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sanven4
Jul 26, 2005, 3:35 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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Good evening to all.
Just a quick question for the more experienced climbers. Do you guys suggest I use 6mm or 7mm perlon cord for my rappelling auto block?
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vegastradguy
Jul 26, 2005, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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i suggest just using a nylon (not spectra/dyneema) sling. faster and one less thing to carry.
petzl makes some nifty black ones that do this duty well, and are also perhaps the burliest slings i've ever used...i've had them for over three years, carry them on every climb, and they have yet to even fray a tiny bit.
if you must use perlon, 6mm should do the trick. 7mm is probably a bit bulky for that particular application.
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mrsuicide
Jul 26, 2005, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2004
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for an autoblock i just use a sling. works great, multipurpose.
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sanven4
Jul 26, 2005, 3:49 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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Vegastradguy,
Thanks for the input and quick response. I'll pick up a 4 1/2 foot section of 6mm cord tommorow (i'm going to stick with that for now since I am fairly new to climbing and that was what my climbing guide suggested I use).
I do have one more question for you however. If I did choose to go with a 7mm would it be a safety hazard?
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jlight
Jul 26, 2005, 4:06 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2003
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It wouldn't be a safety hazard to use 7 mil. It might be annoying to carry for some people...but really, we're talking a millimeter here. I've used both, and never really noticed a difference.
J
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horseonwheels
Jul 26, 2005, 4:07 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2005
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Definately go with the 6mm. While there isn't really a safety concern using the 7mm (the amount of force it takes slow your rap with cord is nothing compared to body weight), 6mm is so much easier to deal with. It's less bulky and ties knots more easily. The general rule is to use a cord that is at least 3mm smaller than your lead line.
As a side note - I've practiced ascending a line with prusiks of both 6mm and 7mm perlon. While they both worked, I could feel a little bit more slip with the 7mm on my 10.5mm line.
I've also used a sling as a rap backup, and while vegastradguy makes a good point about its multi-functionality, I still prefer using cord. It just seems to work more smoothly for me.
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moose_droppings
Jul 26, 2005, 4:16 AM
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If 7mm slips a little, just put 1 or 2 more wraps on it.
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moose_droppings
Jul 26, 2005, 4:28 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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If 7mm slips a little, just put 1 or 2 more wraps on it
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clayman
Jul 26, 2005, 5:06 AM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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can you still use a runner for an autoblock with a single line rappel and say 7mil pull line?
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climbinginchico
Jul 26, 2005, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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The runner is a nicer option.
It's more versatile, and can be used to Klemheist if needed. A much better knot than the prusik, because you get a handle to slide the knot up on.
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