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Best Bouldering Shoe
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cgranite


Oct 20, 2003, 12:33 AM
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Best Bouldering Shoe
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What is your favorite shoe for bouldering that you have ever used.
And WHY?


bouldersdothebodygood


Oct 20, 2003, 1:04 AM
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i like the 5.10 mocisums but they sometimes lose it on heel hooks. i now use the la sportiva katanas. i love them there rubber isn't quite as sticky as the c 4 but is is still very nice stuff it also lasts longer i really recommend them.


rockclimbr


Oct 20, 2003, 1:30 AM
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I have owned only two pairs of shoes, Boreal Zens, and MadRock Hooker Zips. I like the hookers hands down, they rock. The heel is a little bigon me though, and slips when heel hooking. But the rest of the shoe kicks the Zens butt, in my opinion.


joeschmoe


Oct 20, 2003, 2:37 AM
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evolve kaos ease of slipper with even easier entry. good all-around shoe.


alpinerock


Oct 20, 2003, 2:39 AM
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the la sportiva tessatoria(however u spell it) i feel like i can edge on the width of a dime, although they are uncomfortable...they are precise enough to make up for it


Partner phaedrus


Oct 20, 2003, 3:30 AM
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Mad Rock Sharks. For bouldering, I'm all about them... they kick ass.


xxboulderinxx


Oct 21, 2003, 3:18 AM
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My favorite bouldering shoe has to be the Red Chile Dos Equios. The are awesome.....especially if you tear off the rubber and throw some C4 on em :D


dlintz


Oct 21, 2003, 3:43 AM
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Ditto on the Kaos. Great fit especially the heel (for me).


da5id


Oct 21, 2003, 5:19 AM
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i like the red chili phantoms. fit my feet like extra small, sticky gloves!
plus they heel hook well, at least a lot better than my la sportiva cliffs did...


theirishspy


Aug 16, 2005, 3:47 AM
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I have personally tried every single shoe out there (one of the benefits of working for REI) and my absolute favorite shoe is the 5.10 dragon. Unfortunately, this model has been discontinued, but the sensitivity and power is unsurpassed by any other shoe around. For bouldering, this shoe provides every option for every scenario in which you place it, oh, and it basically kicks ass.


hibby11


Aug 16, 2005, 3:51 AM
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My vote is for the galileo, even tho i've only had them for about 2-3 months i'm yet to have them slip off a hold on me. Real comfortable fit with amazing touch........great shoe.


climbsomething


Aug 16, 2005, 4:02 AM
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1) A big curb-stomp to thread resurrectors.

2)
In reply to:
i like the 5.10 mocisums...
I'd mock you some. Unfortunately, your post is 2 years old, and therefore the statute of limitations has expired.


htotsu


Aug 16, 2005, 5:06 AM
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In reply to:
I have personally tried every single shoe out there (one of the benefits of working for REI) and my absolute favorite shoe is the 5.10 dragon. Unfortunately, this model has been discontinued, but the sensitivity and power is unsurpassed by any other shoe around. For bouldering, this shoe provides every option for every scenario in which you place it, oh, and it basically kicks ass.

So... what is your SECOND favorite shoe? :wink: Seriously, since the first one no longer exists, and you have access to just about errything, I'm curious as to what you think comes the closest to the dearly departed 5.10 dragon.


rainontin


Aug 16, 2005, 6:34 AM
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V10s are Dragons minus the velcro.


atarinaper


Aug 16, 2005, 6:50 AM
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In reply to:
My vote is for the galileo, even tho i've only had them for about 2-3 months i'm yet to have them slip off a hold on me. Real comfortable fit with amazing touch........great shoe.

same here, i just got these last saturday, but they are amazing... even though they are still breaking in 8^) but i can take it :)


theirishspy


Aug 16, 2005, 3:49 PM
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Some online gear outfitters do still have dragons in stock at limited sizes (but at a good price). As to answer your question though, the 5.10 V10's are a similar shoe, but my second favorite have to be the Evolv Predators. They are a similar style to the dragons, but basically different rubber.


saskclimber


Aug 16, 2005, 4:47 PM
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LS Venoms! Coolest looking shoe on the market 8^).


they fit good too...


flaco_loco


Aug 16, 2005, 5:10 PM
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The Mad Rock mugens. They have the best heel and toe. That heel can grip anything and that toe can stick the skinniest ledges.


rastafari


Aug 16, 2005, 5:20 PM
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Personally, I like Lasportiva Cobra's. They're cheap, comfortable, good fit and great rubber. I change shoes every 3 months and I don't wanna pay 120 $ for a pair of V10's, cause they last just as long as Cobra's. But I like Anasazi Velcro too, and Lasport's Venom and Testarossa. And red Chili's Voodoo are good to.


bboysmeth


Aug 16, 2005, 6:49 PM
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Red Chilli's voodoos get my vote. great edges, great rubber, heels are good, a nice aggressive shoe. also you can lace them up or wear them as a slipper because of the elastic tongue . TIP: Get the shoes ultra tight one and a half size smaller than your normal shoe size, they'll stretch out within a couple sessions.


theirishspy


Aug 17, 2005, 5:26 AM
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so based on this thread we can come to the conclusion that you really have to decide for yourself which shoe is the best. It all depends on the person, the type of climbing you do, and the realization that the people out there designing and manufacturing the shoes do this for a living, so they design them to make the owners happy. I suppose we can conclude that you just have to find a pair of shoes that works for you, and this shouldn't be too hard.


saskclimber


Aug 17, 2005, 5:27 AM
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Ahmen to that.


wish_i_was_climbing


Aug 18, 2005, 2:18 PM
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By far the Mad Rock Mugens are my favorite shoe, good feel, good rubber, good shape, great heel cup, I can also toe into almost anything(great for overhangs and roof)


sierrabc


Aug 18, 2005, 3:08 PM
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This post is old, but in case you still are wondering or care, I love my Madrock Locos. They excel on overhanging things, but still rock.
Sierra 8^)


snodawg


Aug 18, 2005, 3:26 PM
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I also have to vote on the Madrock Mugens. I have had mine for a couple years now and I never want to loose them.

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