jun 13, 2005, 7:09 PM
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Hi Tracy, how are ya? :D Haven't heard from you in a while. I wanted to ask if you have climbed Petit Grepon before? If so, was it a pretty easy lead, moderate, just curios because I want to climb it.

Thanks,
Vince


mother_sheep


Jun 13, 2005, 7:12 PM
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In reply to:
Hi Tracy, how are ya? :D Haven't heard from you in a while. I wanted to ask if you have climbed Petit Grepon before? If so, was it a pretty easy lead, moderate, just curios because I want to climb it.

Thanks,
Vince

No Vince. Timstich and I climbed sharkstooth last summer and then rapped the South Face of the Petit. The route looks pretty straight forward but I guess I can't answer your question since I never climbed it. I'll let you know when I get back though.


zozo


Jun 13, 2005, 7:18 PM
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just curios because I want to climb it.

coclimber26 and I are going to do it soon. If your interested maybe a third isnt out of the question.


wannabe


Jun 13, 2005, 8:57 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
just curios because I want to climb it.

coclimber26 and I are going to do it soon. If your interested maybe a third isnt out of the question.
Yeah, I'm interested, but you'd better check with coclimber first. 8^)


Partner euroford


Jun 13, 2005, 9:08 PM
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i heard some post holin will be required to get to the base. we'll be up thataway in a couple weeks as well and plan to wear boots and gators.


flamer


Jun 14, 2005, 1:33 AM
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I've done the route. It's been a few years but here are some key points I remember.

The first 3 pitch's are broken and cruxy, with the crux 5.7 being near the top of the third pitch. It is entirely possible to traverse off the BIG ledge after the first 3 pitch's(without raps) if you need to bail9 I've actually traversed this while descending).

The "crux" 5.8 pitch is also fairly cruxy and protect's well with a blue TCU/green alien.

This is an Alpine route!! There is plenty of loose rock and some bad rock.
Some of the belay's are not great...they are good but you're not going to get 3 EQ'd peice's and I nice power point....well you m ight but it won't be easy and would be very time consuming.

The summit pitch is not hard but it is steep and a bit runout.

It's a fun route!! ENJOY!!

josh


Partner angry


Jun 14, 2005, 2:26 AM
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It was the second multi-pitch route I ever did. The first was Wiessners on Devils Tower. We did the 5.9 to the left of the main route.

So yeah, I had an epic. I'm still shocked at how close that cinder block sized rock came to my partner. Lesson learned, don't get off route when a total noob.


Partner angry


Jun 18, 2005, 11:25 PM
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OK, so I climbed the petit on Wednesday, I'm not going to post a big elaborate trip report. The conditions were very very good.

The chimneys had some ice and were a little wet, this did not affect the climbing as it is so easy.

The rap route is almost totally dry too.

The approach has some sections of snow, most notably, the steep section going up the waterfall. It's no big deal, I was only wearing tennis shoes and was able to kick good enough steps so as not to slip. It's been very warm, I bet that snowdrift is a lot smaller now.

And the marmots ate my shoes, so the walk back kind of sucked.


outdoorsie


Jun 19, 2005, 12:05 AM
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Thanks for the update! We were trying to decide on an alpine climb for next weekend (Petite, Sharkstooth, Spearhead...)

This is all good to hear.


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