|
lumberg
Sep 2, 2005, 9:52 PM
Post #1 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 21
|
What climbs were you sandbagged on the worst? For me:
Trad: Doublecross at Joshua Tree. A helluva great route but definitely not 5.7+ (the rating at the time I climbed it). I think it's 5.8 now or so and I'm still not sure...
Alpine: the chimney above the U-Notch on North Palisade. Supposedly 4th class, according to an ancient guide book. I think it's 5.4 now or so - still not that hard, but not that easy either when you are in mountain boots, are above 13,000 ft, and have essentially no rack.
Can't remember being sandbagged on a sport route.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Sep 2, 2005, 9:55 PM
Post #2 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
Worst sandbag I ever climbed was Diaganol (5.8+) at Crow Hill in MA. 5.8+ my ars! If someone told me it was 5.10+, I would have believed them.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Sep 2, 2005, 9:56 PM
Post #3 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
The only sandbag that pops to mind is Trash Roof out in J-Tree...
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 2, 2005, 9:58 PM
Post #4 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Steck Salathe? 5.9
Sweet
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Sep 2, 2005, 10:02 PM
Post #5 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
thats funny, i thought Doublecross was 5.7, maybe .7+....but then, I waited until I could lead .9/.10a at Josh before I led it, so it felt pretty cruiser.
Lesse....I think Lucky Nuts out here at Red Rock. I thought it was going to be a casual .9 when I got on it and it turned out to feel more like solid .10! I think the new guidebook calls it .10b...
|
|
|
|
|
euthanasia
Sep 2, 2005, 10:09 PM
Post #6 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 127
|
Goldenlocks at the Tennessee Wall. Says it a 5.8+ but it starts with like a v3 start and the top gets pumpy.
|
|
|
|
|
euthanasia
Sep 2, 2005, 10:11 PM
Post #7 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 127
|
Goldenlocks at the Tennessee Wall. Says it a 5.8+ but it starts with like a v3 start and the top gets pumpy.
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Sep 2, 2005, 10:18 PM
Post #8 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
In reply to: Worst sandbag I ever climbed was Diaganol (5.8+) at Crow Hill in MA. 5.8+ my ars! If someone told me it was 5.10+, I would have believed them. Josh
Are you sure that you didn't do Cro Magnon? Diagnol is considerably easier than Cro Magnon, which is only 5.10. Was it wet when you did it?
|
|
|
|
|
jred
Sep 2, 2005, 10:27 PM
Post #9 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2003
Posts: 750
|
Tantalus crack in Squamish, 40 m. of 5.10? off width.
|
|
|
|
|
tadam2000
Sep 2, 2005, 10:33 PM
Post #10 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2004
Posts: 40
|
For me, it was the second (?) pitch of Arches Terrace Direct in the Valley. It's a crack that is 5.7 according to the topo. I have yet to see an flared, overhanging crack that was 5.7. I was solidly leading 5.9 at the time, and could follow 10s, but this crack spit me out like tobacco juice from a redneck. :cry:
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Sep 2, 2005, 10:36 PM
Post #11 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
Thumbdercling, a boulder problem at Swope Park in Kansas City. Maybe I wasn't following the right but damn if that isn't hard for V0,.especially compared to the V3 and V4 on the same face.
d.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Sep 2, 2005, 10:43 PM
Post #12 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Woodson is home of the sandbag. 5.11c covers the spectrum up to and including routes with V5-V6 cruxes.
|
|
|
|
|
maracas
Sep 2, 2005, 10:45 PM
Post #13 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 114
|
Ave Fenix (sport) in Medico´s Wall at La Huasteca (Monterrey). Not the worst in the world, but its my worst ever.
|
|
|
|
|
raymondjeffrey
Sep 2, 2005, 10:52 PM
Post #14 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 361
|
I hung at the 5.6 section on the Becky Route at the Needles. I believe the route is called the 'South Face of the Warlock'. It was 5.6 but since I sucked that day it felt like 5.11+. So to answer the question; that was MY worst episode of being sandbagged. gambler was giggling as he watched me fiddle with a cam then immediatly hang on it when I finally placed it.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Sep 2, 2005, 10:59 PM
Post #15 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
How about the right side of the Remnant in the valley? But maybe 5.7 chimney has a different meaning there.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Sep 2, 2005, 11:02 PM
Post #16 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
Also, and maybe it's technically not a sandbag, but the Tahoe guide book misnamed a route at the Snowshed wall, calling a 5.11d sport climb a 5.9 crack climb. That was a bit suprizing
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Sep 2, 2005, 11:08 PM
Post #17 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
In reply to: How about the right side of the Remnant in the valley? But maybe 5.7 chimney has a different meaning there.
Right side of the Remnant is pretty cruiser. Protecting it is a slightly different issue though.
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Sep 2, 2005, 11:19 PM
Post #18 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
|
In reply to: Goldenlocks at the Tennessee Wall. Says it a 5.8+ but it starts with like a v3 start and the top gets pumpy.
JL
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Sep 3, 2005, 12:03 AM
Post #19 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
hmm, it was probably so difficult for me because it was my first real chimney. go figure
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Sep 3, 2005, 12:06 AM
Post #20 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
One of my first leads at J Tree originaly described in the Wolfe book as a "short beginers route" Damper 5.5 (Now 5.9, and that is a fair rating!)
Don't think either Double Cross or The Clyde variation are unfairly rated either, (at the chimney or higher, the shrund is for sure fifth class!!!). But, then you might ask mohavedesertrat what he thought of the 5.6 I took him up a couple of weeks ago. :wink:
Clyde solo FA's though are almost always called 4th class (especialy in the older guide books)and usualy involve at least some short sections between 5.4 and 5.8.
|
|
|
|
|
scrappydoo
Sep 3, 2005, 12:25 AM
Post #21 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2002
Posts: 139
|
I went climbing with a ropegun buddy this spring a couple weeks after 3 back-to-back on-scene climber fatality missions (I'm on a Mtn. SAR team). I told him I just wanted to get some easy lead mileage in, 5.7's & easy .8's, to get my head back into climbing. Soooo, we go to Eldo (first mistake) and my ropegun buddy was anxious to ramp-up for the summer (second mistake), so he picks out this trad lead for me on a route that's "a little thoughtful but all there"... which is all the beta he gave me.
Turns out it was a 9+S... haven't climbed with him since.
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Sep 3, 2005, 12:28 AM
Post #22 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
In reply to: One of my first leads at J Tree originaly described in the Wolfe book as a "short beginers route" Damper 5.5 (Now 5.9, and that is a fair rating!)
i recently did this route-- not sure how it could ever be called 5.5 or a beginner climb! 5.9 is a fair grade, but I still had to work this one pretty hard!
|
|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Sep 3, 2005, 12:46 AM
Post #23 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
In reply to: In reply to: Goldenlocks at the Tennessee Wall. Says it a 5.8+ but it starts with like a v3 start and the top gets pumpy. That's the first route I thought of when I saw this thread. I've been told the start used to be easier before trail erosion lowered the ground under it. I'm really surprised it wasn't re-rated in the new Dixie Cragger. JL
Nope, it's still 5.8+. That start is nowhere near V3, really. Not even a good boulder problem. The top is only difficult if you can't use your hands and feet in a crack.
Go try the start of Puppy Ride, 5.9 only because of the first 2 moves, and still not hard, but great fun.
|
|
|
|
|
jelliott
Sep 3, 2005, 12:47 AM
Post #24 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2005
Posts: 184
|
O' Kelly's Crack. Nothing like a 11a slopey pod fist jam move to start a 10c
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Sep 3, 2005, 12:50 AM
Post #25 of 68
(8119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
The first 10 feet don't count at J Tree :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
