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dynoguy
Sep 2, 2005, 5:36 AM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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Where are some goods spots to TR some 10a-d cracks in Yosemite
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kalcario
Sep 2, 2005, 5:54 AM
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Kind of a rare commodity, but right of the Lower Yo Falls is Lazy Bum and Bummer, 10d and c respectively (gotta lead the 60' high 5.7 first pitch of JamcracK Route to get to the tr anchors), Peruvian Flake 10a a few yards from the Ahwahnee parking lot (hike around to the top), stuff at Swan Slab...also there's Gold Dust and Duster, both 10+ over at Chapel Wall, in the shade most of the day but somebody's gotta lead Gold Dust...sorry but the Valley ain't Joshua Tree, it's hard to find stuff you can simply hike to the top of and set up top ropes...
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jorgle
Sep 2, 2005, 6:01 AM
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Registered: Aug 19, 2002
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"Kind of a rare commodity, but right of the Lower Yo Falls is Lazy Bum and Bummer, 10d and c respectively (gotta lead the 60' high 5.7 first pitch of JamcracK Route to get to the tr anchors), "
Those are EXACTLY the ones I was going to recommend. Great routes.
-j
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phylp
Sep 2, 2005, 4:15 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2001
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You can toprope Five and Dime (5.10d) and other routes at Five and Dime Cliff. The approach trail takes you directly to the top of the cliff. Can set up on trees if you have long enough stuff.
One of the best topropes in the Valley is Short Circuit. It's easy to set up a toprope by going around the block and up the easy back side. Gear to set up. The route is rated 11.C but the first move is 5.8, the second move 5.9, there 3rd move 10.a etc!
You can toprope routes at the Little Wing area. This is a gorgeous quiet area with fantastic routes. The 5.7 route on the left, "he can't shout" is worth doing.
You can toprope "transistor Sister" and "Psychic Energy" on the east end of Glacier Point Apron by an easy approach up the right hand side of the rock.
You need to use two ropes to toprope some of these routes, and know how to do a changeover past the knot (or have two people to belay).
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boltdude
Sep 3, 2005, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Other ideas:
Pat & Jack area - lead Nurdle 5.8, TR Sherrie's Crack 10c under the rappel bolts (could also TR Knob Job with trad pro, then move anchor)
Generator 10c ow (polished), Conductor 10d (short but quality)
Highway Star 10a
Mojo Tooth - lead Grape Nuts 5.9 (bring lots of 2" cams, couple 3"), TR 10a and 10d - very steep featured cracks/face
Church Bowl - lead Church Bowl lieback 5.8 (or others), TR Revival 10a fingers
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