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moonshine505
Sep 8, 2005, 8:32 PM
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maybe one of fred's new lines in hueco. the one to the left of diaphanous sea is unrated and didn't even look climbable to me...and he wants to add a sit start to it. Graham considers Freaks of Industry to be V13, for whatever that's worth.
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bvb
Sep 8, 2005, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: surely there's a problem that actually has a rating and that is harder than that stupid piton scar crack
well. the question what is/are the hardest boulder problem/s?
i would say that the hardest problems are the ones that somebody does, and then nobody else can repeat. this is the simplest definition...in the same way that the fastest 100 meter sprinter would be the guy that has the fastest time, and nobody can beat it.
the easiest way to quantify a bp's difficulty would be to get the 50 or so of the world's burliest boulderers, and have them try the hard lines. the fewer who can do it, the harder it is. this is a simple and effective way to quantify difficulty. "grades", such as they are, are irrelevent, subjective and meaningless when compared to the "how many repeats?" scale.
the nose, for example. hardest free route on el cap. and it will stay that way until it gets a few proper repeats.
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grimpiperx
Sep 8, 2005, 9:50 PM
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In reply to: I think Spectre is a 13, FA to Graham
Also both reapters(Fred Nicole and Tony Lamiche) rated it V14
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refugee
Sep 8, 2005, 10:57 PM
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so Spectre is CA's hardest, established boulder problem?
by the way, i don't think too many people are lining up to do the second ascent of that jump-start piton crack on the practice aid boulder
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caughtinside
Sep 8, 2005, 11:04 PM
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Isn't it Witness the Dredlocks?
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climberjo
Sep 9, 2005, 1:03 AM
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Witness the Fitness
I tihnk that is probably the hardest right now according to sharma
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bvb
Sep 9, 2005, 1:03 AM
Post #32 of 129
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In reply to: so Spectre is CA's hardest, established boulder problem? by the way, i don't think too many people are lining up to do the second ascent of that jump-start piton crack on the practice aid boulder
no dipshit, sasquatch is harder than spectre by whole orders of magnitude.
and maybe nobody is lining up to try it 'cause they prefer not to get their asses handed to them.
do you see people lining up to solo astroman? no? guess that makes astroman CHOSS.
http://www.saturation.org/...ives/cash_finger.jpg
sukit, n00b
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lvclimbingbum
Sep 9, 2005, 1:18 AM
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what about that new problem that sharma sent in alabama or something. it was like a 60 foot horizontal roof that looked awesome. peace out.
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grimpiperx
Sep 9, 2005, 2:02 AM
Post #34 of 129
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In reply to: In reply to: so Spectre is CA's hardest, established boulder problem? by the way, i don't think too many people are lining up to do the second ascent of that jump-start piton crack on the practice aid boulder no s---, sasquatch is harder than spectre by whole orders of magnitude. and maybe nobody is lining up to try it 'cause they prefer not to get their asses handed to them. do you see people lining up to solo astroman? no? guess that makes astroman CHOSS. http://www.saturation.org/...ives/cash_finger.jpg sukit, n00b
I am not saying that Sasquach is not really hard but first off it is an odd line to call a boulder problem, although it may technically be. Does Dean Potter have a long history of sending V14 or harder? I think that given the fact that it is not graded, Dean Potter(while being an amazing climber) isnt exactly a V14 machine and that the problem is a crack, that Spectre would be harder. Hard boulder's would probally not get on it because its a crack. Also how are supposed to curse at poeple saying saquach is harder when you have climbed....... neither? I know I haven't either so save your breath, but I have good reasons for my belief.
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rainontin
Sep 9, 2005, 2:35 AM
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The hardest problem in the US of A? Finding cheap gas...
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alex234
Sep 9, 2005, 2:42 AM
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anybody know where in northwest ct that dave graham put up that v14
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bvb
Sep 9, 2005, 3:55 AM
Post #38 of 129
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In reply to: I am not saying that Sasquach is not really hard but first off it is an odd line to call a boulder problem, although it may technically be.
yo grimpy, i'm gonna go out on a really big limb here...lemme guess...you've been boldering 10 years or less, and bolder primarily on overhanging face problems. i'm also gonna guess you've never been to the valley, and have never tried sasquatch. i tried it off and on for 20 years...never getting more than a move or two off the ground.
it IS a bolder problem. not "technically", as you insist, but, you know, like for real. one that beat back the best efforts of generations of american bolderers. like every other hard, high, badass crack problem in the world, it's just fucking hard. simply because it does not fit your extremely limited idea of what a bolder problem is ("....uhhhh, did sharma send it? what did davey think of it? gnarly, dude!) does nothing to diminish it's status as one of the hardest boulder problems, ever.
learn your history before you spray. better yet, go back to whatever rock gym you crawled out of before you bought a pad and decided to come outside.
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fracture
Sep 9, 2005, 4:31 AM
Post #39 of 129
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In reply to: and maybe nobody is lining up to try it 'cause they prefer not to get their asses handed to them.
Or it could be because... it's a crack.
(Where's kalcario at when you need 'im?).
:P
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refugee
Sep 9, 2005, 5:47 AM
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I just think that it's bull shit that this problem was never rated, and was first ascended by someone who is not a boulderer in the strict sense. However, it gets all this street cred because it's a highly visible and well-known problem that has been tried by strong climbers for years...I mean, it got all the attention because it used to be an aid practice station, and then people thought it might be freed...But has it been tried by, say, Moffatt or anyone like that who actually has some v14s (the grade everyone seems perfectly content to give sasquatch) under their belt.
Not that I don't want to fellate Dean Potter like bvb desperately does...I'm just saying that it seems bullshit to call it California's hardest boulder problem when it's a) not rated b) climbed by a non-elite boulderer c) and simply famous b/c of its roots as a practice aid climb that people half-heartedly tried to free every now and then...
something just doesn't add up for me
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yanqui
Sep 9, 2005, 3:31 PM
Post #41 of 129
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Curt and bvb: you guys are such a crack up.
I've been kinda missing those exchanges between Curt and Kalcario:
Kalcario: Rabbit season
Curt: Duck season
Kalcario: Rabbit season
Curt: Duck season
Kalcario: Rabbit season
Curt: Rabbit season
Kalcario: Duck season
At which point Elmer Fudd takes aim at Kalcario and shoots, blowing his duck bill around to the back side of his head. Kalcario then straightens out his bill and stalks off grumbling.
And now it looks like refugee wants to play Daffy Duck to bvb's Bugs Bunny. High comedy indeed.
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bvb
Sep 9, 2005, 6:38 PM
Post #42 of 129
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In reply to: I just think that it's bull s--- that this problem was never rated, and was first ascended by someone who is not a boulderer in the strict sense.
i'm almost afraid to ask...but what, exactly, is your definition of a "boulderer in the strictest sense?"
is ron kauk a boulderer? chris sharma? john bachar? mark wilford? if you boulder a lot, but also do walls, long/hard/free routes, indian creek splitters, maybe some ice, does that mean you are not a boulderer any more?
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bvb
Sep 9, 2005, 6:40 PM
Post #43 of 129
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In reply to: Curt and bvb: you guys are such a crack up.
we do what we can for the good of the group.
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bvb
Sep 9, 2005, 6:42 PM
Post #44 of 129
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In reply to: Not that I don't want to fellate Dean Potter
ummm...i though were we talking about a boulder problem, not a person, but if you want him that bad have at it. i'm into girls, myself.
waitaminnit...are you a girl??
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nicklikesfire
Sep 9, 2005, 7:44 PM
Post #45 of 129
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In reply to: anybody know where in northwest ct that dave graham put up that v14
I too would like to know. (Also, Do you ever go bouldering with the Simsbury EMS crew?)
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grimpiperx
Sep 9, 2005, 7:53 PM
Post #46 of 129
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In reply to: yo grimpy, i'm gonna go out on a really big limb here...lemme guess...you've been boldering 10 years or less, and bolder primarily on overhanging face problems. i'm also gonna guess you've never been to the valley, and have never tried sasquatch. i tried it off and on for 20 years...never getting more than a move or two off the ground. it IS a bolder problem. not "technically", as you insist, but, you know, like for real. one that beat back the best efforts of generations of american bolderers. like every other hard, high, badass crack problem in the world, it's just fucking hard. simply because it does not fit your extremely limited idea of what a bolder problem is ("....uhhhh, did sharma send it? what did davey think of it? gnarly, dude!) does nothing to diminish it's status as one of the hardest boulder problems, ever. learn your history before you spray. better yet, go back to whatever rock gym you crawled out of before you bought a pad and decided to come outside.
It's not much of limb to go out on to guess that a 17 year old has been bouldering for less than 10 years, you are correct but what the hell does that mean? I do prefer overhanging face but once agian this is irrelevant I am sure I am not alone when I say a crack is not your standard boulder problem. In reply to: i tried it off and on for 20 years...never getting more than a move or two off the ground. In reply to: simply because it does not fit your extremely limited idea of what a bolder problem is ("....uhhhh, did sharma send it? what did davey think of it? gnarly, dude!) does nothing to diminish it's status as one of the hardest boulder problems, ever.
In reply to: better yet, go back to whatever rock gym you crawled out of before you bought a pad and decided to come outside. |
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nowinowski
Sep 9, 2005, 8:00 PM
Post #47 of 129
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Registered: Sep 5, 2003
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i couldn't help but notice you live in Maryland. Have you ever been to California? Maybe you should stick to your areas of expertise -- Annapolis rocks, the gym, Ilchester, the other gyms.
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grimpiperx
Sep 9, 2005, 8:08 PM
Post #48 of 129
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In reply to: i couldn't help but notice you live in Maryland. Have you ever been to California? Maybe you should stick to your areas of expertise -- Annapolis rocks, the gym, Ilchester, the other gyms.
Ha, ha your stupid. I have climbed problems in California and Canada and what not. You really should not post if you have no clue what your talking about.
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nowinowski
Sep 9, 2005, 8:13 PM
Post #49 of 129
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my bad you sent a v1 in squamish and took a bunch of pics of some bouldering studs you've got my vote for boulderer of the year. cheers.
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grimpiperx
Sep 9, 2005, 8:53 PM
Post #50 of 129
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In reply to: my bad you sent a v1 in squamish and took a bunch of pics of some bouldering studs you've got my vote for boulderer of the year. cheers.
Yes, because my pics reveal all the problems I've done...multiple V4s in a few hours in both Cali and Canada. But regardless My ability to send nor my expertise is relevant to my arguement, You can use logic and knowledge to argue so my expertise being in gyms doesn't make my arguement invalid or flawed.
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