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despair_faction
Aug 20, 2005, 5:36 AM
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I am currently looking for a second shoe that can be used for both climbing and bouldering competitions. I have been climbing for about 8 months and recommendations from friends include the new Galileo and the V10. If I am looking for a shoe that can last long, edge well, as well as heel hook perfectly, which one of these should I buy? Or are there better alternatives to my problem? :shock:
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rainontin
Sep 16, 2005, 12:18 AM
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5.10 isn't the way to go if you want something that lasts...V10s are not the best heel hookers. I would highly recommend the Galileos
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pumpkins
Sep 16, 2005, 12:49 AM
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In reply to: 5.10 isn't the way to go if you want something that lasts...
oh boy...my galileos saw 9 ascents on 3diff types of rock this weekend on some harsh harsh rock no doubt and not a scratch on them babies, smearing, smaking, edging, whatever u dream they felt...not made to last...taboot.. you might try wearing a pair before u say something like that, and these are like the 3rd week ive been climbing in them..but only time will tell for sure
As for ur ques. Des. i dont know anything about v10s but im prefectly statisfied with my Gal. only problem is the toe box is a little bigger than im used to, makes busting in on those micro indentations a little bit sketchier but it can be done, v. comfy too
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rainontin
Sep 16, 2005, 1:06 AM
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In reply to: you might try wearing a pair before u say something like that, and these are like the 3rd week ive been climbing in them..but only time will tell for sure
Hmmm..."these things are so durable, but only time will tell if they are durable..." And for the record, withstanding 9 ascents in one weekend hardly qualifies as being built to last. I was speaking more towards the build quality of 5.10 shoes, not how long their new rubber lasts. You must also have missed the part where I recommened the Galileos...
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stratman05
Sep 16, 2005, 1:32 AM
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they are two completely differant shoes....
The v10's are a tight as heck slipper that suck for heel hooks. They are down turned, but flatten out.
The gallileos are like the anasazi...but the heels suck even more (like the T-Rock).
I would look at the Evolv Predator or Evolv Agro's. The Agro's are a great slipper that do not stretch out like the V10's. The predators are just like the dragons.
I would also look at the La Sportiva Venom's...people rave about those.
Really, try anything. If they fit your feet great, get them. A lot of guys like the womans Anasazi velcroe's.
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pumpkins
Sep 16, 2005, 1:38 AM
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well considering 5.10 makes Gal, and that they still look like there right out of the box i would say 5.10 makes a pretty durable, if not one of the most durable shoes
As for build quailty, i had a friend decending, whom was climbing for the first time scrapping the bottoms and even the top part down the side of the mtn for about 80ft (happened 3 times), my face looking like someone was dragging a nail across a piece of iron, when i looked at them not a mark had been made
Build quality...u be the judge
in truth though they do suck for heel hooks, but they will last u if u try them, i would do what the man above said and look at the venoms, those puppies are high geere, make u climb like an antalope
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rainontin
Sep 16, 2005, 1:48 AM
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Antelope??? Last time I saw one of those I was in the middle of the Great Plains...
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scuclimber
Sep 17, 2005, 7:35 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
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In reply to: well considering 5.10 makes Gal, and that they still look like there right out of the box i would say 5.10 makes a pretty durable, if not one of the most durable shoes As for build quailty, i had a friend decending, whom was climbing for the first time scrapping the bottoms and even the top part down the side of the mtn for about 80ft (happened 3 times), my face looking like someone was dragging a nail across a piece of iron, when i looked at them not a mark had been made Build quality...u be the judge in truth though they do suck for heel hooks, but they will last u if u try them, i would do what the man above said and look at the venoms, those puppies are high geere, make u climb like an antalope
STFU noob!!!!1 :twisted: You are more dense than Ron Jeremy's chest hair. Do us all a favor and prove the durability of your Galileos by down-climbing into a pit of poisonous snakes.
To the OP: Slippers suck for heel hooking. The Galileos are sick shoes, if they fit my feet I would probably own a pair (and with my prodeal they'd be 50% off :twisted: ), despite knowing they wouldn't last as long as a pair of Evolvs for example.
Colin
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crimp2bfree
Sep 17, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
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Build quality has more to do with stitching, and sole/rand gluing construction than if the rubber is durable. Basicly, when the rubber is gone, is the shoe worth resoling? 5.10 does not have the best reputation for durable construction. The lining seperated and pulled from my anastazis. Their heels also suck for almost anyone I have ever met. I don't know why they don't fix it. The women's anastazi with Onyx rubber would be sweet because the heel is supposed to be better on those.
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