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islandclimber
Jun 6, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2004
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Just looking for any beta, helpful hints, particularly useful gear etc. on this route at Squamish, I'm planning an ascent of it soon
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jimmyv
Jun 14, 2005, 10:21 PM
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i did it as first aid climb, hooking to rivet ladder. then long leaning dihedral to small rps, to bat hook and fixed copperhead (crux), similar thrid pitch with some fixed copperheads, then a tricky diagonal traverse that is rated a1!! and a crappy last pitch that you could probably free climb. top was closed due to birds or something. no weed on the top!!! have fun
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incogneato
Jun 14, 2005, 11:10 PM
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Double cams (emphasis on thin) to light blue Metolius, one set of RPs, hooks, nuts, and a couple of offset nuts if you have them.
Link the third and fourth pitches together with a sixty, this avoids a hanging belay a makes the climb more enjoyable and quicker.
Do the last pitch, in the sunshine it is mostly free.
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peas
Jun 17, 2005, 1:50 AM
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About the same advice as everyone else. bat hooks, the two types of metolius cliffhanger type hooks, cam hooks maybe?, lots of small cams, DMM peanuts work well on the traverse pitch. Maybe carry some mid sized heads in case any have come out. I used a pecker on top of a dead head as well. I've done the A1 traverse pitch 2 times. The first time I was really scared. The 2nd time didn't seem so bad. The last pitch isn't that great, but it is neat to get to the roof and to fully finish the route. If you're doing it at this time of year, you should have no problem with daylight. The first time I got on it, I walked past the start in the fog. The bolt ladder starts a fair way up the wall.
oh yeah, other than the pecker in the dead head, I've never used a hammer on Cannabis, so it's pretty easy to do it clean.
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salbrecher
Jun 17, 2005, 6:39 AM
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I did it last december and never used any bathooks, i just missed the holes. I only had doubles on one or two of the cams and a blu TCU would be a good one to have doubles of. A beak for deadheads and camhooks. Offset nuts were nice. It was rainy and dark and my headlamp died when i did the last pitch but it seemed pretty shitty and dirty.
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yetanotherdave
Dec 30, 2005, 9:57 PM
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In reply to: Link the third and fourth pitches together with a sixty, this avoids a hanging belay a makes the climb more enjoyable and quicker.
if 3&4 link with a 60, will 1&2 link as well? they look shorter in the sketch in the new McLean guide...
I'll be solo, so comfy belays are less an issue than speed :)
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skinner
Dec 30, 2005, 11:47 PM
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Are you soloing it by choice? or lack of partner?
Have a date in mind yet?
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yetanotherdave
Dec 31, 2005, 3:19 AM
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mostly soloing due to lack of a regular aid partner, but it is nice to be able to just head out at the last minute and climb...
No date picked, except that i'd like to do it in the next month or so. The next sunny weekend probably. Accuweather claims that'll be the 13th/14th - wanna go climbing?
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skinner
Dec 31, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Dang, that'd be cutting it a little tight seeing as I am off to Kansas for 10 days, leaving on the 16th. (I know.. a climber in Kansas Yikes!!!)
If for some reason like "weather" prevents you from meeting your target date.. I will be back on the 26th - 28th and have always had my sights on Cannabis, just never worked out for one reason or an other.
My butt should be all better by then too, I had a hook pop off on me today and went for a nice bounce down a cheese-grater limestone slab :oops:
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incogneato
Jan 1, 2006, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Link the third and fourth pitches together with a sixty, this avoids a hanging belay a makes the climb more enjoyable and quicker. if 3&4 link with a 60, will 1&2 link as well? they look shorter in the sketch in the new McLean guide... I'll be solo, so comfy belays are less an issue than speed :)
hmm.. not quite sure if the 1st and 2nd will link with a sixty. rope drag would be horrendous if linked but solo this wouldn't obviously matter.
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skinner
Jan 1, 2006, 12:17 AM
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In reply to: when its nice...
ok .. so it somewhere near the coast..
C'mon tell us what you're up to :)
You know for sure that I'm not going to run out in the rain to scoop your project ! Now if it would freeze and turn to ice, that'd be a different story :twisted:
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tattooed_climber
Jan 2, 2006, 4:53 AM
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just some solo FA aidin....on actuall "aid" route (known of it for about 5 years)...more as practice than for the FA factor....no longer than 30-40m....i'll be boltin the anchors next weekend.....i have a feeling it may be all peckers, kb and rivets (which i don't have very much of as of this point, so i'll rap it and check it out soon enough)....but my A5 testicals are still growing, so i may bolt it on TR solo
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GatineauClimber
Jul 22, 2010, 3:26 AM
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How is the ledge on top of Cannabis Wall for a bivy? Was thinking about doing Cannabis Wall and then doing Strange Brew the next day.
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yetanotherdave
Jul 22, 2010, 1:48 PM
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probably doable, but not comfy for two. There's a little tree island at the top of 4 that would be a marginal bivi for 1, so you could each have a kinda-crappy ledge...
When are you planning to get on it?
If you move fast you one of you could have the Bird's single ledge - a better sleep and a bit of history all in one!
http://cgi.ebay.ca/...06a992#ht_500wt_1154
(This post was edited by yetanotherdave on Jul 22, 2010, 1:49 PM)
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GatineauClimber
Jul 22, 2010, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: When are you planning to get on it?
Two friends and I will be in Squamish for the month of August and we're thinking of doing it during the 2nd or 3rd week. We were hoping to do a wall with a ledge for a party of three to bivy on... Have any suggestions?
A Bridwell ledge would be sweet! But we might just have to improvise portaledges...
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yetanotherdave
Jul 23, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2005
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how hard a route are you interested in?
You could do Humpty Dumpty or Ten Years After - fix one day and then push for green acres ledge the next. Day 3 top out via Lost at Sea.
edit: I should probably mention that Lost at Sea is given 5.9 A3+, but has not seen a second ascent. Also Matt climbs really hard, so the 5.9 may be stiff :)
I'd recommend picking up the Maddaloni walls guide - it's cheap and comes in PDF so you can print multiple copies in case you drop one :)
http://mattmaddaloni.com/...%20Squamish%20BW.htm
(This post was edited by yetanotherdave on Jul 23, 2010, 1:58 PM)
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GatineauClimber
Jul 25, 2010, 4:11 PM
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This will be our first wall route, so we were thinking something easier, which is why Cannabis Wall seems like a good option.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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milesenoell
Jul 25, 2010, 5:16 PM
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yetanotherdave wrote: how hard a route are you interested in? You could do Humpty Dumpty or Ten Years After - fix one day and then push for green acres ledge the next. Day 3 top out via Lost at Sea. edit: I should probably mention that Lost at Sea is given 5.9 A3+, but has not seen a second ascent. Also Matt climbs really hard, so the 5.9 may be stiff :) I'd recommend picking up the Maddaloni walls guide - it's cheap and comes in PDF so you can print multiple copies in case you drop one :) http://mattmaddaloni.com/...%20Squamish%20BW.htm
Maddaloni, of anti-cam fame.
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d.vonk
Jul 27, 2010, 1:37 AM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2007
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a good starter route is wrist twister c2+ i believe it was 3 pitches. fun, bolted belays good introductory aid route.
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yetanotherdave
Jul 27, 2010, 11:23 PM
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You should probably know that both cannabis and wrist twister have fewer copperheads now than described in the guidebook - take a hammer and a few small beaks at least. Last time up both routes I placed a few #1 peckers and no new heads, but aid routes change every ascent - especially in squish where there's very little aid climbing these days. Given the option, placing beaks is better than heads - more certain placements IMHO and eventually you can hand-place them in scars rather than hammer.
WT can be done with nothing bigger than a red camalot - the guide calls for bigger but you can hook past the wide section low down and save lugging big cams up the gully.
If you're around for a while, I'd recommend doing WT before cannabis, to get a feel for thin aiding in squamish. Start early to beat the heat, and take your free shoes - and you can do a few easy free routes along the descent.
(This post was edited by yetanotherdave on Jul 27, 2010, 11:36 PM)
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snoboy
Jul 29, 2010, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2004
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Bring a couple green alien size if I remember right, second pitch eats them up.
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