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curt


Sep 11, 2005, 11:43 PM
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...Measuring how "hard" things are purely based on repeats is nonsense. There are plenty of unrepeated easy climbs, and things won't be repeated if no one capable really cares enough to try (cf. the Holloway problems Curt is always on about).

Except that those problems: AHR, Meathook, Slapshot and Sasquatch have all been attempted by many great boulderers and climbers--and they are still unrepeated. So, it's pretty safe to assume they are each of high difficulty.

Curt


feanor007


Sep 11, 2005, 11:44 PM
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the easiest way to quantify a bp's difficulty would be to get the 50 or so of the world's burliest boulderers, and have them try the hard lines. the fewer who can do it, the harder it is. this is a simple and effective way to quantify difficulty. "grades", such as they are, are irrelevent, subjective and meaningless when compared to the "how many repeats?" scale.

greatest rating system ever


fracture


Sep 11, 2005, 11:50 PM
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...Measuring how "hard" things are purely based on repeats is nonsense. There are plenty of unrepeated easy climbs, and things won't be repeated if no one capable really cares enough to try (cf. the Holloway problems Curt is always on about).

Except that those problems: AHR, Meathook, Slapshot and Sasquatch have all been attempted by many great boulderers and climbers--and they are still unrepeated. So, it's pretty safe to assume they are each of high difficulty.

Assuming they are of high difficulty is significantly different from assuming they are the hardest problems in the world/country/etc.

Do you know if Fred Nichole or Klem Loskot (et al) have tried the Holloway problems?


feanor007


Sep 11, 2005, 11:50 PM
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[irony]

the front page photo when i logged in
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...st_start=16&id=59758

yep, just a shot of one washed up traddie taken by another

[/irony]


grimpiperx


Sep 11, 2005, 11:54 PM
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The fact that fewer top climbers are interested in crack climbing means a smaller talent pool focusing on that sub-genre. The result is that the most cutting edge crack climbs in the world are not nearly as hard as the most cutting edge overhang/face routes.

I am about as far from a traddie as you can get, but this is s---!

*Crack (trad) climbing has been around a lot longer than sport, so it has been evolving for a much longer time
*The talent pool is smaller because fewer people are physically able to pull down on hard cracks
*Look at people like Beth Rodden and Lynn Hill, who are accomplished at both trad and sport style climbs - their hardest trad and sport climbs are both around 5.14a/b
*Lynn Hill's free route up the nose has thrown off the best sport climbers for decades
*Tommy caldwell, who has climbed some of the hardest, scariest trad lines in the world has climbed unconfirmed 5.15 sport


What best sport climber's have been on it? Patxi, Graham, Puigblanque, Piccolo, Bereziartu, Simpson, Sharma, Moon, Mrazek, Bindhammer? Yea, the grades of Lynn and Beth's hardest climbs are being onsighted, 6 in a year, 2 in a day. Yea thats why Tommy is awsome as shit, but his 5.15a wasn't a crack.


curt


Sep 12, 2005, 12:14 AM
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...Measuring how "hard" things are purely based on repeats is nonsense. There are plenty of unrepeated easy climbs, and things won't be repeated if no one capable really cares enough to try (cf. the Holloway problems Curt is always on about).

Except that those problems: AHR, Meathook, Slapshot and Sasquatch have all been attempted by many great boulderers and climbers--and they are still unrepeated. So, it's pretty safe to assume they are each of high difficulty.

Assuming they are of high difficulty is significantly different from assuming they are the hardest problems in the world/country/etc.

Do you know if Fred Nichole or Klem Loskot (et al) have tried the Holloway problems?

I have no idea. However Ben Moon, author of several V13 or so boulder problems has tried the Holloway problems as has Jerry Moffat. Fred would have no chance at Slapshot, but I suspect he could give the others a good go.

Curt


rainontin


Sep 12, 2005, 12:33 AM
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Slapshot is a one move wonder. Hardly a masterpiece of bouldering history.


bvb


Sep 12, 2005, 12:38 AM
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Hale-Bopp is a one move wonder. Hardly a masterpiece of bouldering history.

then why the fuck was fred and the mainstream climbing press so psyched on it? and why did we have to read about it and look at pics of it in all the mags for months on end?

why has it been repeated so fucking many times, while slapshot remains inviolate after so many years?

huh? eh? say what?


bvb


Sep 12, 2005, 12:42 AM
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this is sort of off-topic, but if somebody could vote a "2" on this pic of washed-up has-been never-was curt on this lame v-easy one-move-wonder dyno, i'd appreciate it.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=59758


bensnyder


Sep 12, 2005, 12:43 AM
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What best sport climber's have been on it? Patxi, Graham, Puigblanque, Piccolo, Bereziartu, Simpson, Sharma, Moon, Mrazek, Bindhammer? Yea, the grades of Lynn and Beth's hardest climbs are being onsighted, 6 in a year, 2 in a day.

Ah Im too lazy to muster another response. I see your point and its definitly legitimate, but I'm sticking to my guns.

Happy climbing...


curt


Sep 12, 2005, 12:46 AM
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Slapshot is a one move wonder. Hardly a masterpiece of bouldering history.

It can be both, n00b.

Curt


Partner mr8615


Sep 12, 2005, 12:56 AM
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[HIJACK OF A HIJACK]

I have a friend who climbs 5.12 sport routes, last weekend he got slaughtered on a 5.9 handcrack that I routinely walk up. It made me happy. Face it, crack climbing is just harder, that's why you pussy 'sport-only' climbers suck at it.

[/HIJACK OF A HIJACK]


bvb


Sep 12, 2005, 1:00 AM
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[HIJACK OF A HIJACK]

I have a friend who climbs 5.12 sport routes, last weekend he got slaughtered on a 5.9 handcrack that I routinely walk up. It made me happy. Face it, crack climbing is just harder, that's why you sissy 'sport-only' climbers suck at it.

[/HIJACK OF A HIJACK]

werd. 8615, an OG.

the resta u punkass n00bs can SUKIT.

d u knot no whut teh stanTARDS r??


curt


Sep 12, 2005, 1:02 AM
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I love that picture. You can't even see all the used condoms and hypodermic needles that make the landing dicey.

Curt


bvb


Sep 12, 2005, 1:08 AM
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I love that picture.
i'll make you a nice 8.5 X 11 print if you blow me.


curt


Sep 12, 2005, 1:10 AM
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I love that picture.
i'll make you a nice 8.5 X 11 print if you blow me.

You'll do it anyway; you're easy.

Curt


grimpiperx


Sep 12, 2005, 1:39 AM
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[HIJACK OF A HIJACK]

I have a friend who climbs 5.12 sport routes, last weekend he got slaughtered on a 5.9 handcrack that I routinely walk up. It made me happy. Face it, crack climbing is just harder, that's why you sissy 'sport-only' climbers suck at it.

[/HIJACK OF A HIJACK]


But do you climb 5.12 sport? Your example is supposed to be an arguement? what is this a troll?


bvb


Sep 12, 2005, 1:45 AM
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what is this a troll?
dick tracy in teh hizzzouse


onacliff


Sep 30, 2005, 4:49 PM
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I have a ton of respect for Dean Potter's climbing skills. But didn't he just recently do a 5.13+/14- trad route (conception) that he worked for YEARS to do? That is equivelent to what, a V9 boulder problem? That 13+/14- trad route was a CRACK. Yes, a crack climb...gasp, does that mean that maybe it was in his style??? So then what makes you think that he is doing 20 foot boulder problems that push V14?? Thats 5 number grades. So I have climbed 11 crack climbs...does that mean that I can climb V8 or V9 cracks? That would be pretty nice, wouldn't it. I'd love to see dean try to pull of the ground on some of the cutting edge problems in RMNP or hueco or bishop, let alone climb them.

Conclusions: Sasquatch=really f-in hard
Cutting edge problems =way f-in harder
Slapshot=overhyped and probably V12 or V13 max (my understanding was that dave graham worked it but backed off because he was afraid he was going to pull off a key hold, could be wrong) which is really hard but not harder than some of the new stuff going up so it is not the hardest


curt


Sep 30, 2005, 4:56 PM
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Slapshot=overhyped and probably V12 or V13 max (my understanding was that dave graham worked it but backed off because he was afraid he was going to pull off a key hold, could be wrong) which is really hard but not harder than some of the new stuff going up so it is not the hardest

In other words, Dave Graham didn't do the problem. Since nobody but Jim Holloway has done Slapshot, what gives you the ability to accurately rate it? Jesus, give me a break.

Curt


moonshine505


Sep 30, 2005, 5:05 PM
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Let's face it, Curt has conviced at least myself, and dare I say everyone on this site, that Jim Holloway is the best boulderer that will ever walk the face of this earth and that no one will ever climb anything remotely as hard as slapshot. I don't want to speak for anyone else, so feel free to disagree with me, but I'm fairly sure I've summed up the collective opinion.


superbum


Sep 30, 2005, 6:10 PM
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First off, I am NOT saying I am a v13 climber, or even a v10 climber, but I do know this:

I have sat underneath both the Mandala and Spectre and even fondled the holds and I have to say that the mandala looks doable (someday...) while I believe I will never have a solid chance at doing even the first move on Spectre. Ridiculous reaches on STEEP slippery shit to big holds that are turned the wrong way. It might be "easier" but god damn! Have you seen that thing?

It's all about your climbing style. That said, I am still working on Soulslinger so it will be a while for me...


eddie_munster


Oct 1, 2005, 4:59 AM
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I have sat underneath both the Mandala and Spectre and even fondled the holds and I have to say that the mandala looks doable (someday...) while I believe I will never have a solid chance at doing even the first move on Spectre.

um, let's just say that if you can't do the first move on spectre, that you will have no chance on the mandala...


superbum


Oct 1, 2005, 5:42 AM
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I have sat underneath both the Mandala and Spectre and even fondled the holds and I have to say that the mandala looks doable (someday...) while I believe I will never have a solid chance at doing even the first move on Spectre.

um, let's just say that if you can't do the first move on spectre, that you will have no chance on the mandala...

I disagree...two very distinct styles of problems. Have you physically seen these routes and/or people working them? (just curious, not being an ass) Yes, there is a large Dynamic move on the Mandala, but it is much more vertical with crimpy holds. You can get much power from your legs. Spectre on the other hand is VERY steep and requires huge reaches along with extreme core/body tension. Those types of moves are harder for me as I don't have big power, or big muscles but do have strong fingers and good footwork.

In the end, reality comes calling and says I have YEARS to go before I even stop to put my pad down beneath either of these two classics.


skinner


Oct 1, 2005, 1:31 PM
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In other words, Dave Graham didn't do the problem. Since nobody but Jim Holloway has done Slapshot, what gives you the ability to accurately rate it? Jesus, give me a break.

Curt

errmm well said,
but damn it's hard to take anything you say seriously every since you added that spandex/lycra photo to your profile!

BTW.. is that a one-peice suit?

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