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pushsendnorcal
Aug 28, 2005, 4:03 PM
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Wondering if anyone has the results so far, (today being finals) they have yet to post any results except for the first place winners so far being...
1. Mina Markovic (87) - Slovenia
1. Caroline Januel (88) - France
1. Charlotte Durif (90) - France
1. Daniel Winkler (86) - Switzerland
1. Magnus Midtbö (88) - Norway
1. David Lama (90) - Austria
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gblauer
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Aug 28, 2005, 4:32 PM
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US top finishers
Female Junior Finals
Rude 6th place
Male Junior
Engberg 7th place
Male A
Haack 8th place
Female B
Claasen 4th place
Main 6th place
Bragdon 8th place
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macherry
Aug 29, 2005, 1:38 AM
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macherry moved this thread from General to Competition Climbing.
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tyson16v
Sep 1, 2005, 3:42 PM
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i just returned from this event. it was awesome and the US team had a great showing. we put 6 in the top 8. the most the US has put in finals was 2. it was truly an amazing performance. as one of the coaches i have to express my gratitude to USACLIMBING and all parents involved. the suppport of the US team was amazing. i have a real good feeling about the future of the US juniors. as opposed to years past, the team looked like a real cohesive unit. i hope this continues.
i have pictures and stories that i will post later.
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mistymountainhop
Sep 1, 2005, 3:50 PM
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Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC?
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edge
Sep 1, 2005, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC?
I would hardly call that getting spanked. Congrats to the team and all who participated! Many thanks to you and all of the coaches, Tyson.
With odd exception, the Americans still have a very long way to go to compete with the Juniors from other countries. Most European nations sponsor a National team with full time coaches, training centers, and full sponsorships. They schedule their Nationals at a time that allows their chosen athlete representatives to complete a full training cycle scheduled to peak at Worlds.
The US Nationals are always in early July, for a variety of reasons, meaning that US athletes need to stay switched on for an additional month. They must also pay for all of their own expenses to travel through all of the Nationals qualifying, then cross country to Nationals, and if selected to the US Team, they pay the lion's share to travel, eat, and sleep in a foreign country. This puts us at a distinct disadvantage.
USA Climbing is working on rectifying all of this, but it won't come quickly. Like anything, money is the key, and corporate sponsorships are few and far between; props to companies who do sponsor USA Climbing, such as the North Face, Sterling Rope, Eldorado, Franklin, et al.
Again, congratulations to the USA Climbing National Team members for a job well done. I look forward to seeing Tyson's pics.
Loran Smith
USA Climbing National Level Judge
Regional Coordinator, New England North
Member, USA Climbing Judging Committee
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madriver
Sep 1, 2005, 4:18 PM
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In reply to: How did these individuals qualify for the YWC?
By working their respective arses off. The US Team has done better each of the last two years at Worlds. This year was outstanding. Congrats to all who were able to make it.
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olderic
Sep 1, 2005, 5:24 PM
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I have to second Loran's sentiments. Given that the "Team" part of the US Team doesn't really mean much in terms of real support I think our kids did quite well and showed a lot of depth. It appears that the dominance by the countries that have traditionally done well (France, Russia) may be lessening. In the male junior division (which I happen to watch more closely then the others - :D ) I noticed that the 8 finalists wre from 8 different counties.
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bustloose
Sep 1, 2005, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC?
oh hello, are you new to the sport?? dude, the europeans have been better than the north americans for decades. the US simply does NOT have the best in the world when it comes to climbing (and many other sports, but now is really not the place for that), deal with it.
congrats to all the juniors who competed at this years YWC!!
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tyson16v
Sep 1, 2005, 7:05 PM
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In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC?
each categorie had around 50 competitors. there are six categories.
junior (18-19), youth A (16-17), and youth B (14-15).
we took 29 competitors for difficulty. 25 of which made it to semis (top 26),
and 6 of which made it to finals. this is in the WORLD. that is hardly getting spanked. we had 3 girls in the youth B final. no other country except france and austria had more than 1 in a final per categorie. we had more than anyone in finals except for france who had 9.
the US team did awesome. it is finally coming together for us. the coaches and organization are finally pulling together and making something happen. yes we still have a long way to go but, it is a huge improvement over years past.
and to answer your other question. to qualify for the US national team you must go through a series of USAC sanctioned comps through out the spring and then a regional, and then qualify for a divisional, then the national.
these kids bust their asses, and work really hard. we should all be proud of the achievements of all these young climbers.
thanks for all the support and kind words from all of you.
one more thing,
i would like to thank coach Kyle from team texas, coach Kynan waggoner from team exposure and Coach Claudiu from evolution climbing team. with out them, our coaching staff would not have happened. truly an honor to work with those guys.
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mistymountainhop
Sep 1, 2005, 7:08 PM
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I guess ya'll are right. Im not a regular at 8a.nu. Most of my info comes from climbing mags, which predominately feature, you guessed it, American climbers when it comes to youth. I admit the fact that i am not too exposed to world youth climbing. Im used to reading about people like zeb enberg and daniel woods, not all the Euro child prodigies. I mean if a 14 y/o here does a v13 we'll most likely hear about it, whereas if it was done in slovenia by a 14 y/o it is most likely not as noted. I def. give props to everyone who participated in the YWC.
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tyson16v
Sep 1, 2005, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: I guess ya'll are right. Im not a regular at 8a.nu. Most of my info comes from climbing mags, which predominately feature, you guessed it, American climbers when it comes to youth. Im used to reading about people like zeb enberg and daniel woods, not all the Euro child prodigies. I still give props to everyone who participated in the YWC.
we are in a bubble over here, the rest of the world is very much more involved in competition climbing, regardless of what rock and ice and climbing say.
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olderic
Sep 1, 2005, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: I guess ya'll are right. Im not a regular at 8a.nu. Most of my info comes from climbing mags, which predominately feature, you guessed it, American climbers when it comes to youth. I admit the fact that i am not too exposed to world youth climbing. Im used to reading about people like zeb enberg and daniel woods, not all the Euro child prodigies. I mean if a 14 y/o here does a v13 we'll most likely hear about it, whereas if it was done in slovenia by a 14 y/o it is most likely not as noted. I def. give props to everyone who participated in the YWC.
http://www.usaclimbing.org/
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devonick
Sep 1, 2005, 9:50 PM
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one day our new zealand climbers will get somewhere, i hope. our problem is not enough publicity here for climbing
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tyson16v
Sep 2, 2005, 1:01 AM
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In reply to: one day our new zealand climbers will get somewhere, i hope. our problem is not enough publicity here for climbing
see you next year.
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sydvicious
Sep 4, 2005, 10:41 PM
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I just want to thank our awesome coaches we had at Worlds. It was a lot of fun, and quite an experience. The US Team did great, I think we were definitely more of a team than in the past. At least from last year to this year I though we were. I got to know way more people on our team this time around.
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tyson16v
Sep 5, 2005, 3:53 AM
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sydney, come climb with me. its time for ABS
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grimpiperx
Sep 5, 2005, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC? oh hello, are you new to the sport?? dude, the europeans have been better than the north americans for decades. the US simply does NOT have the best in the world when it comes to climbing (and many other sports, but now is really not the place for that), deal with it. congrats to all the juniors who competed at this years YWC!!
David Ethan Graham
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edge
Sep 5, 2005, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC? oh hello, are you new to the sport?? dude, the europeans have been better than the north americans for decades. the US simply does NOT have the best in the world when it comes to climbing (and many other sports, but now is really not the place for that), deal with it. congrats to all the juniors who competed at this years YWC!! David Ethan Graham
Dave is a great sport climber and boulderer, for sure. However, I can list quite a few comps where I have seen his butt kicked on plastic.
Grimpiperx, have you seen Dave climb in comps? In Europe? Have you been to Europe? Have you read any Euro climbing mags? Can you read them (they are not in Engrish...)
Do you realize that Dave is too old for Youth Worlds? If you met Dave, would you approach him and gush like a Britney fan, or just let the guy climb?
Please expound on your three word post, keeping in mind that the subject of this post is youth climbing on plastic.
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grimpiperx
Sep 6, 2005, 7:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Wow, us Americans got spanked! I certainly didnt expect to not see any names come in 1st or second. How did these individuals qualify for the YWC? oh hello, are you new to the sport?? dude, the europeans have been better than the north americans for decades. the US simply does NOT have the best in the world when it comes to climbing (and many other sports, but now is really not the place for that), deal with it. congrats to all the juniors who competed at this years YWC!! David Ethan Graham Dave is a great sport climber and boulderer, for sure. However, I can list quite a few comps where I have seen his butt kicked on plastic. Grimpiperx, have you seen Dave climb in comps? In Europe? Have you been to Europe? Have you read any Euro climbing mags? Can you read them (they are not in Engrish...) Do you realize that Dave is too old for Youth Worlds? If you met Dave, would you approach him and gush like a Britney fan, or just let the guy climb? Please expound on your three word post, keeping in mind that the subject of this post is youth climbing on plastic.
I have been to Europe, I frequently visit online European sites, but alas not the Magazines. I realize that Dave is 24 and to old for Youth Worlds. I have met him and did not "gush like a Britney fan", I said "wow, your Dave Graham right?" and shook his hand and lent him my brush for a problem he was on, and talked about humidity. I do also most importantly realize that the original subject was comps, which I know he doesn't fare as well in. But unless it was just being sloppy bustloose did not qualify that, thats why I highlighted, he simply said that we do not have the best in world in terms of climbing. And I simply found this statement odd considering the existence of David Graham. I am not stupid I know he does not tear up(or enter for the most part) comp circuits. But Bustloose, I thought was straying from talking about comp climbing alone.
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fluxus
Sep 7, 2005, 7:25 PM
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Tyson,
I for one look forward to getting the full report from you when you get the chance. Did Iran and Thailand and other Aisan countries send teams? Who looked the most organized and best trained (other than the French)? What countries had the best kids in terms of movement? How were the Chineese as hosts? What did you yourself think of China?
Spray at us with both jets my man!
By the way, I met your roomie at the OR show, really nice guy. I was bummed that you weren't there.
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bustloose
Sep 7, 2005, 7:45 PM
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plastic or not, the US still does not have the best. they have a tiny little handful of extremely talented climbers, but really, on the grand scale, if you're talking 'us' and 'them', the 'them' are 'better'. some of ya'll shouldn't be so surprised when 'non americans' are at the top of the game...
it's good to see the americans and canadians making a good showing at the YWC, considering the size of the talent pool we are pulling from compared to the europeans, it's impressive.
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grimpiperx
Sep 8, 2005, 9:35 PM
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In reply to: plastic or not, the US still does not have the best. they have a tiny little handful of extremely talented climbers, but really, on the grand scale, if you're talking 'us' and 'them', the 'them' are 'better'. some of ya'll shouldn't be so surprised when 'non americans' are at the top of the game... it's good to see the americans and canadians making a good showing at the YWC, considering the size of the talent pool we are pulling from compared to the europeans, it's impressive.
If my post history was looked at one would see that I am not a big USA fan or anything. But I do believe that on rock America does have a world class population of climbers. Bustloose has allready admitted to our "tiny handful of extemely talented climbers"(Chris Sharma, Andy Raether, Tommy&Beth Rodden, Joe Kinder, Daniel Woods, Vasya Vorotnikov, James Litz, Lisa Rands, Justen Sjong, Chris Linder, Lynn Hill, Shawn Diamond, Matt Fultz, Natasha Barnes, Cicada Jenerik, Luke Parady, Paul Robinson, Dean Potter, Jason Khel, Katie Brown, Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham :p) But I still disagree for the most part that with "us vs. them" we would loose. It may be true that if we counted every weekend-warrior gym rat against the Euro's Normal's we might loose, but we really can not argue the point of the average climber(Unless bustloose has been to the majority of the crags of the world interviewing as he went?). But there is some actual fact that backs my opinion. I went to 8a.nu to look at stats, I looked at the top 100 of Routes&Boulders Combined, Routes, and Boulders on the Global top 100 level. This information is allready biased towards the Euros very heavily, because it is a Euro site. I would put good money on a guess that if you walked to your local crag or gym(in the US) the vast moajority of the people would not know about 8a.nu. Nonetheless, America's stats are more than strong. This is what I found: In R&B %31 of the climbers on the top-100 list were American with our closest rival being Spain and Germany having %10 each. The average number of Euro(UK, France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Sweden and dont forget Norway :wink: ) climbers on the top-100 being 4. On routes we were beat by France %25 to %15, but we were still second with 3rd being Spain with %11. On boulders we were in an overwhelming majority; we are %41 with the closest Euro country being Spain at %8 and Germany at %7. In terms of the Boulder score it could be a result of a few things; its true we are powerful, our routes/crags suck or we are cheap(it can not be fear cause we rock trad). I understand that this is not data about "the average climber", but I believe these results back my position that we hold our own easily globally even on a biased site and not including trad.
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tyson16v
Sep 8, 2005, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: Tyson, I for one look forward to getting the full report from you when you get the chance. Did Iran and Thailand and other Aisan countries send teams? Who looked the most organized and best trained (other than the French)? What countries had the best kids in terms of movement? How were the Chineese as hosts? What did you yourself think of China? Spray at us with both jets my man! By the way, I met your roomie at the OR show, really nice guy. I was bummed that you weren't there.
worlds was good. there were quite a few asian team there. singapore, thailand, korea, china, japan, taipei, and quite a few others i didnt know of.
we have no idea over here how amazing they are. the japanese kids were awesome. i believe they sent a total of 5 kids, and 2 of them placed in the top 3. very good group. they were very proffesional. i talked to their coach for a while. they only sent 5 but had a couple dozen that could have qualified. they look at it like the french, if they dont have a chance at the podium, dont send them. and they laugh at speed climbing. we asked them if they had any kids doing it, and they literally started laughing.
the koreans, holy crap. me and some of our kids walked into the back bouldering area to see what the comotion was about. it was a posse of like 20 korean kids sessioning. they were doing campus problems we couldnt do with feet. and most of these kids werent on their team, they were just like the younger brothers and sisters of team members. they are so strong. they have a sixteen year old girl who wins the asian x games and all the big events over there, that literally would crush most if not all our strong "professional" women climbers. she will im sure be big in the world cups soon.
i spent some time talking to the iranian team. they sent 1 or 2 competitors. they were really excited to talk to me. i tried to do my best being a diplomat for us, because of what is going on in the middle east. they were very verbal about how they hated the war and how they hoped that we didnt invade their country too. they are very upset at their government as well. they know that it isnt just us, and they really wanted to make it clear that most iranians want to be friends with the american people. i seriously almost cried while talking to them (the war and our government makes me very upset). i felt very proud to be put in a position where i was able to talk to people like that in that type of gathering where we were all friends. i traded jerseys with them and it was awesome to see an iranian team member running around with a big USAC shirt on. talking to the iranians is somthing i will never forget.
the french looked very organized. their girls were very good. some of their boys were really good too. but the team that impressed me the most was the austrians. they were amazing. very strong and fluid. impecable footwork and body positioning. plus they have david lama. he literally didnt stop climbing except to chalk up. it was like he knew the sequences before hand. i think there is a reason that like 12 people in the top 20 of the UIAA world cup standings train in austria with their coaches.
the russians were very good too. their girls were amazing as well. overall it is hard to say who had the best movement as a team, because each team had some real stars. the japanese and koreans looked the smothest though. i think the french did the best though. they sent 11 kids and 9 made it to finals. that is a pretty good percentage, considering finals is top 8 and there were over 50 in each categorie.
the chinese were awesome hosts. the american team was a big hit. it was nice to be somewhere where being an american didnt warrant negative comments or negative attitudes. in europe the outlook is a little different. :roll: there is a pretty big stereotype, but then i guess we dont really do anything to fix that either.
i loved china. the culture, the people, most of all the history. it was really insane sitting in a temple that was over 1000 years old, and looking at musical instruments from 1800 BC. it is really something i would love to study more. i am going to go back and do somemore traveling there.
i met an american who has lived there for 5 years. he says there is not a lack of rock out there. there is just a lack of people with cars. so it is hard to get to the cliffs and develop areas. but he says the rock is great. limestone, and granite cliffs that go forever.
overall it was an awesome experience. i wouldnt have traded it for anything. its i cool being part of that big scene, the competitors, the coaches, the parents. i had drinks with marco the vice prez of the ICC for christ sake. he was telling stories of his good friend patrick edlinger. to you doug, and as well to me, that is cool. it brought back many memories of when i first started climbing as a kid (snowbird '88 ring a bell?).
climbing is so much older in europe, and so much more grown up. we have a long way to go, but things are looking good for competition climbing in the US and as well the US team.
my hands hurt from typing. later.
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madriver
Sep 8, 2005, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: Coach Claudiu
...did you know that he is a vampire, he can get blood from a stone!
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