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noman668
Jun 24, 2005, 2:16 AM
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I've bouldered at Stoney for a couple years but have yet to do anything on a rope there...In my recollection the anchors at the top of Beethoven's are a boulder and a small tree, correct? What's the rough minimum I need in length to wrap 'em and get it over the lip? (Or correct me if these are not the anchors folks are using these days...It's been at least two years since I've stood up there...)
Appreciate the help!
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Jun 24, 2005, 2:58 AM
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i used the big boulder on top. id bring at least 4-5 slings and and bunch of biners to get it safe. but ya its a solid anchor at the top. just attach a few slings together and wrap around the bottom of the boulder, then put the rope through and your set. some fun climbs on beethovens. have fun.
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thrmaln
Jun 24, 2005, 3:09 AM
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Hello Noman,
the anchor requirements are different depending on which area of bethovens you want to climb. looking at the wall from left to right the first few climbs are in the 5.10 & 5.11 range as you get the large crack it becomes much easier in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. For the climbs on the left you sling the large boulder on top which is about 5' back from the edge. 3 20' slings work fine. There is a tree (more like a bush) about 20' back, but that boulder has been there for ages and it is bomber. You can just run all your redundant slings around it. Setting up the climbs on the right is a bit trickier. The climbs on the right require you to sling a boulder which is about 15'-20' back. If you use a 50' piece of webbing and tie it into a sling you will fall about 3' feet short of getting your carabiners over the edge. You will need about 60' if you use slings alone. However, I use 3 20' slings and use one on the boulder on the left and 2 on the boulder 20' back. I then use static line (50' length but I do not need it all) to connect it all up. My first connection runs from the boulder on the left, over the edge to a power point, then to the first sling on the rear boulder I use a Clove hitch to equalize it, then I back it up with a connection to the second sling on the rear boulder. On the boulder with 2 slings have them a few feet different in length so when you backup the clove hitch everything is tight. If I had cams or nuts I would use them, but I only have webbing and static line.
If your interested, a group of us climb every Tuesday after work at stoney. Your welcome to tag along.
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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thrmaln
Jun 24, 2005, 3:11 AM
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Hello Noman,
the anchor requirements are different depending on which area of bethovens you want to climb. looking at the wall from left to right the first few climbs are in the 5.10 & 5.11 range as you get the large crack it becomes much easier in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. For the climbs on the left you sling the large boulder on top which is about 5' back from the edge. 3 20' slings work fine. There is a tree (more like a bush) about 20' back, but that boulder has been there for ages and it is bomber. You can just run all your redundant slings around it. Setting up the climbs on the right is a bit trickier. The climbs on the right require you to sling a boulder which is about 15'-20' back. If you use a 50' piece of webbing and tie it into a sling you will fall about 3' feet short of getting your carabiners over the edge. You will need about 60' if you use slings alone. However, I use 3 20' slings and use one on the boulder on the left and 2 on the boulder 20' back. I then use static line (50' length but I do not need it all) to connect it all up. My first connection runs from the boulder on the left, over the edge to a power point, then to the first sling on the rear boulder I use a Clove hitch to equalize it, then I back it up with a connection to the second sling on the rear boulder. On the boulder with 2 slings have them a few feet different in length so when you backup the clove hitch everything is tight. If I had cams or nuts I would use them, but I only have webbing and static line.
If your interested, a group of us climb every Tuesday after work at stoney. Your welcome to tag along.
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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noman668
Jun 24, 2005, 3:30 AM
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Hey, thanks folks...this is what I was looking for.
Thanks for the invite on Tues. nights...I'm trying to find some new partners right now, but weekday afternoons/evenings don't work. Any other time/day I'm good to go.
Thanks again
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thrmaln
Jun 24, 2005, 5:04 AM
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Hey Noman,
Too bad Tuesdays don't work for you, we really have a good time. 6 of the people are girls and 5 are single! Does that tempt you any! LOL
If you want to get out this weekend let me know. We are most likely going to Point Dume on Sunday. I have never climbed there myself and hear it is a fun atmosphere, but the climbs are easy and the rock is kinda chossy. We were going to go to Williamson, but not everybody can start at the same time and pt dume is drive up climbing.
We also climb as a group at boulderdash (www.boulderdashclimbing.com) every Friday night and then get together for drinks and food afterward. Were a pretty active group, but most are gym rats (not much exposure outside) that I am trying to convert to outdoor climbers. However 4 or 5 of us do lead climb sport routes outside up to mid 5.10's
Do you lead climb sport routes? If so how high are you comfortable with?
Best regards,
Marc Webster
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noman668
Jun 24, 2005, 5:49 AM
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Thanks again for the invite...
What time are you going to point dume? - I haven't been there either, seen it though...looks fun enough. I might be up for it- let me know about the time...I've been flying solo for a while now (bouldering) but want to get out on a rope more- I've got gear for toproping but have only clipped a few bolts indoors and have no trad experience (want to learn both though). As far as point dume, I hear it's mostly 5.9 and under- no problem for me in the past. I've bouldered up to V4/5 but just don't have a whole lot of experience with routes.
I was planning on doing Stoney tomorrow morning and Horse Flats this weekend...If you or any friends are interested in either one I'm on summer vacation (the bliss of teaching!) and going all the time (usually early morning):
PM if interested
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cruzinsouthoc
Jun 24, 2005, 6:49 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2001
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If you walk to the next slot to Mozart's wall...there are bolts to easily setup toprope from.... and at the end there are more bolts to TR the 10a's from...if you do end up climbing those 10's...lemme know if you really believe they're both 10a's...cuz I don't :)
How's the climbing at Point Dume??? My friend told me about that place and the pictures I've seen look awesome. I was thinking about russling up a few people to check that place out on Sunday morning...supposed to be a GORGEOUS day out there this weekend.
Maybe I'll see you guys there
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pylonhead
Jun 24, 2005, 9:33 AM
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In reply to: if you do end up climbing those 10's...lemme know if you really believe they're both 10a's...cuz I don't :) nd.
Do you believe they're harder or easier?
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cruzinsouthoc
Jun 24, 2005, 3:06 PM
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I forget which one, but I think the one on the left is harder...it gets way too void of holds at the top for a 10a...the one on the right of the tree I think is probably more of a 10a.
It may also be because I'm only 5'6"...but still, 10a's aren't usually that tough.
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pylonhead
Jun 24, 2005, 10:16 PM
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My friend and I setup a toprope and started working the routes at Mozarts.
We started on the 5.8, and I got about 1/2 way up, and I started moving pretty slowly. My belayer started giving me some crap about how it was a 5.8, and how I was such a gym rat (not true, I climb outdoors a good bit), blah blah blah.
I finished it up and we switched places. He gets on the climb, and suddenly he was the one calling down, "crap, this doesn't feel 5.8 to me."
We were both feeling a little bit sheepish at that point, but we kept climbing, doing all the routes on the wall. As we started getting use to the style of the climbing, we started to feel a lot more solid. By the end of the day I was feeling great on the 10a's, while at the beginning I felt dicey on the 5.8.
It was just a bit of a mind **** for us to go from juggy overhanging climbs like malibu to the delicate balance moves required by slab climbing. I think the 10a climbs are fairly graded, but I will admit to being 6' tall and having a decent wingspan.
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jt512
Jun 24, 2005, 11:09 PM
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In reply to: If you walk to the next slot to Mozart's wall...there are bolts to easily setup toprope from.... and at the end there are more bolts to TR the 10a's from...if you do end up climbing those 10's...lemme know if you really believe they're both 10a's...cuz I don't :)
They're both 10a's. And mantel straight up to top out. No traversing.
-Jay
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bodyboarder
Jun 25, 2005, 3:45 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2005
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I thought the route on the right of the tree (at motzart) was a 5.9....
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