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angry
Aug 1, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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And kill yourselves!!
Just kidding, you can live, just please show a little respect. Understand that you are potentially spoiling an onsight, or at least taking a little away from those who also want to climb it. I'm not going to rant about chalk use in general (yes it bothers me, but it's not as intrusive), but the intentional marking of climbs.
I especially don't understand why you need ticks on a crack, if you can't figure out where to jam (or place gear for the gear tic markers), you probably need a lot more miles on easier cracks. It'll help you learn the nuances of crack climbing in addition to increasing your ability to read a crack, the end result will be outgrowing the need for the tick marks.
I am convinced that everyone who uses tick marks also carries a toothbrush on their bag. If you absolutely MUST use tic-marks, please be respectful and clean the marks when you leave. It's the right thing to do.
And now a funny story. I climbed a fairly well known offwidth in Vedauwoo yesterday. It's 10d or 11a, depending on what guidebook you have. Anyway the beta is three stacks in a row then climb the deep fist crack in a particularly grueling fashion to the top. Every crystal on the face was ticked up. I can't imagine what use that had, considering this route had a no hands rest any time you wanted it, I even switched my rack side in the middle of the crux (gotta love the easy offwidths). I'd guess that to climb these crystals would increase the route's difficulty from 10d to 12+ or more. The chalk spoke silently of what must have been a very loud ass-kicking. This goes back to learning how to climb and read cracks like I mentioned earlier.
Just be respectful, pick up your physical litter, bury your shit, and scrub off your visual litter.
Thanks.
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dirtineye
Aug 1, 2005, 6:53 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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I'll bet that it was a sport climber or boulderer taking up trad who ticked the crystals, hahahahaha!
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overlord
Aug 1, 2005, 7:16 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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im a sport climber and i HATE tickmarks.
some ppl just feel the need to mark every hold on a route. even a jug that you can see from the ground (not to mention on the route).
i know a person who feels the need to add tick marks even to routes in a gym. may because he cant see the sweetspot on a hold form the wall??
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dirtineye
Aug 1, 2005, 7:55 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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In reply to: im a sport climber and i HATE tickmarks. some ppl just feel the need to mark every hold on a route. even a jug that you can see from the ground (not to mention on the route). i know a person who feels the need to add tick marks even to routes in a gym. may because he cant see the sweetspot on a hold form the wall??
My point was that the tick marker probably didn't know how to jam a crack, so he took the much harder way of face climbing. IT's usually dedicated bouldlerers and sportos who don't ever learn to jam.
Good question on the gym tic-marks, what are they thinking?
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dynosore
Aug 1, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768
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I don't understand the appeal of tick marks at all. Part of the fun is figuring out where the next hold/sequence is. Tick marks are aid for sure 8^)
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climboard
Aug 1, 2005, 9:13 PM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
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In reply to: And now a funny story. I climbed a fairly well known offwidth in Vedauwoo yesterday. It's 10d or 11a, depending on what guidebook you have. Anyway the beta is three stacks in a row then climb the deep fist crack in a particularly grueling fashion to the top. Every crystal on the face was ticked up. I can't imagine what use that had, considering this route had a no hands rest any time you wanted it, I even switched my rack side in the middle of the crux (gotta love the easy offwidths). I'd guess that to climb these crystals would increase the route's difficulty from 10d to 12+ or more. The chalk spoke silently of what must have been a very loud ass-kicking. This goes back to learning how to climb and read cracks like I mentioned earlier. Thanks.
S2+
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