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rockjock04
Jul 15, 2002, 8:20 PM
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You all know I live in ohio. not much climbing here. So I am going to a gym this week and I have a bug to lead climb. I have never lead climbed before, but I have probably read all the literature ever posted about it on this website and in books. They require a test to be able to lead in their gym which I think I can pass. And since I dont want to pay them 50 dollars for them to tell me 99 % of what I already know, Im going to take this test. With this knowledge I have aquired from books and this site, I have learned to not back or Z-clip, keep the spine of the biner that is hanging on the quickdraw facing my next bolt. and to stay relaxed on a fall. Is there any thing I am missing? Also do I just climb to the top and when Im done get lowered by my belayer and untie then pull the rope back through or is there some other way? Thanks alot in advance.
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blindslap
Jul 15, 2002, 9:35 PM
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I'm pretty sure you got everything. But have you ever clipped before? If not, just tie something off in your house and clip a quickdraw to it then practice your clipping. Those gym people look for that and also being able to clip quickly really saves strength for the rest of the climb. Also does you belayer know what he's doing?
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killclimbz
Jul 15, 2002, 9:36 PM
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Don't back clip. I'm not sure if I can explain this or not. Basically the rope should come from under you clipping biner then to your harness. If you have it reversed it's possible in a fall for the rope to unclip itself. This can be a bummer. I would say paying the $50 is not a bad idea. You can read about everything, but putting it to practice the first time is hard. A trained eye will know immediately when you are making mistakes and can tell you exactly what it is you need to do to correct it.
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wyoclimber
Jul 15, 2002, 9:45 PM
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hey,
if you dont want to shell out the bucks, i would recommend hooking up with some one that has led for a while to practice and work through the details. have the leader and the belayer explain what they are doing and why as they do it.
good luck!
xb
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mikedano
Jul 15, 2002, 9:49 PM
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Ya, I also paid the $50 to learn to lead in the gym, and it has served me well ever since.
For instance, in your post you didn't mention anything about the rope going behind the leg (although you may know about it) which in my opinion is probably the most important part of leading. What I mean is keeping the rope in front of you, instead of around behind your leg, thus flipping you upside down if you were to fall.
There's a lot to leading and lead belaying, and even if you know the basics a class may show you something not necessary but very useful (such as giving the lead climber a spot before he/she clips the first bolt).
I would recommend the class.
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climbsomething
Jul 15, 2002, 9:53 PM
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wyoclimber makes a good point. it can't hurt to get some practice in, just to feel the weight of the rope and the anxiety of being on the sharp end. these things can't be replicated in any books or web sites. and the less nervous you are, the better you will perform on your exam!
but you sound pretty confident, so good luck and let us know how you do! if you're gonna "wing" a lead you may as well do it inside in a more controlled environment. but as I just said... you sound like you feel you're ready. stay calm, stay focused, good luck, and welcome to the wonderful world of leading!
~Hillary
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crackaddict
Jul 15, 2002, 10:00 PM
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Sounds like you got it down but. Practice cliping and, also find someone that took the class to show you what they were taught if you dont want to spend the coin.
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blindslap
Jul 15, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Top rope a sport climb and carry a lead rope up with you and do everything like you were leading, except if you fall your still of toprope. Doing this really helps to fine tune your leading capability's before actually geting on the sharp end.
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elvislegs
Jul 15, 2002, 10:22 PM
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Killclimbz, I don't know if I can explain this or not but... He said he already knew about backclipping, does anybody even read before they post or do we all assume that everything WE have to say is original knowledge?
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rockjock04
Jul 16, 2002, 3:47 PM
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Thanks all for the support. I plan to leave in a couple of hours. I have everything down, (including rope in front or between legs ). Now before I leave I must practice clipping in the next fifteen minutes. Ill let you know how I do.
And I sure hope that my ER doc didn't wing is med school. Remember: half of the doctors out there graduated in the bottom half of their college class...
LETS DO IT!
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mikedano
Jul 16, 2002, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2001
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Rock on, dude! And if you fall, make sure it's BIG.
Let us know if you passed (if not, don't feel bad. A friend of mine who had been climbing for years failed the gym's test--he didn't know about all their rules.)
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climbsomething
Jul 16, 2002, 4:07 PM
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Quote:Remember: half of the doctors out there graduated in the bottom half of their college class...
Climb on, bro!
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cathal
Jul 16, 2002, 4:19 PM
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Definately practice clipping into quikdraws with one hand. Other than that you seem to have everything.
Make sure you have someone deceit to belay you, i.e. make sure they'll give you the correct amount of slack when you call for it.
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gunkjunkie
Jul 17, 2002, 2:21 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2001
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Hi -
I think you may want to shell out the $50 for the class. There's not much point in pushing it and possibly injuring yourself to save $50. It is possible to get hurt - pretty badly leading inside- I was leading in the gym & not thinking stepped behind the rope as I was moving up and fell - I flipped over and hit the wall with my shoulder and then my head - I was lucky that I hit an area w/o holds and that I hit with my shoulder first. As it was I ended up with a concussion and out of work for a couple of days.
Just my 2 cents worth
deirdre
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